IVAS 2022 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 IVAS 9 IVAS 2022 9 The aroma diversity of Italian white wines: a further piece added to the D-Wines project

The aroma diversity of Italian white wines: a further piece added to the D-Wines project

Abstract

The wide ampelographic heritage of the Italian wine grape varieties represents a richness in terms of biodiversity and potential market value. According to the wine sector informative news, a rise in diversity will come into play due to the supply challenges of 2021 so that the industry will continue to push for a more diverse range of wines. “Wine drinkers, who are naturally curious, will embrace the opportunity to branch out”, due to a trend to a “palate
expansion and consumer curiosity” foreseen in 2022 (1). The report “White Wine Market” signed by the analysis company “Fact Market Research”, forecasts the boom in the growth of white wine consumption on the global market (2).Then, all actions aimed at valorizing and
improvi

The wide ampelographic heritage of the Italian wine grape varieties represents a richness in terms of biodiversity and potential market value. According to the wine sector informative news, a rise in diversity will come into play due to the supply challenges of 2021 so that the industry will continue to push for a more diverse range of wines. “Wine drinkers, who are naturally curious, will embrace the opportunity to branch out”, due to a trend to a “palate
expansion and consumer curiosity” foreseen in 2022 (1). The report “White Wine Market” signed by the analysis company “Fact Market Research”, forecasts the boom in the growth of white wine consumption on the global market (2).Then, all actions aimed at valorizing and
improving knowledge on products from the wide diversity of Italian native varieties can be impactful for the wine sector. The Diversity of Italian Wines (D-Wines) project aims to get a wide chemical, biochemical, and sensory multi-parametric dataset on Italian wines (3,4,5). In this context, the aroma of 18 mono-varietal white wines (Albana, Arneis, Cortese, Erbaluce, Garganega, Gewürztraminer, Greco di Tufo, Falanghina, Fiano, Lugana, Müller Thurgau, Nosiola, Pallagrello Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Ribolla Gialla, Verdicchio, Vermentino, Vernaccia di S. Gimignano) was investigated. A total of 240 labels (vintage 2019) was analyzed through a descriptive sensory assessment (orthonasal, retronasal, taste, mouthfeel) performed by 12 trained wine experts, and a sorting task carried out by 12 enologists (orthonasal, retronasal) based on a pre-defined list of aroma descriptors. Both intra- and inter-varietal sensory differences were highlighted by ANOVA (p<0.05) and Hierarchical Clustering Heatmap Analysis (HCHA) performed on odor intensities of descriptive analysis. 100% of Gewürztraminer wines were grouped together in a sub-cluster correlated to floral (rose, orange blossom), mango and vanilla odors, 62% of Müller Thurgau were closely clustered and correlated to thiolic (cat pee/box tree), fruity (passion fruit, grapefruit) and vegetal descriptors. The dendrogram mostly sorted the 240 wines into inter-varietal clusters. 

Multidimensional Scaling (MDS) and Agglomerative Hierarchical Clustering (AHC) of sorting data, provided intra-variety sensory maps showing how enologists grouped wines according to aroma similarities. A list of descriptors related to global sensory characteristics of samples within each group, was obtained. Both descriptive and sorting results, showed significant correlations with VOCs compositions.

This study provides a first comparative picture of the diverse sensory characteristics of white Italian wines, including some that have never been investigated before. The D-Wines project results will provide valuable information to winemakers, helping the improvement of the sensory consistency, quality, marketing communication and attractiveness of Italian wines

References

(1) https://www.decanter.com/features/top-wine-trends-for-2022
(2) https://winenews.it/en/the-boom-of-white-wine-in-the-world-as-seen-by-the-top-territories-of-italy_450979/
(3) Arapitsas et al. 2020, 68(47), 13353–13366; doi: 10.1021/acs.jafc.0c00879
(4) Giacosa et al. 2021, 143, 110277;  doi: 10.1016/j.foodres.2021.110277
(5) Piombino et al. 2020, 26(3), 233-246; doi : 10.1111/ajgw.1243

DOI:

Publication date: June 23, 2022

Issue: IVAS 2022

Type: Article

Authors

Piombino Paola1, Pittari Elisabetta1, Lisanti Maria Tiziana1, Parpinello Giuseppina Paola2, Ricci Arianna2, Carlin Silvia3, Curioni Andrea4, Luzzini Giovanni5, Marangon Matteo4, Mattivi Fulvio3, Rio Segade Susana6, Rolle Luca6, Ugliano Maurizio5 and Moio Luigi1

1 Department of Agricultural Sciences (DiA), University of Naples Federico II, Italy

2 Department of Agricultural and Food Sciences, University of Bologna, Italy

3 Research and Innovation Centre, Fondazione Edmund Mach (FEM), Italy

4 Department of Agronomy, Food, Natural Resources, Animals and Environment (DAFNAE), University of Padova, Italy

5 Department of Biotechnology, University of Verona, Italy

6 Department of Agricultural, Forest and Food Sciences (DISAFA), University of Torino, Italy

Contact the author

Keywords

White wines, Italian varieties, diversity, sensory analysis, olfactory profiles

Tags

IVAS 2022 | IVES Conference Series

Citation

Related articles…

Combining effect of leaf removal and natural shading on grape ripening under two irrigation strategies in Manto negro (Vitis vinifera L.)

The increasingly frequent heat waves during grape ripening pose challenges for high quality wine grape production. Defoliation is a common practice that can improve the control of diseases in bunches, but also it increases the exposure to sunlight. Grapes exposed to solar radiation reach temperatures over the optimum for berry development and maturation. This makes the development of irrigation and canopy management techniques of great importance to maximize yield and grape quality. A field experiment was carried out during 2021 using Manto negro wine grapes to study the effect of applied irrigation and different light exposure levels on grape quality. Two irrigation treatments were imposed based on the frequency and amount of water doses in a four-block experimental vineyard at Bodega Ribas (Mallorca). Three light exposure treatments were randomly applied in each irrigation plot. The light treatments included exposed clusters from pea size, non-exposed clusters, and shaded clusters after softening. Leaf area index and canopy porosity was estimated every 2 weeks. Midday leaf water potential was measured weekly. Additionally, apparent electrical conductivity was measured between rows to estimate the soil water content variability. Light and temperature sensors were installed at the bunch level to quantify the differences in bunch temperature and light intensity among treatments. The effect of irrigation and cluster light exposure on berry weight, TSS, TA, malic acid, tartaric acid, K+, and pH were analysed at 5 moments along grape ripening. During different heat waves, the natural shading technique decreased the maximum bunch temperature around 10 °C respect to the exposed bunches in both irrigation strategies. The combination of defoliation and shading techniques after softening decreased TSS at harvest and affected most of the quality parameters during the last stages of ripening, showing an interesting technique to delay ripening in warm viticulture areas.

The modification of cultural practices in grapevine cv. Syrah, does it modify the characteristics of the musts?

The work shows the results of a year of experimentation (2020) in a Syrah variety vineyard in La Roda (Castilla-La Mancha, Spain). The trial approach was on a randomized block design with two factors: Irrigation (I) and Pruning (P).
Irrigation schedules were adjusted to apply amounts close to 1,500 m3/ha. With this provision, 2 different irrigation treatments were proposed: I1) Start of irrigation from pea-sized grape to post-harvest (providing at least 20 % of the total amount of irrigation water to be provided post-harvest); I2) Start of irrigation from pea-sized grape to harvest (usual irrigation practice in the study area). Pruning was proposed with two treatments, one at the end of January (P1), which is pruning on a conventional date; and P2) pruning carried out at the beginning of budding. In total, 4 repetitions were designed with 4 elementary plots, each one of them representing one of the proposed treatments (I1P1; I1P2; I2P1; I2P2). In total, 16 plots were worked on and each elementary plot consisted of 30 strains, distributed in 3 lines.
The productive response was evaluated with the yield results of the harvest harvested at 23 ºBrix. The qualitative response was measured in the musts through the indices of technological (acidity, pH and potassium) and phenolic maturity and aromatic compounds in free and glycosylated fractions. The treatments tested had, in general, an effect on the different variables analyzed.

Characterization of variety-specific changes in bulk stomatal conductance in response to changes in atmospheric demand and drought stress

In wine growing regions around the world, climate change has the potential to affect vine transpiration and overall vineyard water use due to related changes in atmospheric demand and soil water deficits. Grapevines control their transpiration in response to a changing environment by regulating conductance of water through the soil-plant-atmosphere continuum. Most vineyard water use models currently estimate vine transpiration by applying generic crop coefficients to estimates of reference evapotranspiration, but this does not account for changes in vine conductance associated with water stress, nor differences thought to exist between varieties. The response of bulk stomatal conductance to daily weather variability and seasonal drought stress was studied on Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo, Ugni blanc, and Semillon vines in a non-irrigated vineyard in Bordeaux France. Whole vine sap flow, temperature and humidity in the vine canopy, and net radiation absorbed by the vine canopy were measured on 15-minute intervals from early July through mid-September 2020, together with periodic measurement of leaf area, canopy porosity, and predawn leaf water potential. From this data, bulk stomatal conductance was calculated on 15-minute intervals, and multiple regression analysis was performed to identify key variables and their relative effect on conductance. Attention was focused on addressing multicollinearity and time-dependency in the explanatory variables and developing regression models that were readily interpretable. Variability of vapor pressure deficit over the day, and predawn water potential over the season explained much of the variability in conductance, with relative differences in response coefficients observed across the five varieties. By characterizing this conductance response, the dynamics of vine transpiration can be better parameterized in vineyard water use modeling of current and future climate scenarios.

Sustaining wine identity through intra-varietal diversification

With contemporary climate change, cultivated Vitis vinifera L. is at risk as climate is a critical component in defining ecologically fitted plant materiel. While winegrowers can draw on the rich diversity among grapevine varieties to limit expected impacts (Morales-Castilla et al., 2020), replacing a signature variety that has created a sense of local distinctiveness may lead to several challenges. In order to sustain wine identity in uncertain climate outcomes, the study of intra-varietal diversity is important to reflect the adaptive and evolutionary potential of current cultivated varieties. The aim of this ongoing study is to understand to what extent can intra-varietal diversity be a climate change adaptation solution. With a focus on early (Sauvignon blanc, Riesling, Grolleau, Pinot noir) to moderate late (Chenin, Petit Verdot, Cabernet franc) ripening varieties, data was collected for flowering and veraison for the various studied accessions (from conservatory plots) and clones. For these phenological growing stages, heat requirements were established using nearby weather stations (adapted from the GFV model, Parker et al., 2013) and model performances were verified. Climate change projections were then integrated to predict the future behaviour of the intra-varietal diversity. Study findings highlight the strong phenotypic diversity of studied varieties and the importance of diversification to enhance climate change resilience. While model performances may require improvements, this study is the first step towards quantifying heat requirements of different clones and how they can provide adaptation solutions for winegrowers to sustain local wine identity in a global changing climate. As genetic diversity is an ongoing process through point mutations and epigenetic adaptations, perspective work is to explore clonal data from a wide variety of geographic locations.

Soil, vine, climate change – what is observed – what is expected

To evaluate the current and future impact of climate change on Viticulture requires an integrated view on a complex interacting system within the soil-plant-atmospheric continuum under continuous change. Aside of the globally observed increase in temperature in basically all viticulture regions for at least four decades, we observe several clear trends at the regional level in the ratio of precipitation to potential evapotranspiration. Additionally the recently published 6th assessment report of the IPCC (The physical science basis) shows case-dependent further expected shifts in climate patterns which will have substantial impacts on the way we will conduct viticulture in the decades to come.
Looking beyond climate developments, we observe rising temperatures in the upper soil layers which will have an impact on the distribution of microbial populations, the decay rate of organic matter or the storage capacity for carbon, thus affecting the emission of greenhouse gases (GHGs) and the viscosity of water in the soil-plant pathway, altering the transport of water. If the upper soil layers dry out faster due to less rainfall and/or increased evapotranspiration driven by higher temperatures, the spectral reflection properties of bare soil change and the transport of latent heat into the fruiting zone is increased putting a higher temperature load on the fruit. Interactions between micro-organisms in the rhizosphere and the grapevine root system are poorly understood but respond to environmental factors (such as increased soil temperatures) and the plant material (rootstock for instance), respectively the cultivation system (for example bio-organic versus conventional). This adds to an extremely complex system to manage in terms of increased resilience, adaptation to and even mitigation of climate change. Nevertheless, taken as a whole, effects on the individual expressions of wines with a given origin, seem highly likely to become more apparent.