Terroir 2004 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Gambellara zoning: climate and soil effect on the aromatic fresh and dried grape composition and wine aroma

Gambellara zoning: climate and soil effect on the aromatic fresh and dried grape composition and wine aroma

Abstract

[English version below]

La région de production de la Gambellara et Recioto di Gambellara DOC (variété Garganega), tout en n’intéressant qu’une surface limitée, présente une certaine variabilité de milieu due à la morphologie du territoire (colline et plaine), à l’état actuel des sols et aux variations climatiques entre les différents sites. Pour les années 2001, 2002 ed 2003, après avoir divisé la région en sept parcelles, ont été analysées les caractéristiques compositives des raisins et la qualité organoleptique des vins. L’essai a été conduit aussi bien sur le raisin frais, destiné a fournir le vin Gambellara, que sur le raisin sec à partir duquel est produit le vin doux Recioto. Aussi bien les raisins frais que ceux déshydratés appartenaient à ces sept parcelles. Le contrôle des précurseurs aromatiques de variété obtenus par hydrolyse chimique et enzymatique, a confirmé le lien entre zones d’origine et teneurs en terpénoides, norisoprénoïdes et benzénoïdes dans le raisin frais, avec des concentrations plus élevées dans certaines zones par rapport à d’autres, obtenant ainsi une première caractérisation sur une base chimiques des différentes zones. La dégustation des vins obtenus à partir des raisins frais a confirmé, en grande partie, le lien entre la teneur en précurseurs aromatiques des raisins et les sensations olfactives, arrivant ainsi à une caractérisation organoleptique des vins et de leurs sites. L’analyse chimique des précurseurs aromatiques présents dans les raisins secs (cinq mois de passerillage) n’a pas donné la même échelle quantitative mise en évidence avec le raisin frais. Ceci nous amène à supposer que l’on doit faire une lecture plus attentive et plus approfondie des résultats. L’analyse organoleptique des vins secs (Recioto) a mis en évidence un lien quantitatif avec la teneur en précurseurs uniquement dans les cas présentant une plus grande richesse. Tout ceci confirme une différence aromatique certaine des raisins provenant des différentes zones, en fonction des facteurs de milieu étudiés. Avec le passerillage des raisins, le cadre aromatique s’enrichit pour certains composés (voir le néroli du groupe des terpènes et norisoprénoïdes par hydrolyse chimique), et il s’appauvrit pour d’autres (voir le linalol du groupe des terpènes). Le lien avec les facteurs climatiques et du sol devient maintenant moins certain, mais une différenciation persiste néanmoins en fonction des sites d’origine des raisins.

The first aim of the work has been to value the relationship between climate-soil characteristic and grape composition; then we studied the same correlation with the dried grape and in the end we took into consideration the aromatic quality of the wine. The trial has been done in the Gambellara area (North-east Italy). The area of production of the DOC Gambellara and Recioto di Gambellara wine (Garganega variety) even though it is a small area (1.000 ha), it has a notable environmental variability due to the landscape morphology (hill and plain), soil characteristics and the climatic differences between sites. For the three year period, 2001-2003, in the seven homogeneous zones in which the area was subdivided, we analysed the grape chemical characteristics (sugar, acidity, pH, aromatic compounds etc) and the organolectic quality of the wine. The trial and analysis were carried out using both fresh and, after a period of drying process, dried grapes, the first to obtain the Gambellara wine, and the second to obtain the Recioto sweet wine. The analysis of the varietal aromatic compounds on the fresh grape (obtained through enzymatic and acid hydrolysis) confirmed the close relationship between sub-zone origin (climate and soil water holding capacity) and quantity of terpenoids, norisoprenoids and benzenoids compounds. These quantity were different for different zones, directing us towards a first chemical characterisation of the zones. The tasting of wine obtained with fresh grape, in large part, confirmed the relationship between the quantity of aromatic compounds in the grape and olfactory sensations in the wine, obtaining in this way a good wine characterisation. The same chemical analysis seen before, were done on dried grapes (five month drying period) giving us a different scale of relative quantity between zones if compared with the fresh one. This leads us to suppose that other factors should be taken into consideration. Only those dried grapes richest in aromatic compounds give the most perfumed wines. All of this confirms a certain aromatic differentiation due to the origin of the grape and of the climatic condition of the zones. With the drying of the grape, the aromatic composition increases in certain compounds (e.g. nerol in the monoterpenes group and norisoprenoids) while losing others (e.g. linalool in the monoterpenes group). So for the dried grape and its wine, the effects of climatic and soil characteristics are less evident, but there remains a sure relationship with the zone of origin of the grape.

DOI:

Publication date: January 12, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2004

Type: Article

Authors

D. Tomasi (1), G. Pascarella (1), D. Borsa (2), R. Minelli (3), P. Sivilotti (1)

(1) Istituto Sperimentale per la Viticoltura – Via XXVIII Aprile, 26, 31015 Conegliano (TV)
(2) Istituto Sperimentale per l’Enologia – Via Pietro Micca, 35 14100 Asti
(3) Soil expert

Contact the author

Keywords

Zoning, aromatic compounds, wine quality

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2004

Citation

Related articles…

Heatwaves and grapevine yield in the Douro region, crop model simulations

Heatwaves or extreme heat events can be particularly harmful to agriculture. Grapevines grown in the Douro winemaking region are particularly exposed to this threat, due to the specificities of the already warm and dry climatic conditions. Furthermore, climate change simulations point to an increase in the frequency of occurrence of these extreme heat events, therefore posing a major challenge to winegrowers in the Mediterranean type climates. The current study focuses on the application of the STICS crop model to assess the potential impacts of heatwaves in grapevine yields over the Douro valley winemaking region. For this purpose, STICS was applied to grapevines using high-resolution weather, soil and terrain datasets over the Douro. To assess the impact of heatwaves, the weather dataset (1989-2005) was artificially modified, generating periods with anomalously high temperatures (+5 ºC), at certain onset dates and with specific durations (from 5 to 9 days). The model was run with this modified weather dataset and results were compared to the original unmodified runs. The results show that heatwaves can have a very strong impact on grapevine yields, strongly depending on the onset dates and duration of the heatwaves. The highest negative impacts may result in a decrease in the yield by up to -35% in some regions. Despite some uncertainties inherent to the current modelling assessment, the present study highlights the negative impacts of heatwaves on viticultural yields in the Douro region, which is critical information for stakeholders within the winemaking sector for planning suitable adaptation measures.

Towards a regional mapping of vine water status based on crowdsourcing observations

Monitoring vine water status is a major challenge for vineyard management because it influences both yield and harvest quality. It is also a challenge at the territorial scale for identifying periods of high water restriction or zones regularly impacted by water stress. This information is of major importance for defining collective strategies, anticipating harvest logistic or applying for irrigation authorisation. At this spatial scale, existing tools and methods for monitoring vine water status are few and often require strong assumptions (e.g. water balance model). This paper proposes to consider a collaborative collection of observations by winegrowers and wine industry stakeholders (crowdsourcing) as an interesting alternative. Indeed, it allows the collection of a large number of field observations while pooling the collection effort. However, the feasibility of such a project and its interest in monitoring vine water status at regional scale has never been tested.

The objective of this article is to explore the possibility of making a regional map of vine water status based on crowdsourcing observations. It is based on the study of the free mobile application ApeX-Vigne, which allows the collection of observations about vine shoot growth. This information is easy to collect and can be considered, under certain conditions, as a proxy for vine water status. This article presents the first results obtained from the nearly 18,000 observations collected by winegrowers and wine industry stakeholders during 2019, 2020 and 2021 seasons. It presents the vine shoot growth maps obtained at regional scale and their evolution over the three vintages studied. It also proposes an analysis of the factors that favoured the number of observations collected and those that favoured their quality. These results open up new perspectives for monitoring vine water status at a regional scale but above they provide references for other crowdsourcing projects in viticulture.

Spatiotemporal patterns of chemical attributes in Vitis vinifera L. cv. Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards in Central California

Spatial variability of vine productivity in winegrapes is important to characterise as both yield and quality are relevant for the production of different wine styles and products. The objectives were to understand how patterns of variability of Cabernet Sauvignon fruit composition changed over time and space, how these patterns could be characterised with indirect measurements, and how spatial patterns of the variation in fruit compositional attributes can aid in improving management. Prior to the 2017 vintage, 125 data vines were distributed across each of four vineyards in the Lodi American Viticultural Area (AVA) of California. Each data vine was sampled at commercial harvest in 2017, 2018, and 2019. Yield components and fruit composition were measured at harvest for each data vine, and maps of yield and fruit composition were produced for eight ‘objective measures of fruit quality’: total anthocyanins, polymeric tannins, quercetin glycosides, malic acid, yeast assimilable nitrogen, β-damascenone, C6 alcohols and aldehydes, and 3-isobutyl-2-methoxypyrazine. Patterns of variation in anthocyanins and phenolic compounds were found to be most stable over time. Given this relative stability, management decisions focused on fruit quality could be based on zonal descriptions of anthocyanins or phenolics to increase profitability in some vineyards. In each vineyard, dormant season pruning weights and soil cores were collected at each location, elevation and soil apparent electrical conductivity surveys were completed, and remotely sensed imagery was captured by fixed wing aircraft and two satellite platforms at major phenological stages. The data collected were used to develop relationships among biophysical data, soil, imagery, and fruit composition. The standardised and aggregated samples from four vineyards over three seasons were included in the estimation of ‘common variograms’ to assess how this technique could aid growers in producing geostatistically rigorous maps of fruit composition variability without cumbersome, single season sampling efforts.

Revealing the Barossa zone sub-divisions through sensory and chemical analysis of Shiraz wine

The Barossa zone is arguably one of the most well-recognised wine producing regions in Australia and internationally; known mainly for the production of its distinct Shiraz wines. However, within the broad Barossa geographical delimitation, a variation in terroir can be perceived and is expressed as sensorial and chemical profile differences between wines. This study aimed to explore the sub-division classification across the Barossa region using chemical and sensory measurements. Shiraz grapes from 4 different vintages and different vineyards across the Barossa (2018, n = 69; 2019, n = 72; 2020, n = 79; 2021, n = 64) were harvested and made using a standardised small lot winemaking procedure. The analysis involved a sensory descriptive analysis with a highly trained panel and chemical measurement including basic chemistry (e.g. pH, TA, alcohol content, total SO2), phenolic composition, volatile compounds, metals, proline, and polysaccharides. The datasets were combined and analysed through an unsupervised, clustering analysis. Firstly, each vintage was considered separately to investigate any vintage to vintage variation. The datasets were then combined and analysed as a whole. The number of sub-divisions based on the measurements were identified and characterised with their sensory and chemical profile and some consistencies were seen between the vintages. Preliminary analysis of the sensory results showed that in most vintages, two major groups could be identified characterised with one group showing a fruit-forward profile and another displaying savoury and cooked vegetables characters. The exploration of distinct profiles arising from the Barossa wine producing region will provide producers with valuable information about the regional potential of their wine assisting with tools to increase their target market and reputation. This study will also provide a robust and comprehensive basis to determine the distinctive terroir characteristics which exist within the Barossa wine producing region.

Variety and climatic effects on quality scores in the Western US winegrowing regions

Wine quality is strongly linked to climate. Quality scores are often driven by climate variation across different winegrowing regions and years, but also influenced by other aspects of terroir, including variety. While recent work has looked at the relationship between quality scores and climate across many European regions, less work has examined New World winegrowing regions. Here we used scores from three major rating systems (Wine Advocate, Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator) combined with daily climate and phenology data to understand what drives variation across wine quality scores in major regions of the Western US, including regions in California, Oregon and Washington. We examined effects of variety, region, and in what phenological period climate was most predictive of quality. As in other studies, we found climate, based mainly on growing degree day (GDD) models, was generally associated with quality—with higher GDD associated with higher scores—but variety and region also had strong effects. Effects of region were generally stronger than variety. Certain varieties received the highest scores in only some areas, while other varieties (e.g., Merlot) generally scored lower across regions. Across phenological stages, GDD during budbreak was often most strongly associated with quality. Our results support other studies that warmer periods generally drive high quality wines, but highlight how much region and variety drive variation in scores outside of climate.