Yield formation and grape composition: more than meets the eye 

Cabernet Sauvignon is one of the most cultivated grape varieties worldwide being grown in different environmental conditions due to its excellent adaptability. Volatile compounds deeply contribute to the sensory properties of wines therefore to wine quality. The aim of this work was to compare the aroma profile of Cabernet Sauvignon wines from different geographical areas and climatic conditions, namely from Argentina, Portugal and Spain, from the vintage 2022. In addition, the volatile composition of the Cabernet Sauvignon Portuguese wines from three vintages was evaluated.

Globalisation and climate change have radically transformed world wine production upsetting the established order of wine ecologies. Ecological risks and the future of traditional agricultural systems are widely debated in anthropology, but very little is understood of the particular challenges posed by climate change to viticulture which is seen by many as the canary in the coalmine of global agriculture. Moreover, wine as a globalised embedded commodity provides a particularly telling example for the study of climate change having already attracted early scientific attention. Studies of climate change in viticulture have focused primarily on the production of systematic models of adaptation and vulnerability, while the human and cultural factors, which are key to adaptation and sustainable futures, are largely missing. Climate experts have been unanimous in recognising the urgent need for a better understanding of the complex dynamics that shape how climate change is experienced and responded to by human systems. Yet this call has not yet been addressed. Climate ethnography, coined by the anthropologist Susan Crate (2011), aims to bridge this growing disjuncture between climate science and everyday life through the exploration of the social meaning of climate change. It seeks to investigate the confrontation of its social salience in different locations and under different environmental guises (Goodman 2018: 340). By understanding how wine producers make sense of the world (and the environment) and act in it, it proposes to focus on the co-production of interdisciplinary knowledge by identifying and foreshadowing problems (Goodman 2018: 342; Goodman & Marshall 2018). It seeks to offer an original, transformative and contrasted perspective to climate change scenarios by investigating human agency -individual or collective- in all its social, political and cultural diversity. An anthropological approach founded on detailed ethnographies of wine production is ideally placed to address economic, social and cultural disruptions caused by the emergence of these new environmental challenges. Indeed, the community of experts in environmental change have recently called for research that will encompass the human dimension and for more broad-based, integrated through interdisciplinarity, useful knowledge (Castree & al 2014). My paper seeks to engage with climate ethnography and discuss what it brings to the study of wine environmental futures while exploring the limitations of the anthropological environmental approach.

The wine yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae can highly affect wine aromatic profile by producing and/or mediating the release of a whole range of metabolites (such as thiols, esters, and terpenes), which in turn contribute to enhanced aroma and flavor. These metabolites depend on yeast metabolism activated during fermentation which can constitute the ‘’metabolic footprint’’ of the yeast strain that carried out the process.

The composition of grape berry cell walls was studied on two grape varieties, two years and two maturation levels at the same time as the extraction of anthocyanins and tannins. The chemical composition of skins, seeds, and pulps, focused on polyphenols and polysaccharides, was compared to the chemical composition in polyphenols after extraction from the skins in model solutions or after wine making of the berries. Polyphenols were mainly characterized by UPLC-MS and HPLC-SEC. Polysaccharides were characterized by analysis of the neutral sugar compositions, and also by the CoMPP (comprehensive micropolymer profiling) analysis, a new method which targets the functional groups of cell wall polysaccharides.

Deciphering grapevine dormancy is crucial in the current context of climatic challenges: advancing budburst phenology and increased late frost probabilities, observed in the last decades and expected to further increase, require deeper understanding. Beyond higher mean temperatures, abiotic stresses such as water deficit have also been emphasized as actors. In this framework, we aimed at exploring new methodologies for tracking dormancy cycle and testing the interplay on its regulation of temperature dynamics and drought.
In a first experiment, twenty-one Vitis vinifera varieties were monitored during ecodormancy and budburst over three years.