Aromatic maturity is a cornerstone of terroir expression in red wine

The Union defence of the “appellation Costières de Nîmes” hired a reflection on the future of its territory production in the interests of preservation and enhancement.

Nel 1990 la Cantina LA VIS ha intrapreso un progetto di zonazione dei terreni vitati allo scopo di acquisire le conoscenze scientifiche atte a consentire il miglioramento delle qualità dei prodotti. Tale progetto si è articolato su di una superficie di 2000 ettari ubicati lungo l’asta fluviale del fiume Adige da Trento a Salorno e del torrente Avisio da Lavis a Segonzano.

Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood) is one of the most remarkable Hungarian red wines on inland and foreign markets as well. From the end of the 70’s the quality of Egri Bikavér was decreasing continually due to mass production. The concept of production of quality wines became general in the mid 90’s again and it resulted in a new Origin Control System, for the first time that of Egri Bikavér in Hungary.

Making high quality but affordable Pinot noir (PN) wine is challenging in most terroirs and New Zealand’s (NZ) situation is no exception. To increase the probability of making highly typical PN wines producers choose to grow grapes in cool climates on lower fertility soils while adopting labour intensive practices. Stringent yield targets and higher input costs necessarily mean that PN wine cost is high, and profitability lower, in line-priced varietal wine ranges. To understand the reasons why higher yielding vines are perceived to produce wines of lower quality we have undertaken an extensive study of PN in NZ. Since 2018, we established a network of twelve trial sites in three NZ regions to find individual vines that produced acceptable commercial yields (above 2.5kg per vine) and wines of composition comparable to “Icon” labels. Approximately 20% of 660 grape lots (N = 135) were selected from within a narrow juice Total Soluble Solids (TSS) range and made into single vine wines under controlled conditions. Principal Component Analysis of the vine, berry, juice and wine parameters from three vintages found grape berry mass to be most effective clustering variable. As berry mass category decreased there was a systematic increase in the probability of higher berry red colour and total phenolics with a parallel increase in wine phenolics, changed aroma fraction and decreased juice amino acids. The influence of berry size on wine composition would appear stronger than the individual effects of vintage, region, vineyard or vine yield. Our observations support the hypothesis that it is possible to produce PN wines that fall within an “Icon” benchmark composition range at yields above 2.5kg per vine provided that the Leaf Area:Fruit Weight ratio is above 12cm2 per g, mean berry mass is below 1.2g and juice TSS is above 22°Brix.

Measurements of parameters spatialy positionned, with on line sensors mounted on classical machinery or airborne imagery is no more a problem in viticulture. In a short time, high resolution data dedicated to the assessment of the vine characteristics, the soil, the harvest, etc. will become a reality.