Wine growing terroirs: management of potential. New issues at stake for AOCs in France

Current changes of ecoclimatic indicators may cause significant variation in grapevine phenology and grape ripening. Climate change modifies several abiotic factors (e.g. temperature, sunlight radiation, water availability) during the grapevine growth cycle, having a direct impact on the phenological stages of the grapevine, modulating the metabolic profile of berries and activating the synthesis and accumulation of diverse compounds in the skin of berries, with consequences on the composition of the grapes. The influence exerted by different meteorological conditions, during three consecutive years (2020-2022) on secondary metabolites such as the polyphenolic profile of Grignolino grapes was investigated. The samples were collected from three vineyards characterized by different microclimatic conditions mainly related to the vineyard aspect and to a different age of the plants.

Innovative solutions have been developed for winemakers to adopt in their cultivation practices [1]. Two of the implementations addressed in this study are the use of strains adapted to arid climates (AAC) and the use of varieties resistant to fungal diseases (PIWIs).

Les aires d’appellations de la Côte d’Or résultent d’une sélection humaine empirique, historique et évolutive en adéquation avec les facteurs naturels. Afin de comprendre quels facteurs naturels et humains agissent sur le caractère et l’évolution des terroirs des Côtes de Nuits et de Beaune, une méthodologie de recherche a été développée. Elle s’articule autour de deux axes, la caractérisation physique des lieux-dits viticoles et l’historicité de la qualité de ces lieux-dits. Le travail avec un S.I.G permet d’étudier l’évolution spatiale et temporelle de la qualité.

Fermenting grape juice represents one of the oldest continuously maintained anthropogenic microbial environments and supports a well-mapped microbial ecosystem. Several yeast and bacterial species dominate this ecosystem, and some of these species are part of the globally most studied and best understood individual organisms. Detailed physiological, cellular and molecular data have been generated on these individual species and have helped elucidate complex evolutionary processes such as the domestication of wine yeast strains of the species Saccharomyces cerevisiae. These data support the notion that the wine making environment represents an ecological niche of significant evolutionary relevance. Taken together, the data suggest that the wine fermentation ecosystem is an excellent model to study fundamental questions about the working of microbial ecosystems and on the impact of biotic selection pressures on microbial ecosystem functioning. Indeed, and although well mapped, the rules and molecular mechanisms that govern the interactions between microbial species within this, and other, ecosystems remain underexplored. Here we present data derived from several converging approaches, including microbiome data of spontaneous fermentations, the population dynamics of constructed consortia, the application of biotic selection pressures in directed laboratory evolution, and the physiological and molecular analysis of pairwise and higher order interactions between yeast species. The data reveal the importance of cell wall-related elements in interspecies interactions and in evolutionary adaptation and suggest that predictive modelling and biotechnological control of the wine ecosystem during fermentation are promising strategies for wine making in future.

Questo simposio organizzato dall ‘Associazione nazionale Città del Vino, che mi onoro di presiedere, è per me motivo di particolare soddisfazione perché porta a compimento parte di un percorso iniziato dall’associazione da alcuni anni e che ha un obiettivo apparentemente semplice: sollecitare gli amministratori delle Città del Vino a perseguire con tenacia, tal­volta anche con la necessaria caparbietà, programmi ed interventi che abbiano al centro, sempre, la qualità della vita dei loro territori.