Terroir 2004 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Gambellara zoning: climate and soil effect on the aromatic fresh and dried grape composition and wine aroma

Gambellara zoning: climate and soil effect on the aromatic fresh and dried grape composition and wine aroma

Abstract

[English version below]

La région de production de la Gambellara et Recioto di Gambellara DOC (variété Garganega), tout en n’intéressant qu’une surface limitée, présente une certaine variabilité de milieu due à la morphologie du territoire (colline et plaine), à l’état actuel des sols et aux variations climatiques entre les différents sites. Pour les années 2001, 2002 ed 2003, après avoir divisé la région en sept parcelles, ont été analysées les caractéristiques compositives des raisins et la qualité organoleptique des vins. L’essai a été conduit aussi bien sur le raisin frais, destiné a fournir le vin Gambellara, que sur le raisin sec à partir duquel est produit le vin doux Recioto. Aussi bien les raisins frais que ceux déshydratés appartenaient à ces sept parcelles. Le contrôle des précurseurs aromatiques de variété obtenus par hydrolyse chimique et enzymatique, a confirmé le lien entre zones d’origine et teneurs en terpénoides, norisoprénoïdes et benzénoïdes dans le raisin frais, avec des concentrations plus élevées dans certaines zones par rapport à d’autres, obtenant ainsi une première caractérisation sur une base chimiques des différentes zones. La dégustation des vins obtenus à partir des raisins frais a confirmé, en grande partie, le lien entre la teneur en précurseurs aromatiques des raisins et les sensations olfactives, arrivant ainsi à une caractérisation organoleptique des vins et de leurs sites. L’analyse chimique des précurseurs aromatiques présents dans les raisins secs (cinq mois de passerillage) n’a pas donné la même échelle quantitative mise en évidence avec le raisin frais. Ceci nous amène à supposer que l’on doit faire une lecture plus attentive et plus approfondie des résultats. L’analyse organoleptique des vins secs (Recioto) a mis en évidence un lien quantitatif avec la teneur en précurseurs uniquement dans les cas présentant une plus grande richesse. Tout ceci confirme une différence aromatique certaine des raisins provenant des différentes zones, en fonction des facteurs de milieu étudiés. Avec le passerillage des raisins, le cadre aromatique s’enrichit pour certains composés (voir le néroli du groupe des terpènes et norisoprénoïdes par hydrolyse chimique), et il s’appauvrit pour d’autres (voir le linalol du groupe des terpènes). Le lien avec les facteurs climatiques et du sol devient maintenant moins certain, mais une différenciation persiste néanmoins en fonction des sites d’origine des raisins.

The first aim of the work has been to value the relationship between climate-soil characteristic and grape composition; then we studied the same correlation with the dried grape and in the end we took into consideration the aromatic quality of the wine. The trial has been done in the Gambellara area (North-east Italy). The area of production of the DOC Gambellara and Recioto di Gambellara wine (Garganega variety) even though it is a small area (1.000 ha), it has a notable environmental variability due to the landscape morphology (hill and plain), soil characteristics and the climatic differences between sites. For the three year period, 2001-2003, in the seven homogeneous zones in which the area was subdivided, we analysed the grape chemical characteristics (sugar, acidity, pH, aromatic compounds etc) and the organolectic quality of the wine. The trial and analysis were carried out using both fresh and, after a period of drying process, dried grapes, the first to obtain the Gambellara wine, and the second to obtain the Recioto sweet wine. The analysis of the varietal aromatic compounds on the fresh grape (obtained through enzymatic and acid hydrolysis) confirmed the close relationship between sub-zone origin (climate and soil water holding capacity) and quantity of terpenoids, norisoprenoids and benzenoids compounds. These quantity were different for different zones, directing us towards a first chemical characterisation of the zones. The tasting of wine obtained with fresh grape, in large part, confirmed the relationship between the quantity of aromatic compounds in the grape and olfactory sensations in the wine, obtaining in this way a good wine characterisation. The same chemical analysis seen before, were done on dried grapes (five month drying period) giving us a different scale of relative quantity between zones if compared with the fresh one. This leads us to suppose that other factors should be taken into consideration. Only those dried grapes richest in aromatic compounds give the most perfumed wines. All of this confirms a certain aromatic differentiation due to the origin of the grape and of the climatic condition of the zones. With the drying of the grape, the aromatic composition increases in certain compounds (e.g. nerol in the monoterpenes group and norisoprenoids) while losing others (e.g. linalool in the monoterpenes group). So for the dried grape and its wine, the effects of climatic and soil characteristics are less evident, but there remains a sure relationship with the zone of origin of the grape.

DOI:

Publication date: January 12, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2004

Type: Article

Authors

D. Tomasi (1), G. Pascarella (1), D. Borsa (2), R. Minelli (3), P. Sivilotti (1)

(1) Istituto Sperimentale per la Viticoltura – Via XXVIII Aprile, 26, 31015 Conegliano (TV)
(2) Istituto Sperimentale per l’Enologia – Via Pietro Micca, 35 14100 Asti
(3) Soil expert

Contact the author

Keywords

Zoning, aromatic compounds, wine quality

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2004

Citation

Related articles…

The impact of leaf canopy management on eco-physiology, wood chemical properties and microbial communities in root, trunk and cordon of Riesling grapevines (Vitis vinifera L.)

In the last decades, climate change required already adaptation of vineyard management. Increase in temperature and unexpected weather events cause changes in all phenological stages requiring new management tools. For example, defoliation can be a useful tool to reduce the sugar content in the berries creating differences in the wine profiles. In a ten-year field experiment using Riesling (Vitis vinifera L, planted 1986, Geisenheim, Germany), various mechanical defoliation strategies and different intensities were trialed until 2016 before the vineyard was uprooted. Wood was sampled from the plant compartments root, trunk, cordon and shoot for analyses of physicochemical properties (e.g. lignin and element content, pH, diameter), nonstructural carbohydrates and the microbial communities. The aim of the study was to investigate the influence of reduced canopy leaf area on the sink-source allocation into different compartments and potential changes of the fungal and prokaryotic wood-inhabiting community using a metabarcoding approach. Severe summer pruning (SSP) of the canopy and mechanical defoliation (MDC) above the bunch zone decreased the leaf area by 50% compared to control (C). SSP reduced the photosynthetic capacity, which resulted in an altered source-sink allocation and carbohydrate storage. With lower leaf area, less carbohydrates are allocated. This for example resulted in a decreased trunk diameter. Further, it affected the composition of the grapevine wood microbiota. SSP and MDC management changed significantly the prokaryotic community composition in wood of the root samples, but had no effect in other compartments. In general, this study found strong compartment and less management effects of the microbial community composition and associated physicochemical properties. The highest microbial diversities were identified in the wood of the trunk, and several species were recorded the first time in grapevine.

The interplay between grape ripening and weather anomalies – A modeling exercise

Current climate change is increasing inter- and intra-annual variability in atmospheric conditions leading to grapevine phenological shifts as well altered grape ripening and composition at ripeness. This study aims to (i) detect weather anomalies within a long-term time series, (ii) model grape ripening revealing altered traits in time to target specific ripeness thresholds for four Vitis vinifera cultivars, and (iii) establish empirical relationships between ripening and weather anomalies with forecasting purposes. The Day of the Year (DOY) to reach specific grape ripeness targets was determined from time series of sugar concentrations, total acidity and pH collected from a private company in the period 2009-2021 in North-Eastern Italy. Non-linear models for the DOY to reach the specified ripeness thresholds were assessed for model efficiency (EF) and error of prediction (RMSE) in four grapevine cultivars (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Glera and Garganega). For each vintage and cultivar, advances or delays in DOY to target specified ripeness thresholds were assessed with respect to the average ripening dynamics. Long-term meteorological series monitored at ground weather station by means of hourly air temperature and rainfall data were analyzed. Climate statistics were obtained and for each time period (month, bimester, quarter and year) weather anomalies were identified. A linear regression analysis was performed to assess a possible correlation that may exist between ripening and weather anomalies. For each cultivar, ripeness advances or delays expressed in number of days to target the specific ripening threshold were assessed in relation to registered weather anomalies and the specific reference time period in the vintage. Precipitation of the warmest month and spring quarter are key to understanding the effect of climate change on sugar ripeness. Minimum temperatures of May-June bimester and maximum temperatures of spring quarter best correlate with altered total acidity evolution and pH increment during the ripening process, respectively.

Permanent cover cropping with reduced tillage increased resiliency of wine grape vineyards to climate change

Majority of California’s vineyards rely on supplemental irrigation to overcome abiotic stressors. In the context of climate change, increases in growing season temperatures and crop evapotranspiration pose a risk to adaptation of viticulture to climate change. Vineyard cover crops may mitigate soil erosion and preserve water resources; but there is a lack of information on how they contribute to vineyard resiliency under tillage systems. The aim of this study was to identify the optimum combination of cover crop sand tillage without adversely affecting productivity while preserving plant water status. Two experiments in two contrasting climatic regions were conducted with two cover crops, including a permanent short stature grass (P. bulbosa hybrid), barley (Hordeum spp), and resident vegetation under till vs. no-till systems in a Ruby Cabernet (V. vinifera spp.) (Fresno) and a Cabernet Sauvingon (Napa) vineyard. Results indicated that permanent grass under no-till preserved plant available water until E-L stage 17. Consequently, net carbon assimilation of the permanent grass under no-till system was enhanced compared to those with barley and resident vegetation. On the other hand, the barley under no-till system reduced grapevine net carbon assimilation during berry ripening that led to lower content of nonstructural carbohydrates in shoots at dormancy. Components of yield and berry composition including flavonoid profile at either site were not adversely affected by factors studied. Switching to a permanent cover crop under a no-till system also provided a 9% and 3% benefit in cultural practices costs in Fresno and Napa, respectively. The results of this work provides fundamental information to growers in preserving resiliency of vineyard systems in hot and warm climate regions under context of climate change.

Grape must quality and mesoclimatic variability in Fruška Gora wine-growing region, Serbia

The Fruška Gora mountain is a traditional wine-growing region in Serbia situated in the Pannonian Basin. Due to such a position, the vicinity of the Danube River and the presence of concave configuration, it is suitable for grape production. This paper provides analyses of spatial variations in meteorological parameters and grape juice quality within Fruška Gora wine region over three consecutive vintages (2018-2020). The examined period can be defined as warm with cool nights during September (AVG 18,9°C; GDD 1918°C; CI 12°CF) and with the presence of mesoclimatic variability. The East part of the study area was somewhat drier and hotter compared to other parts of the region. The analyses of grape must samples (190 in total) of five cultivars (Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc and Grašac (Welschriesling)) commonly grown across the region (19 sites), were performed using Fourier Transform Infrared Technology (FTIR). Among all cultivars, Sauvignon blanc was harvested first in the East area (DOY=246±5, GDD at harvest=1552±74, 22.2±0.7 °Brix), while the latest harvest was recorded for Cabernet-Sauvignon in the West (DOY=283±5, GDD at harvest=1936±187, 23.4±1.0 °Brix ). Both the red and white cultivars had higher acidity and YAN in the grape must if the vines were grown in the North and East compared to South and West areas. According to PCA analysis, Grašac showed the lowest variation in grape must chemical composition. Thus, the results confirm that Grašac is the most stable cultivar in Fruška Gora. All monitored cultivars reached technological fruit ripeness by the end of the growing season. However, it was difficult to reach full ripeness of red cultivars, mostly beacuse of uncoupling of technolocical and phenolic ripeness. Thus, Cabernet-Sauvignon had higher variations in GDD sums at harvest compared to other cultivars, which probably increased variations in grape must quality.

Grapevine varietal diversity as mitigation tool for climate change: Agronomic and oenologic potential of 14 foreign varieties grown in Languedoc region (France)

Climate change effects in Languedoc include an expected rise in temperatures, increased evapotranspiration as well as more severe and frequent climatic hazards, such as frost, drought periods and heat waves. For winegrowers theses phenomena impact both yield and quality, resulting in more frequent unbalanced wines. Research on identified mitigation tools for vineyard management is necessary to improve resilience of grapevine agrosystems. Varietal assortment is one of them. This study focuses on agronomic and oenologic potential of 14 foreign varieties grown in Languedoc French region. Fourteen grapevine varieties were monitored during 2021 from June until harvest on eight different sites, some of which occurring on more than one site adding up to 21 different modalities: 7 white varieties Alvarinho B, Assyrtiko B (2), Malvasia Istriana B, Parellada B, Verdejo B, Verdelho B, Xarello B, and 7 black varieties Saperavi N (2), Touriga nacional N, Baga N, Aleatico N, Montepulciano N (2), Primitivo N (3), Calabrese N (3). Varietals were compared through the following parameters: phenology was assessed by using the information collected in the Database Network of French Vine Conservatories (INRAE-SupAgro-IFV, 2005-2015). The number of inflorescences for shoots from secondary buds and bourillons and suckers were observed to assess post-bud break frost tolerance potential. Grapevine water status was studied through stem water potential measurement, observation of foliage symptoms of drought, and 𝛿13C on must. Frequencies and intensities of downy mildew, powdery mildew, and black rot attacks were estimated before harvest on leaves and clusters and botrytis at harvest to assess disease susceptibilities. Berry composition was monitored from end of veraison until harvest. Yield and mean bunch weight were also calculated. Varieties were then ranked on a 1-4 scale for each parameter and compared through PCA. Forty two stations of the Mediterranean basin were compared by PCA with the Multicriteria Climatic Classification indicators in order to confront the collected information during 2021 campaign to the hypothesis that plants coming from dry and hot regions are genetically adapted to such climatic conditions.