Comparison of aroma-related compounds of carbonic maceration and traditional young red winemaking in case of Merlot by means of targeted metabolomic approach

The present study was performed in a traditional winery located in the viticultural area of Brunello di Montalcino, Siena, Italy, in the vintage 2015. Actually, in this winery Sangiovese grape musts are fermented in large oak barrels by a single strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae previously isolated in the same winery. Pumping over operations are carried out once or twice a day until the end of alcoholic fermentations. The aim of this work was to investigate on the oenological properties of Sangiovese wine produced with the traditional winemaking process adopted by the winery under study obtained from the fermentation of whole berries compared to that from crushed grape must. In particular, two lots of 65q of Sangiovese grapes from the same 3ha vineyard were vinified in 150hL oak barrels.

Barrel ageing is a crucial step in the wine process because it allows many changes to the wine as enrichment, colour stabilization, clarification and also a slow oxygenation. Effects of the oak barrel have to be known to prevent oxidation of the wine. The type of bung used during ageing is also a parameter to consider. Ageing sweet wines in barrel is a real challenge. These wines may need some oxygen at the beginning of ageing but they should be protected at the end of their maturation, to avoid oxidation.

With climate change, it is progressively more often to obtain grapes with an acceptable content in sugars or acids but with immature tannins described as green, aggressive or hard (noted as GAH onwards). During winemaking, the oenologist has to make decisions related to the elaboration of such grapes based mainly on empirical experience, given the lack of objective criteria to this concern. An increase in the chemical and sensory knowledge of immature tannins would allow managing this GAH character of grapes with the maximum possible efficiency during winemaking processes. The present work aims at isolating and identifying the group of compounds responsible for the GAH character present in wines.

Sessile oak and pedunculate oak have shown several differences of interest for enological purposes. Tannic and aromatic composition among sessile oak or pedonculate oak has been well studied. Sessile oak is generally more aromatic than pedunculated, while the later is more tannic. This scientific point of view is rarely applied to classify oak in cooperages. Most coopers use the type of grain to distinguish wide and thin grain.

The aromas found in young Bordeaux red wines made with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon suggest a complex mixture of aromas of fresh red fruits such as cherry or blackberry for Merlot, and strawberry or blackcurrant for Cabernet Sauvignon. The aromas of these wines are closely linked with the maturity of the grapes. The climate change that has occurred during the last decade in Bordeaux has induced changes in the ripening conditions of grape berries. It is now widely admitted that over-ripening of the berries during hot and dry summers results in the development of characteristic flavors reminiscent of cooked fruits (fig, prune). The presence of these overriding odors found in both musts and young wines affects the quality and subtlety of the wine flavor and may shorten its shelf life.