Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Territorial delimitation of viticultural “Oltrepo Pavese (Lombardy)” using grape ripening precocity

Territorial delimitation of viticultural “Oltrepo Pavese (Lombardy)” using grape ripening precocity

Abstract

[English version below]

L’Oltrepò Pavese est une zone de collines de la Lombardie, région située au nord de l’Italie avec un vignoble qui s’étend sur près de 15 000 ha. Cette zone représente la plus grande aire de production de la région et une des A.O.C. les plus étendues de tout le pays. Les cépages les plus cultivés, même historiquement, sont autochtones : la Barbera et la Croatina utilisés pour la production de vin rouge «Oltrepò» et le Pinot noir pour la production de vins mousseux. Pour le zonage viticole de cette A.O.C., il a été pris en considération: le climat, les sols, les caractéristiques viti-vinicoles. L’étude pédologique effectuée sur le vignoble a permis de réaliser une carte des sols à l’échelle 1/25000. Pour l’étude viticole, il a été choisi 80 parcelles de références représentatives des sols, du climat et des conditions agronomiques. Sur toutes les parcelles pendant trois ans (1999, 2000, 2001), des données sur la production, sur la vigueur, sur la maturation et sur la composition des moûts ont été récoltées. Pendant la vendange, un échantillon représentatif de raisin a été récolté pour les microvinifications de chaque parcelle. Les vins ont été étudiés chimiquement et aussi soumis à des tests d’analyse sensorielle. L’approche multidisciplinaire a permis de caractériser l’appellation en zone adaptée à produire un vin de base Pinot noir et une zone différente plus apte à la production d’un vin rouge moderne et de qualité. Avec l’élaboration statistique des données cumulées des trois années des courbes de maturation, il a été possible de subdiviser les parcelles en classe de précocité et observer qu’avec une véraison plus précoce correspondrait aussi une meilleure accumulation des sucres au moment de la récolte. Pour les vins rouges, les facteurs influençant le plus la précocité se trouvent être l’altitude, la capacité de drainage des sols et la P.A.R., alors que pour le pinot noir l’altitude et la composition des sols jouent un rôle plus important. Des différences statistiques significatives se sont révélées sur les paramètres végétatifs, productifs et qualitatifs des moûts, sur le contenu polyphénolique du raisin et sur les profils chimiques et sensoriels des vins produits par microvinification.

Oltrepò Pavese is a hilly area of Lombardy, a region located in northern Italy with a vineyard surface of approximately 15.000 ha. It represents the widest viticultural area of all the region and one of the most extended zones of Origin’s Denomination of all the country. The mainly grown varieties, also from the historical point of view, are the autochthonous Barbera and Croatina used for the production of the Red wine Oltrepo and Pinot noir used for the sparkling wine. For the viticultural zoning of the area, climate, soils, viticulture and enological properties have been characterised. The pedological survey carried out in the vineyards allowed to produce a soil map on a scale of 1 :25.000. For the viticultural survey, 80 trial sites, representative of the soil, climate and agronomic condition have been chosen. In all the site for three years (’99, ’00 and 2001) grapevine yield, vegetative growth, maturation curves and must composition were detected. At vintage, an adequate grape sample was gathered for microvinification. Wines were evaluated both by chemical and sensorial analysis. A multidisciplinary approach allowed to characterise the area in different zones adapted to produce sparkling Pinot noir wine and in zones of different suitability in order to produce a modern style premium red wine. By a statistical data processing of the three years maturation curves it was possible to subdivide the vineyards in precocity classes and to observe that an earlier veraison generally corresponded also to an high sugar accumulation at the moment of grape harvest. For red wines the mainly influencing factors regarding the precocity turned out to be altitude, the soil ability to water-drainage and the P.A.R. availability (photosynthetically active radiation) while for Pinot noir altitude and soil texture played the most important role. Statistical significant differences in growth, yield and quality have been found on musts composition, on polyphenols content of the grapes and on the chemical and sensorial profile of wines produced by microvinifications.

DOI:

Publication date: February 15, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2002

Type: Article

Authors

Brancadoro L., Toninato L., Tamai G., Failla O., Peluso F., Mariani L., Minelli R., Scienza A.

Université di Milano – Dipartimento di Produzione Vegetale – Via Celoria 2, 20133 Milano, Italy

Contact the author

Keywords

analyse sensorielle, capacité de drainage, courbes de maturation, microvinification, P.A.R.
maturation curves, microvinifications, P.A.R., sensorial analysis, water-drainage

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2002

Citation

Related articles…

Impact on leaf morphology of Vitis vinifera L. cvs Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon under Free Air Carbon dioxide Enrichment (FACE)

Atmospheric carbon dioxide (CO2) concentration has continuously increased since pre-industrial times from 280 ppm in 1750, and is predicted to exceed 700 ppm by the end of 21st century. For most of C3 plant species elevated CO2 (eCO2) improve photosynthetic apparatus results in an increased plant biomass production. To investigate the effects of eCO2 on morphological leaf characteristics the two Vitis vinifera L. cultivars, Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon, grown in the Geisenheim VineyardFACE (Free Air Carbon dioxide Enrichment) system were used. The FACE site is located at Geisenheim University (49° 59′ N, 7° 57′ E, 94 m above sea level), Germany and was implemented in 2014 comparing future atmospheric CO2-concentrations (eCO2, predicted for the mid-21st century) with current ambient CO2-conditions (aCO2). Experiments were conducted under rain-fed conditions for two consecutive years (2015 and 2016). Six leaves per repetition of the CO2 treatment were sampled in the field and immediately fixed in a FAA solution (ethanol, H2O, formaldehyde and glacial acetic acid). After 24 h leaf samples were transferred and stored in an ethanol solution. Subsequently, leaf tissue was dehydrated using ethanol series and embedded in paraffin. By using a rotary microtomesections of 5 µm were prepared and fixed on microscopic slides. Subsequent the samples were stained using consecutive staining and washing solutions. Afterwards pictures of the leaf cross-sections were taken using a light microscope and consecutive measurements were conducted with an open source image software. Differences found in leaf cross-sections of the two CO2 treatments were detected for the palisade parenchyma. Leaf thickness, upper and lower epidermis and spongy parenchyma remained less affected under eCO2 conditions. The observed results within grapevine leaf tissues can provide first insights to seasonal adaptation strategies of grapevines under future elevated CO2 concentrations.

‘Cabernet Sauvignon’ (Vitis vinifera L.) berry skin flavonol and anthocyanin composition is affected by trellis systems and applied water amounts

Trellis systems are selected in wine grape vineyards to mainly maximize vineyard yield and maintain berry quality. This study was conducted in 2020 and 2021 to evaluate six commonly utilized trellis systems including a vertical shoot positioning (VSP), two relaxed VSPs (VSP60 and VSP80), a single high wire (SH), a high quadrilateral (HQ), and a guyot (GY), combined with three levels of irrigation regimes based on different crop evapotranspiration (ETc) replacements, including a 25% ETc, 50% ETc, and 100% ETc. The results indicated SH yielded the most fruits and accumulated the most total soluble solids (TSS) at harvest in 2020, however, it showed the lowest TSS in the second season. In 2020, SH and HQ showed higher concentrations in most of the anthocyanin derivatives compared to the VSPs. Similar comparisons were noticed in 2021 as well. SH and HQ also accumulated more flavonols in both years compared to other trellis systems. Overall, this study provides information on the efficacy of trellis systems on grapevine yield and berry flavonoid accumulation in a currently warming climate.

Climate ethnography and wine environmental futures

Globalisation and climate change have radically transformed world wine production upsetting the established order of wine ecologies. Ecological risks and the future of traditional agricultural systems are widely debated in anthropology, but very little is understood of the particular challenges posed by climate change to viticulture which is seen by many as the canary in the coalmine of global agriculture. Moreover, wine as a globalised embedded commodity provides a particularly telling example for the study of climate change having already attracted early scientific attention. Studies of climate change in viticulture have focused primarily on the production of systematic models of adaptation and vulnerability, while the human and cultural factors, which are key to adaptation and sustainable futures, are largely missing. Climate experts have been unanimous in recognising the urgent need for a better understanding of the complex dynamics that shape how climate change is experienced and responded to by human systems. Yet this call has not yet been addressed. Climate ethnography, coined by the anthropologist Susan Crate (2011), aims to bridge this growing disjuncture between climate science and everyday life through the exploration of the social meaning of climate change. It seeks to investigate the confrontation of its social salience in different locations and under different environmental guises (Goodman 2018: 340). By understanding how wine producers make sense of the world (and the environment) and act in it, it proposes to focus on the co-production of interdisciplinary knowledge by identifying and foreshadowing problems (Goodman 2018: 342; Goodman & Marshall 2018). It seeks to offer an original, transformative and contrasted perspective to climate change scenarios by investigating human agency -individual or collective- in all its social, political and cultural diversity. An anthropological approach founded on detailed ethnographies of wine production is ideally placed to address economic, social and cultural disruptions caused by the emergence of these new environmental challenges. Indeed, the community of experts in environmental change have recently called for research that will encompass the human dimension and for more broad-based, integrated through interdisciplinarity, useful knowledge (Castree & al 2014). My paper seeks to engage with climate ethnography and discuss what it brings to the study of wine environmental futures while exploring the limitations of the anthropological environmental approach.

Estimating bulk stomatal conductance of grapevine canopies

In response to changes in their environment, grapevines regulate transpiration using various physiological mechanisms that alter conductance of water through the soil-plant-atmosphere continuum. Expressed as bulk stomatal conductance at the canopy scale, it varies diurnally in response to changes in vapor pressure deficit and net radiation, and over the season to changes in soil water deficits and hydraulic conductivity of both soil and plant. It is necessary to characterize the response of conductance to these variables to better model how vine transpiration also responds to these variables. Furthermore, to be relevant for vineyard-scale modeling, conductance is best characterized using data collected in a vineyard setting. Applying a crop canopy energy flux model developed by Shuttleworth and Wallace, bulk stomatal conductance was estimated using measurements of individual vine sap flow, temperature and humidity within the vine canopy, and estimates of net radiation absorbed by the vine canopy. These measurements were taken on several vines in a non-irrigated vineyard in Bordeaux France, using equipment that did not interfere with ongoing vineyard operations. An inverted Penman-Monteith equation was then used to calculate bulk stomatal conductance on 15-minute intervals from July to mid-September 2020. Time-series plots show significant diurnal variation and seasonal decreases in conductance, with overall values similar to those in the literature. Global sensitivity analysis using non-parametric regression found transpiration flux and vapor pressure deficit to be the most important input variables to the calculation of bulk stomatal conductance, with absorbed net radiation and bulk boundary layer conductance being much less important. Conversely, bulk stomatal conductance was one of the most important inputs when calculating vine transpiration, further emphasizing the need for characterizing its response to environmental changes for use in vineyard water use modeling.

Metabolomic discrimination of grapevine water status for Chardonnay and Pinot noir

Water status impact in viticulture has been widely explored, as it strongly affects grapevine physiology and grape chemical composition. It is considered as a key component of vitivinicultural terroir. Most of the studies concerning grapevine water status have focused on either physiological traits, or berry compounds, or traits involved in wine quality. Here, the response of grapevine to water availability during the ripening period is assessed through non-targeted metabolomics analysis of grape berries by ultra-high resolution mass spectrometry. The grapevine water status has been assessed during 2 consecutive years (2019 & 2020), through carbon isotope discrimination on juices from berries collected at maturity (21.5 brix approx.) for 2 Vitis vinifera cv. Pinot noir (PN) and Chardonnay (CH). A total of 220 grape juices were collected from 5 countries worldwide (Italy; Argentina; France; Germany; Portugal). Measured δ13C (‰) varied from -28.73 to -22.6 for PN, and from -28.79 to -21.67 for CH. These results also clearly revealed higher water stress for the 2020 vintage. The same grape juices have been analysed by Fourier Transform Ion Cyclotron Resonance Mass Spectrometry (FT-ICR-MS) and Liquid Chromatography coupled to Mass Spectrometry (LC-qTOF-MS), leading to the detection of up to 4500 CHONS containing elemental compositions, and thus likely tens of thousands of individual compounds, which include fatty acids, organic acids, peptides, phenolics, also with high levels of glycosylation. Multivariate statistical analysis revealed that up to 160 elemental compositions, covering the whole range of detected masses (100 –1000 m/z), were significantly correlated to the observed gradients of water status. Examples of chemical markers, which are representative of these complex fingerprints, include various derivatives of the known abscisic acid (ABA), such as phaesic acid or abscisic acid glucose ester, which are significantly correlated with higher water stress, regardless of the variety. Cultivar-specific behaviours could also be identified from these fingerprints. Our results provide an unprecedented representation of the metabolic diversity, which is involved in the water status regulation at the grape level, and which could contribute to a better knowledge of the grapevine mitigation strategy in a climate change context.