Territoire, terroir et marché du vin à la production

In this video recording of the IVES science meeting 2023, Jordi Ballester (Centre des sciences du goût et de l’alimentation, CNRS, INRAE, Institut Agro, Université Bourgogne Franche-Comté, Dijon, France) speaks on how to make a mineral wine, producers’ representations vs. scientific data. This presentation is based on an original article accessible for free on OENO One.

Traceability of agro-alimentary products is very important to certify their origin. This work aimed to characterize wines obtained by the same cultivar (Nero d’Avola and Fiano) – grown in regions with different soil and climate conditions during three vintages (2003-2005) – employing isotopic analyses (NMR and IRMS) and sensory analyses.

Bentonite fining is commonly used in oenology to remove all or parts of white wine proteins, which are known to be involved in haze formation. This fining is effective, but has disadvantages: it is not selective, thus molecules responsible for aroma are also removed, it causes substantial volume losses, and finally it generates wastes. Over the last decades, the knowledge of wine proteins has increased: they have been identified, their structures are known, some of them have been crystallized.

Knowledge has been accumulated on the impact of microclimate, in particular berry temperature and irradiation, for a wide range of red varieties. However, little research has been dedicated on the effects of the same factors on the quality of white grape varieties.

The characterization of the plant is the obliged pathway between the environment and the product. The responses of the plant amplify or reduce the variations of the environment, while determining directly the type and the quality of the products. These results are inscribed inside the Viticultural Terroir Unit (VTU). VTU is the complex interaction between the Basic Terroir Unit or BTU (interaction mesoclimate x soil/subsoil), the genotype (variety x rootstock), the management system, the oenological technologies. Thus, at the most complex level, a global biological triptych is found again : environment (source) x plant (structure) = produced and exchanged substances.