Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Territorial delimitation of viticultural “Oltrepo Pavese (Lombardy)” using grape ripening precocity

Territorial delimitation of viticultural “Oltrepo Pavese (Lombardy)” using grape ripening precocity

Abstract

[English version below]

L’Oltrepò Pavese est une zone de collines de la Lombardie, région située au nord de l’Italie avec un vignoble qui s’étend sur près de 15 000 ha. Cette zone représente la plus grande aire de production de la région et une des A.O.C. les plus étendues de tout le pays. Les cépages les plus cultivés, même historiquement, sont autochtones : la Barbera et la Croatina utilisés pour la production de vin rouge «Oltrepò» et le Pinot noir pour la production de vins mousseux. Pour le zonage viticole de cette A.O.C., il a été pris en considération: le climat, les sols, les caractéristiques viti-vinicoles. L’étude pédologique effectuée sur le vignoble a permis de réaliser une carte des sols à l’échelle 1/25000. Pour l’étude viticole, il a été choisi 80 parcelles de références représentatives des sols, du climat et des conditions agronomiques. Sur toutes les parcelles pendant trois ans (1999, 2000, 2001), des données sur la production, sur la vigueur, sur la maturation et sur la composition des moûts ont été récoltées. Pendant la vendange, un échantillon représentatif de raisin a été récolté pour les microvinifications de chaque parcelle. Les vins ont été étudiés chimiquement et aussi soumis à des tests d’analyse sensorielle. L’approche multidisciplinaire a permis de caractériser l’appellation en zone adaptée à produire un vin de base Pinot noir et une zone différente plus apte à la production d’un vin rouge moderne et de qualité. Avec l’élaboration statistique des données cumulées des trois années des courbes de maturation, il a été possible de subdiviser les parcelles en classe de précocité et observer qu’avec une véraison plus précoce correspondrait aussi une meilleure accumulation des sucres au moment de la récolte. Pour les vins rouges, les facteurs influençant le plus la précocité se trouvent être l’altitude, la capacité de drainage des sols et la P.A.R., alors que pour le pinot noir l’altitude et la composition des sols jouent un rôle plus important. Des différences statistiques significatives se sont révélées sur les paramètres végétatifs, productifs et qualitatifs des moûts, sur le contenu polyphénolique du raisin et sur les profils chimiques et sensoriels des vins produits par microvinification.

Oltrepò Pavese is a hilly area of Lombardy, a region located in northern Italy with a vineyard surface of approximately 15.000 ha. It represents the widest viticultural area of all the region and one of the most extended zones of Origin’s Denomination of all the country. The mainly grown varieties, also from the historical point of view, are the autochthonous Barbera and Croatina used for the production of the Red wine Oltrepo and Pinot noir used for the sparkling wine. For the viticultural zoning of the area, climate, soils, viticulture and enological properties have been characterised. The pedological survey carried out in the vineyards allowed to produce a soil map on a scale of 1 :25.000. For the viticultural survey, 80 trial sites, representative of the soil, climate and agronomic condition have been chosen. In all the site for three years (’99, ’00 and 2001) grapevine yield, vegetative growth, maturation curves and must composition were detected. At vintage, an adequate grape sample was gathered for microvinification. Wines were evaluated both by chemical and sensorial analysis. A multidisciplinary approach allowed to characterise the area in different zones adapted to produce sparkling Pinot noir wine and in zones of different suitability in order to produce a modern style premium red wine. By a statistical data processing of the three years maturation curves it was possible to subdivide the vineyards in precocity classes and to observe that an earlier veraison generally corresponded also to an high sugar accumulation at the moment of grape harvest. For red wines the mainly influencing factors regarding the precocity turned out to be altitude, the soil ability to water-drainage and the P.A.R. availability (photosynthetically active radiation) while for Pinot noir altitude and soil texture played the most important role. Statistical significant differences in growth, yield and quality have been found on musts composition, on polyphenols content of the grapes and on the chemical and sensorial profile of wines produced by microvinifications.

DOI:

Publication date: February 15, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2002

Type: Article

Authors

Brancadoro L., Toninato L., Tamai G., Failla O., Peluso F., Mariani L., Minelli R., Scienza A.

Université di Milano – Dipartimento di Produzione Vegetale – Via Celoria 2, 20133 Milano, Italy

Contact the author

Keywords

analyse sensorielle, capacité de drainage, courbes de maturation, microvinification, P.A.R.
maturation curves, microvinifications, P.A.R., sensorial analysis, water-drainage

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2002

Citation

Related articles…

Teasing apart terroir: the influence of management style on native yeast communities within Oregon wineries and vineyards

Newer sequencing technologies have allowed for the addition of microbes to the story of terroir. The same environmental factors that influence the phenotypic expression of a crop also shape the composition of the microbial communities found on that crop. For fermented goods, such as wine, that microbial community ultimately influences the organoleptic properties of the final product that is delivered to customers. Recent studies have begun to study the biogeography of wine-associated microbes within different growing regions, finding that communities are distinct across landscapes. Despite this new knowledge, there are still many questions about what factors drive these differences. Our goal was to quantify differences in yeast communities due to management style between seven pairs of conventional and biodynamic vineyards (14 in total) throughout Oregon, USA. We wanted to answer the following questions: 1) are yeast communities distinct between biodynamic vineyards and conventional vineyards? 2) are these differences consistent across a large geographic region? 3) can differences in yeast communities be tied to differences in metabolite profiles of the bottled wine? To collect our data we took soil, bark, leaf, and grape samples from within each vineyard from five different vines of pinot noir. We also collected must and a 10º brix sample from each winery. Using these samples, we performed 18S amplicon sequencing to identify the yeast present. We then used metabolomics to characterize the organoleptic compounds present in the bottled wine from the blocks the year that we sampled. We are actively in the process of analysing our data from this study.

Metabolomic discrimination of grapevine water status for Chardonnay and Pinot noir

Water status impact in viticulture has been widely explored, as it strongly affects grapevine physiology and grape chemical composition. It is considered as a key component of vitivinicultural terroir. Most of the studies concerning grapevine water status have focused on either physiological traits, or berry compounds, or traits involved in wine quality. Here, the response of grapevine to water availability during the ripening period is assessed through non-targeted metabolomics analysis of grape berries by ultra-high resolution mass spectrometry. The grapevine water status has been assessed during 2 consecutive years (2019 & 2020), through carbon isotope discrimination on juices from berries collected at maturity (21.5 brix approx.) for 2 Vitis vinifera cv. Pinot noir (PN) and Chardonnay (CH). A total of 220 grape juices were collected from 5 countries worldwide (Italy; Argentina; France; Germany; Portugal). Measured δ13C (‰) varied from -28.73 to -22.6 for PN, and from -28.79 to -21.67 for CH. These results also clearly revealed higher water stress for the 2020 vintage. The same grape juices have been analysed by Fourier Transform Ion Cyclotron Resonance Mass Spectrometry (FT-ICR-MS) and Liquid Chromatography coupled to Mass Spectrometry (LC-qTOF-MS), leading to the detection of up to 4500 CHONS containing elemental compositions, and thus likely tens of thousands of individual compounds, which include fatty acids, organic acids, peptides, phenolics, also with high levels of glycosylation. Multivariate statistical analysis revealed that up to 160 elemental compositions, covering the whole range of detected masses (100 –1000 m/z), were significantly correlated to the observed gradients of water status. Examples of chemical markers, which are representative of these complex fingerprints, include various derivatives of the known abscisic acid (ABA), such as phaesic acid or abscisic acid glucose ester, which are significantly correlated with higher water stress, regardless of the variety. Cultivar-specific behaviours could also be identified from these fingerprints. Our results provide an unprecedented representation of the metabolic diversity, which is involved in the water status regulation at the grape level, and which could contribute to a better knowledge of the grapevine mitigation strategy in a climate change context.

Legacy of land-cover changes on soil erosion and microbiology in Burgundian vineyards

Soils in vineyards are recognized as complex agrosystems whose characteristics reflect complex interactions between natural factors (lithology, climate, slope, biodiversity) and human activities. To date, most of the unknown lies in an incomplete understanding of soil ecosystems, and specifically in the microbial biodiversity even though soil microbiota is involved in many key functions, such as nutrient cycling and carbon sequestration. Soil biological properties are indicative of soil quality. Therefore, understanding how soil communities are related to soil ecosystem functioning is becoming an essential issue for soil strategy conservation. Here, we propose to assess the importance of land-cover history on the present-day microbiological and physico-chemical properties. The studied area was selected in the Burgundian vineyards (Pernand-Vergelesses, Burgundy, France) where land occupation has been reconstructed over the last 40 years. Soil samples were collected in five areas reflecting various land cover history (forest, vineyards, shifting from forest to vineyards). For each area, physico-chemical parameters (pH, C, N, P, grain size) were measured and DNA was extracted to characterize the abundance and diversity of microbial communities. The obtained results show significant differences in the five areas suggesting that present-day microbial molecular biomass and bacterial taxonomic is partly inherited from past land occupation. Over longer period of time, such study of land-uses legacies may help to better assess ecosystem recovery and the impact of management practices for a better soil quality and vineyards sustainability.

Local ancient grapevine cultivars to face future viticulture

Among the different strategies to cope with the negative impacts of climate change on viticulture, the exploitation of genetic diversity is one of the most promising to adapt to new conditions and maintain wine production and quality. One of the biggest concerns in the context of climate change is to improve water use efficiency (WUE). In this way, the use of genotypes that present a better response to drought and high WUE is a key issue. In this work, physiological performance analysis was conducted to compare the water deficit stress (WDS) responses of local and widespread grapevines cultivars. Leaf gas exchange, water use efficiency (WUE) at different levels (leaf and long-term WUE (∆13C)), leaf osmotic adjustment and other water relations parameters were determined in plants under well-watered and WDS conditions alongside assessment of the levels of foliar hormones concentrations. Results denote that local cultivars displayed better physiological performance under WDS as compared to the widely-distributed ones. he results corroborate the hypothesis that better stomatal control allows increasing leaf WUE under drought as occurred in the local Callet cv.; but the minority local cultivar Escursac cv. showed high WUE under both treatments. In this case, high WUE can be related to maintaining higher photosynthetic activity under drought. The different mechanisms underlying the better performance under WDS and high WUE of minority local cultivars are discussed.

Adapting the vineyard to climate change in warm climate regions with cultural practices

Since the 1980s global regime shift, grape growers have been steadily adapting to a changing climate. These adaptations have preserved the region-climate-cultivar rapports that have established the global trade of wine with lucrative economic benefits since the middle of 17th century. The advent of using fractions of crop and actual evapotranspiration replacement in vineyards with the use of supplemental irrigation has furthered the adaptation of wine grape cultivation. The shift in trellis systems, as well as pruning methods from positioned shoot systems to sprawling canopies, as well as adapting the bearing surface from head-trained, cane-pruned to cordon-trained, spur-pruned systems have also aided in the adaptation of grapevine to warmer temperatures. In warm climates, the use of shade cloth or over-head shade films not only have aided in arresting the damage of heat waves, but also identified opportunities to reduce the evapotranspiration from vineyards, reducing environmental footprint of vineyard. Our increase in knowledge on how best to understand the response of grapevine to climate change was aided with the identification of solar radiation exposure biomarker that is now used for phenotyping cultivars in their adaptability to harsh environments. Using fruit-based metrics such as sugar-flavonoid relationships were shown to be better indicators of losses in berry integrity associated with a warming climate, rather than solely focusing on region-climate-cultivar rapports. The resilience of wine grape was further enhanced by exploitation of rootstock × scion combinations that can resist untoward droughts and warm temperatures by making more resilient grapevine combinations. Our understanding of soil-plant-atmosphere continuum in the vineyard has increased within the last 50 years in such a manner that growers are able to use no-till systems with the aid of arbuscular mycorrhiza fungi inoculation with permanent cover cropping making the vineyard more resilient to droughts and heat waves. In premium wine grape regions viticulture has successfully adapted to a rapidly changing climate thus far, but berry based metrics are raising a concern that we may be approaching a tipping point.