Terroir 2010 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 International Terroir Conferences 9 Terroir 2010 9 Ancient zoning in the world (T2010) 9 Storia del prosecco e del suo territorio di produzione: un percorso di studi in continuo progresso

Storia del prosecco e del suo territorio di produzione: un percorso di studi in continuo progresso

Abstract

Nella realtà viticola Italiana il Prosecco è uno degli esempi più evidenti di un percorso storico che ha saputo valorizzare lo stretto legame tra vitigno e territorio d’origine.A partire dalla fine del ‘700, periodo nel quale le prime testimonianze riportano la presenza di questo vitigno nel luogo che ne ha dato fama e notorietà, diversi studi hanno contribuito all’individuazione degli elementi storici ed ambientali attestanti l’indiscusso valore di questo contesto unico e irripetibile.Le ricerche dell’ ‘800 hanno preso le mosse da un’approfondita caratterizzazione ampelografica del vitigno, dei suoi biotipi già anticamente noti e delle loro potenzialità viticole ed enologiche. Nel corso del ‘900 l’attenzione si è poi spostata anche all’ambiente di coltivazione, cercando di estrapolarne i principali caratteri morfologici e climatici e di coglierne gli effetti sulla successione fenologica, sulla produzione e sulla macrostruttura dell’uva. Negli anni ’90 l’esigenza di applicare nella pratica agricola quotidiana i risultati scientifici ottenuti in questi primi studi e la concomitante evoluzione delle metodologie di indagine, ha portato all’approccio pluridisciplinare che caratterizza gli attuali studi di zonazione. Grazie a questi, e sulla scorta delle informazioni climatiche e podologiche acquisite e a tecniche e strumentazioni sempre più evoluti sono stati impostati due importanti lavori di zonazione: il primo riguardante l’area orientale della DOCG Conegliano-Valdobbiadene o DOC Colli di Conegliano (1997-1999) e il successivo esteso alla parte occidentale della DOCG Conegliano-Valdobbiadene (2003-2006). Queste indagini hanno portato ad un approfondita conoscenza dell’areale produttivo storico di questo vitigno, evidenziando come a diverse condizioni climatiche e podologiche il Prosecco risponda con caratteristiche produttive diverse (rese, contenuti zuccherini, contenuti aromatici). Ciò concorre a rafforzare il legame tra vitigno e territorio, confermandone il ruolo fondamentale nel determinare la tipicità e l’unicità di questo vino.

English version: The Prosecco is one of the most important examples in Italy of a territory that through a long study process established its success in the strong linkage between wine and its original area. Since the end of 1700, when first evidences can be found about the presence of the Prosecco in this territory, many studies have contributed in better understanding the historical and environmental elements accountable for its success and notoriety. In 1800 the research started with the amphelographic characterization of the variety and with the study of its different biotipes and their viticultural and oenological potential. In the curse of 1900 the attention of reaserchers moved to the environment, with the aim at identifying the factors with major impact on vine physiology, yield and quality. The need to practically apply the results of these first scientific studies, together with the development of new technologies, led in the 90s to the multidisciplinary approach that characterizes the modern zoning studies. Basing on the pedologic and climatic information collected along two centuries, two important zoning projects were developed: the first (1997-1999) involved the Colli di Conegliano AOC district (Eastern part of the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene AOCG), while the second (2003-2006) focused on the Western part of the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene AOCG. These two investigations led to a better knowledge of the historical Prosecco area, highlighting how different environmental conditions may have an impact on the performance of this variety with important effects on yield, sugar content and aromatic composition of the grapes. The results contributed to strengthen the linkage between Prosecco and its territory and confirmed the importance of the production area in determining the uniqueness and tipicality of this product.

DOI:

Publication date: October 1, 2020

Issue: Terroir 2010

Type: Article

Authors

F. Gaiotti, P. Marcuzzo, F. Battista, L. Lovat, D. Tomasi

CRA-Centro di Ricerca per la Viticoltura, Viale 28 Aprile 26, Conegliano, Italy

Contact the author

Keywords

Zoning, Prosecco, Conegliano, Valdobbiadene, Climate, Soil

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2010

Citation

Related articles…

Impact of changes in pruning practices on vine growth and yield

A gradual decline in vineyards has been observed over the past twenty years worldwide. This might be explained by the climate change, practices change or the increase of dieback diseases. To increase the longevity of vines, we studied the impact of different pruning strategies in four adult and four young vineyards located in France and Spain. In France, vineyards were planted with Cabernet franc on 3309C while Spanish trials were planted with Tempranillo grafted on 110R. Vegetative expression, yield, quality of berries and wood vessels conductivity were measured. The distribution of vegetative expression, yield and berry composition between primary and secondary vegetation were quantified. Finally, tomography was used to evaluate the implication of the treatments on sap flows. First results show that i) the respectful pruning leads to an increase of 30 to 50% more secondary shoots than the aggressive pruning in France and between 15 and 20% in Spain, ii) there is no major effect on the yield over the first two years following the implementation of the new pruning practices, although the proportion of clusters from suckers is higher on the respectful pruning method. On young vines, the development of the trunk according to a respectful pruning leads to a loss of harvest 2 years after planting. This is due to the removal, on the future trunk, of the green suckers which carrying bunches. This operation carried out in spring rather than during winter pruning, would promote a better leaf / fruit balance when the plant comes into production, and could lead to better hydraulic conduction in the vessels of the trunk. Maintaining these trials for several years will provide more robust data to assess the impact of these practices on the vines over the long term.

The effects of alternative herbicide free cover cropping systems on soil health, vine performance, berry quality and vineyard biodiversity in a climate change scenario in Switzerland

There is an urgent need in viticulture to adopt alternative herbicide-free soil management strategies to mitigate climate change, increase biodiversity, reduce plant protection products and improve soil quality while minimizing detrimental effects on grapevine’s stress tolerance and fruit quality. To propose sustainable solutions, adapted to different pedoclimatic conditions in Switzerland, we developed a multidisciplinary 4-year project, started in 2020. Objectives of the project are to a) evaluate the impact of green covers (spontaneous flora, winter cover crop and permanent ground cover) on environmental and agronomic parameters and b) develop subsequently innovative strategies for different viticultural contexts of Switzerland. The project is divided into 3 phases: 1) diagnosis, 2) on-farm and 3) on-station experiments. Phase 1) consisted in an assessment of 30 commercial vineyards all over Switzerland, where growers already use different herbicide-free soil management strategies. The most promising practices identified in this exploratory phase will be replicated in commercial vineyards across Switzerland (“on-farm”) as well as in a classical randomized block design in an experimental plot (“on-station”). For phase 1), measurements consisted in evaluation of soil status (compaction, structure, roots development), soil microbial diversity (metagenomics), plant diversity and biomass, vine physiology (water stress, vigor, leaf nitrogen) and berry quality (acidity, sugar, available nitrogen). Interestingly, the permanent ground cover resulted in a higher Shannon index thus a higher biodiversity as compared to the other itineraries. The winter cover crop increased vine nitrogen and vigor while deteriorating soil quality, leaving the soil more exposed and compacted likely due to more frequent tillage. The spontaneous flora led to higher berry sugar accumulation, less nitrogen and higher malic acid concentration putatively due to a higher water retention of the flora in a particularly wet vintage. Phases 2) and 3) are required to confirm those tendencies, over the 3 next vintages and different climatic conditions.

Under-vine management effects on grapevine production, soil properties and plant communities in South Australia

Under-vine (UV) management has traditionally consisted of synthetic herbicide use to limit competition between weeds and grapevines. With growing global interest towards non-synthetic chemical use, this study aimed to capture the effects of alternative UV management at two commercial Shiraz vineyards in South Australia, where the sole management variables were UV management since 2016. In adjacent treatment blocks, cultivation (CU) was compared to spontaneous vegetation (SV) in McLaren Vale (MV), and herbicide was compared to SV in Eden Valley (EV). Soil water infiltration rates were slower and grapevine stem water potential was lower in CU compared to SV in MV, with the latter having a plant community dominated by soursob (Oxalis pes-caprae) during winter; while in EV, there was little separation between the treatments. Yields were affected at both sites, with SV being higher in MV and HE being higher in EV. In MV, the only effect on grape must was a lower 13C:12C isotope ratio in CU, indicating greater grapevine water stress. In the grape must at EV, SV had higher total soluble solids, total phenolics, anthocyanins, and yeast available nitrogen; and lower pH and titratable acidity. Pruning weights were not affected by the treatments in MV, while they were higher in HE at EV. Assessments revealed that the differing soil types at the two sites were likely the main determinants of the opposing production outcomes associated with UV management. In the silty loam soil of MV, the higher yields in SV were likely due to more plant-available water, as a potential result of the continuous soil bio-pores formed by winter UV vegetation. Conversely, in the loamy sand soils of EV with a lower cation exchange capacity, the lower yields and pruning weights in SV suggest the UV vegetation competed significantly with the grapevines for available water and nutrients.

20-Year-Old data set: scion x rootstock x climate, relationships. Effects on phenology and sugar dynamics

Global warming is one of the biggest environmental, social, and economic threats. In the Douro Valley, change to the climate are expected in the coming years, namely an increase in average temperature and a decrease in annual precipitation. Since vine cultivation is extremely vulnerable and influenced by the climate, these changes are likely to have negative effects on the production and quality of wine.
Adaptation is a major challenge facing the viticulture sector where the choice of plant material plays an important role, particularly the rootstock as it is a driver for adaptation with a wide range of effects, the most important being phylloxera, nematode and salt, tolerance to drought and a complex set of interactions in the grafted plant.
In an experimental vineyard, established in the Douro Region in 1997, with four randomized blocs, with five varieties, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz, grafted in four rootstocks, Rupestris du Lot, R110, 196-17C, R99 and 1103P, data was collected consecutively over 20 years (2001-2020). Phenological observations were made two to three times a week, following established criteria, to determine the average dates of budbreak, flowering and veraison. During maturation, weekly berry samples were taken to study the dynamics of sugar accumulation, amongst other parameters. Climate data was collected from a weather station located near the vineyard parcel, with data classified through several climatic indices.
The results achieved show a very low coefficient of variations in the average date of the phenophases and an important contribution from the rootstock in the dynamic of the phenology, allowing a delay in the cycle of up to10-12 days for the different combinations. The Principal Component Analysis performed, evaluating trends in the physical-chemical parameters, highlighted the effect of the climate and rootstock on fruit quality by grape varieties.

From a local to an international scale: sensory benchmarking of PDO wines. Quincy and Reuilly PDO wines (Sauvignon blanc) as a case study (France)

In a collective marketing strategy, the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) can be used as a quality indicator. To highlight terroir specificities, it is useful to know how the wines are positioned on the local, national or international market from a sensory point of view. This is especially true for a comparison of varietal wines (e.g. Sauvignon blanc). We focus on the case of two closed Loire Valley PDO (France): Quincy and Reuilly. Three distinct tastings were organized. Firstly, at the local level comparing the 2 PDO (11 and 9 wines, 17 professional assessors); secondly at a regional level adding 3 closed PDO: Menetou-Salon, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé (3 wines per PDO, 16 assessors) and thirdly at an international level comparing these 5 PDO with Sauvignon Blanc wines coming from South Africa, New Zealand and Chile (1 to 3 wines per PDO, 19 assessors). All the wines were from the 2019 vintage and were considered to have a traditional elaboration process without contact with oak. A sensory descriptive analysis was performed using an aroma wheel allowing to combine a Check-All-That-Apply methodology, often used in sensory benchmarking, with a hierarchical structuration of the attributes. The aim is to facilitate data acquisition in a professional context without common training, to consider the hierarchical relationships among the attributes during the data analysis and to be able to characterize wines with a large range of sensorial variability. We use univariate, multivariate and clustering analyses. Similarities and differences between Quincy and Reuilly PDO wines and other Sauvignon blanc wines were identified. Specific attributes can distinguish the two PDO and different proximities exist with other local PDO, while clear differences were observed compared to international wines. Our study contributes to propose and discuss a method to do a wine sensory benchmarking highlighting sensory specificities linked to origin.