Terroir 2004 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Gambellara zoning: climate and soil effect on the aromatic fresh and dried grape composition and wine aroma

Gambellara zoning: climate and soil effect on the aromatic fresh and dried grape composition and wine aroma

Abstract

[English version below]

La région de production de la Gambellara et Recioto di Gambellara DOC (variété Garganega), tout en n’intéressant qu’une surface limitée, présente une certaine variabilité de milieu due à la morphologie du territoire (colline et plaine), à l’état actuel des sols et aux variations climatiques entre les différents sites. Pour les années 2001, 2002 ed 2003, après avoir divisé la région en sept parcelles, ont été analysées les caractéristiques compositives des raisins et la qualité organoleptique des vins. L’essai a été conduit aussi bien sur le raisin frais, destiné a fournir le vin Gambellara, que sur le raisin sec à partir duquel est produit le vin doux Recioto. Aussi bien les raisins frais que ceux déshydratés appartenaient à ces sept parcelles. Le contrôle des précurseurs aromatiques de variété obtenus par hydrolyse chimique et enzymatique, a confirmé le lien entre zones d’origine et teneurs en terpénoides, norisoprénoïdes et benzénoïdes dans le raisin frais, avec des concentrations plus élevées dans certaines zones par rapport à d’autres, obtenant ainsi une première caractérisation sur une base chimiques des différentes zones. La dégustation des vins obtenus à partir des raisins frais a confirmé, en grande partie, le lien entre la teneur en précurseurs aromatiques des raisins et les sensations olfactives, arrivant ainsi à une caractérisation organoleptique des vins et de leurs sites. L’analyse chimique des précurseurs aromatiques présents dans les raisins secs (cinq mois de passerillage) n’a pas donné la même échelle quantitative mise en évidence avec le raisin frais. Ceci nous amène à supposer que l’on doit faire une lecture plus attentive et plus approfondie des résultats. L’analyse organoleptique des vins secs (Recioto) a mis en évidence un lien quantitatif avec la teneur en précurseurs uniquement dans les cas présentant une plus grande richesse. Tout ceci confirme une différence aromatique certaine des raisins provenant des différentes zones, en fonction des facteurs de milieu étudiés. Avec le passerillage des raisins, le cadre aromatique s’enrichit pour certains composés (voir le néroli du groupe des terpènes et norisoprénoïdes par hydrolyse chimique), et il s’appauvrit pour d’autres (voir le linalol du groupe des terpènes). Le lien avec les facteurs climatiques et du sol devient maintenant moins certain, mais une différenciation persiste néanmoins en fonction des sites d’origine des raisins.

The first aim of the work has been to value the relationship between climate-soil characteristic and grape composition; then we studied the same correlation with the dried grape and in the end we took into consideration the aromatic quality of the wine. The trial has been done in the Gambellara area (North-east Italy). The area of production of the DOC Gambellara and Recioto di Gambellara wine (Garganega variety) even though it is a small area (1.000 ha), it has a notable environmental variability due to the landscape morphology (hill and plain), soil characteristics and the climatic differences between sites. For the three year period, 2001-2003, in the seven homogeneous zones in which the area was subdivided, we analysed the grape chemical characteristics (sugar, acidity, pH, aromatic compounds etc) and the organolectic quality of the wine. The trial and analysis were carried out using both fresh and, after a period of drying process, dried grapes, the first to obtain the Gambellara wine, and the second to obtain the Recioto sweet wine. The analysis of the varietal aromatic compounds on the fresh grape (obtained through enzymatic and acid hydrolysis) confirmed the close relationship between sub-zone origin (climate and soil water holding capacity) and quantity of terpenoids, norisoprenoids and benzenoids compounds. These quantity were different for different zones, directing us towards a first chemical characterisation of the zones. The tasting of wine obtained with fresh grape, in large part, confirmed the relationship between the quantity of aromatic compounds in the grape and olfactory sensations in the wine, obtaining in this way a good wine characterisation. The same chemical analysis seen before, were done on dried grapes (five month drying period) giving us a different scale of relative quantity between zones if compared with the fresh one. This leads us to suppose that other factors should be taken into consideration. Only those dried grapes richest in aromatic compounds give the most perfumed wines. All of this confirms a certain aromatic differentiation due to the origin of the grape and of the climatic condition of the zones. With the drying of the grape, the aromatic composition increases in certain compounds (e.g. nerol in the monoterpenes group and norisoprenoids) while losing others (e.g. linalool in the monoterpenes group). So for the dried grape and its wine, the effects of climatic and soil characteristics are less evident, but there remains a sure relationship with the zone of origin of the grape.

DOI:

Publication date: January 12, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2004

Type: Article

Authors

D. Tomasi (1), G. Pascarella (1), D. Borsa (2), R. Minelli (3), P. Sivilotti (1)

(1) Istituto Sperimentale per la Viticoltura – Via XXVIII Aprile, 26, 31015 Conegliano (TV)
(2) Istituto Sperimentale per l’Enologia – Via Pietro Micca, 35 14100 Asti
(3) Soil expert

Contact the author

Keywords

Zoning, aromatic compounds, wine quality

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2004

Citation

Related articles…

Assessment of the impact of actions in the vineyard and its surrounding environment on biodiversity in Rioja Alavesa (Spain)

Traditional viticulture areas have experienced in the last decades an intensification of field practices, linked to an increased use of fertilisers and phytosanitary products, and to a more intensive mechanization and uniformization of the landscape. This change in management has sometimes led to higher rates of soil erosion andloss of soil structure, fertility decline, groundwater contamination, and to an increased pressure of pests and diseases. Additionally, intensification usually leads to a simplification of landscapes, of particular concern in prestigious wine grape regions where the economical revenue encourages the conversion of land use from natural habitats to high value wine grape production. To revert this trend, it is necessary that growers implement actions that promote biodiversity in their vineyards. The aim of this study is to assess the impact of the implementation of cover crops, vegetational corridors, dry stone walls and vineyard biodiversity hotspots estimated through the study of arthropods. The work has been carried out in four vineyards in Rioja Alavesa belonging to Ostatu winery, where these infrastructures were implemented in 2020. The presence and diversity of arthropods was studied by capturing them at different times in the season and at different distances from the infrastructure using pit-fall traps in the soil and yellow, white and blue chromatic traps at the canopy level. This is a preliminary study in which all adult insects were sorted to the taxonomic level of order and Coleoptera were classified to morphospecies. The results obtained show that there is a relationship between the basic characteristics of the vineyard and the arthropods captured, with a positive effect, although also dependent on the vineyard, of the presence of infrastructure.

Climate change impacts: a multi-stress issue

With the aim of producing premium wines, it is admitted that moderate environmental stresses may contribute to the accumulation of compounds of interest in grapes. However the ongoing climate change, with the appearance of more limiting conditions of production is a major concern for the wine industry economic. Will it be possible to maintain the vineyards in place, to preserve the current grape varieties and how should we anticipate the adaptation measures to ensure the sustainability of vineyards? In this context, the question of the responses and adaptation of grapevine to abiotic stresses becomes a major scientific issue to tackle. An abiotic stress can be defined as the effect of a specific factor of the physico-chemical environment of the plants (temperature, availability of water and minerals, light, etc.) which reduces growth, and for a crop such as the vine, the yield, the composition of the fruits and the sustainability of the plants. Water stress is in many minds, but a systemic vision is essential for at least two reasons. The first reason is that in natural environments, a single factor is rarely limiting, and plants have to deal with a combination of constraints, as for example heat and drought, both in time and at a given time. The second reason is that plants, including grapevine, have central mechanisms of stress responses, as redox regulatory pathways, that play an important role in adaptation and survival. Here we will review the most recent studies dealing with this issue to provide a better understanding of the grapevine responses to a combination of environmental constraints and of the underlying regulatory pathways, which may be very helpful to design more adapted solutions to cope with climate change.

Adaptation to soil and climate through the choice of plant material

Choosing the rootstock, the scion variety and the training system best suited to the local soil and climate are the key elements for an economically sustainable production of wine. The choice of the rootstock/scion variety best adapted to the characteristics of the soil is essential but, by changing climatic conditions, ongoing climate change disrupts the fine-tuned local equilibrium. Higher temperatures induce shifts in developmental stages, with on the one hand increasing fears of spring frost damages and, on the other hand, ripening during the warmest periods in summer. Expected higher water demand and longer and more frequent drought events are also major concerns. The genetic control of the phenotypes, by genomic information but also by the epigenetic control of gene expression, offers a lot of opportunities for adapting the plant material to the future. For complex traits, genomic selection is also a promising method for predicting phenotypes. However, ecophysiological modelling is necessary to better anticipate the phenotypes in unexplored climatic conditions Genetic approaches applied on parameters of ecophysiological models rather than raw observed data are more than ever the basis for finding, or building, the ideal varieties of the future.

Adapting the vineyard to climate change in warm climate regions with cultural practices

Since the 1980s global regime shift, grape growers have been steadily adapting to a changing climate. These adaptations have preserved the region-climate-cultivar rapports that have established the global trade of wine with lucrative economic benefits since the middle of 17th century. The advent of using fractions of crop and actual evapotranspiration replacement in vineyards with the use of supplemental irrigation has furthered the adaptation of wine grape cultivation. The shift in trellis systems, as well as pruning methods from positioned shoot systems to sprawling canopies, as well as adapting the bearing surface from head-trained, cane-pruned to cordon-trained, spur-pruned systems have also aided in the adaptation of grapevine to warmer temperatures. In warm climates, the use of shade cloth or over-head shade films not only have aided in arresting the damage of heat waves, but also identified opportunities to reduce the evapotranspiration from vineyards, reducing environmental footprint of vineyard. Our increase in knowledge on how best to understand the response of grapevine to climate change was aided with the identification of solar radiation exposure biomarker that is now used for phenotyping cultivars in their adaptability to harsh environments. Using fruit-based metrics such as sugar-flavonoid relationships were shown to be better indicators of losses in berry integrity associated with a warming climate, rather than solely focusing on region-climate-cultivar rapports. The resilience of wine grape was further enhanced by exploitation of rootstock × scion combinations that can resist untoward droughts and warm temperatures by making more resilient grapevine combinations. Our understanding of soil-plant-atmosphere continuum in the vineyard has increased within the last 50 years in such a manner that growers are able to use no-till systems with the aid of arbuscular mycorrhiza fungi inoculation with permanent cover cropping making the vineyard more resilient to droughts and heat waves. In premium wine grape regions viticulture has successfully adapted to a rapidly changing climate thus far, but berry based metrics are raising a concern that we may be approaching a tipping point.

Teasing apart terroir: the influence of management style on native yeast communities within Oregon wineries and vineyards

Newer sequencing technologies have allowed for the addition of microbes to the story of terroir. The same environmental factors that influence the phenotypic expression of a crop also shape the composition of the microbial communities found on that crop. For fermented goods, such as wine, that microbial community ultimately influences the organoleptic properties of the final product that is delivered to customers. Recent studies have begun to study the biogeography of wine-associated microbes within different growing regions, finding that communities are distinct across landscapes. Despite this new knowledge, there are still many questions about what factors drive these differences. Our goal was to quantify differences in yeast communities due to management style between seven pairs of conventional and biodynamic vineyards (14 in total) throughout Oregon, USA. We wanted to answer the following questions: 1) are yeast communities distinct between biodynamic vineyards and conventional vineyards? 2) are these differences consistent across a large geographic region? 3) can differences in yeast communities be tied to differences in metabolite profiles of the bottled wine? To collect our data we took soil, bark, leaf, and grape samples from within each vineyard from five different vines of pinot noir. We also collected must and a 10º brix sample from each winery. Using these samples, we performed 18S amplicon sequencing to identify the yeast present. We then used metabolomics to characterize the organoleptic compounds present in the bottled wine from the blocks the year that we sampled. We are actively in the process of analysing our data from this study.