Terroir 2010 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 International Terroir Conferences 9 Terroir 2010 9 Ancient zoning in the world (T2010) 9 Storia del prosecco e del suo territorio di produzione: un percorso di studi in continuo progresso

Storia del prosecco e del suo territorio di produzione: un percorso di studi in continuo progresso

Abstract

Nella realtà viticola Italiana il Prosecco è uno degli esempi più evidenti di un percorso storico che ha saputo valorizzare lo stretto legame tra vitigno e territorio d’origine.A partire dalla fine del ‘700, periodo nel quale le prime testimonianze riportano la presenza di questo vitigno nel luogo che ne ha dato fama e notorietà, diversi studi hanno contribuito all’individuazione degli elementi storici ed ambientali attestanti l’indiscusso valore di questo contesto unico e irripetibile.Le ricerche dell’ ‘800 hanno preso le mosse da un’approfondita caratterizzazione ampelografica del vitigno, dei suoi biotipi già anticamente noti e delle loro potenzialità viticole ed enologiche. Nel corso del ‘900 l’attenzione si è poi spostata anche all’ambiente di coltivazione, cercando di estrapolarne i principali caratteri morfologici e climatici e di coglierne gli effetti sulla successione fenologica, sulla produzione e sulla macrostruttura dell’uva. Negli anni ’90 l’esigenza di applicare nella pratica agricola quotidiana i risultati scientifici ottenuti in questi primi studi e la concomitante evoluzione delle metodologie di indagine, ha portato all’approccio pluridisciplinare che caratterizza gli attuali studi di zonazione. Grazie a questi, e sulla scorta delle informazioni climatiche e podologiche acquisite e a tecniche e strumentazioni sempre più evoluti sono stati impostati due importanti lavori di zonazione: il primo riguardante l’area orientale della DOCG Conegliano-Valdobbiadene o DOC Colli di Conegliano (1997-1999) e il successivo esteso alla parte occidentale della DOCG Conegliano-Valdobbiadene (2003-2006). Queste indagini hanno portato ad un approfondita conoscenza dell’areale produttivo storico di questo vitigno, evidenziando come a diverse condizioni climatiche e podologiche il Prosecco risponda con caratteristiche produttive diverse (rese, contenuti zuccherini, contenuti aromatici). Ciò concorre a rafforzare il legame tra vitigno e territorio, confermandone il ruolo fondamentale nel determinare la tipicità e l’unicità di questo vino.

English version: The Prosecco is one of the most important examples in Italy of a territory that through a long study process established its success in the strong linkage between wine and its original area. Since the end of 1700, when first evidences can be found about the presence of the Prosecco in this territory, many studies have contributed in better understanding the historical and environmental elements accountable for its success and notoriety. In 1800 the research started with the amphelographic characterization of the variety and with the study of its different biotipes and their viticultural and oenological potential. In the curse of 1900 the attention of reaserchers moved to the environment, with the aim at identifying the factors with major impact on vine physiology, yield and quality. The need to practically apply the results of these first scientific studies, together with the development of new technologies, led in the 90s to the multidisciplinary approach that characterizes the modern zoning studies. Basing on the pedologic and climatic information collected along two centuries, two important zoning projects were developed: the first (1997-1999) involved the Colli di Conegliano AOC district (Eastern part of the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene AOCG), while the second (2003-2006) focused on the Western part of the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene AOCG. These two investigations led to a better knowledge of the historical Prosecco area, highlighting how different environmental conditions may have an impact on the performance of this variety with important effects on yield, sugar content and aromatic composition of the grapes. The results contributed to strengthen the linkage between Prosecco and its territory and confirmed the importance of the production area in determining the uniqueness and tipicality of this product.

DOI:

Publication date: October 1, 2020

Issue: Terroir 2010

Type: Article

Authors

F. Gaiotti, P. Marcuzzo, F. Battista, L. Lovat, D. Tomasi

CRA-Centro di Ricerca per la Viticoltura, Viale 28 Aprile 26, Conegliano, Italy

Contact the author

Keywords

Zoning, Prosecco, Conegliano, Valdobbiadene, Climate, Soil

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2010

Citation

Related articles…

Measurement of redox potential as a new analytical winegrowing tool

Excell laboratory has initiated the development of an analytical method based on electrochemistry to evaluate the ability of wines to undergo or resist to oxidative phenomena. Electrochemistry is a powerful tool to probe reactions involving electron transfers and offers possibility of real-time measurements. In that context, the laboratory has implemented electrochemical analysis to assess oxidation state of different wine matrices but also in order to evaluate oxidative or reduced character of leaf and soil. Initially, our laboratory focused on dosage of compounds involved in responses of plant stresses and we were also interested in microbiological activity of soils. These analyses were compared with the measurement of redox potential (Eh) and pH which are two fundamental variables involved in the modulation of plant metabolism. Indeed, the variation of redox states of the plant reflects its biological activity but also its capacity to absorb nutriments. The Eh-pH conditions mainly determine metabolic processes involved in soil and leaf and our goal is to determine if this combined analytical approach will be sufficiently precise to detect biological evolutions (plant health, parasitic attack…).

From a local to an international scale: sensory benchmarking of PDO wines. Quincy and Reuilly PDO wines (Sauvignon blanc) as a case study (France)

In a collective marketing strategy, the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) can be used as a quality indicator. To highlight terroir specificities, it is useful to know how the wines are positioned on the local, national or international market from a sensory point of view. This is especially true for a comparison of varietal wines (e.g. Sauvignon blanc). We focus on the case of two closed Loire Valley PDO (France): Quincy and Reuilly. Three distinct tastings were organized. Firstly, at the local level comparing the 2 PDO (11 and 9 wines, 17 professional assessors); secondly at a regional level adding 3 closed PDO: Menetou-Salon, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé (3 wines per PDO, 16 assessors) and thirdly at an international level comparing these 5 PDO with Sauvignon Blanc wines coming from South Africa, New Zealand and Chile (1 to 3 wines per PDO, 19 assessors). All the wines were from the 2019 vintage and were considered to have a traditional elaboration process without contact with oak. A sensory descriptive analysis was performed using an aroma wheel allowing to combine a Check-All-That-Apply methodology, often used in sensory benchmarking, with a hierarchical structuration of the attributes. The aim is to facilitate data acquisition in a professional context without common training, to consider the hierarchical relationships among the attributes during the data analysis and to be able to characterize wines with a large range of sensorial variability. We use univariate, multivariate and clustering analyses. Similarities and differences between Quincy and Reuilly PDO wines and other Sauvignon blanc wines were identified. Specific attributes can distinguish the two PDO and different proximities exist with other local PDO, while clear differences were observed compared to international wines. Our study contributes to propose and discuss a method to do a wine sensory benchmarking highlighting sensory specificities linked to origin.

Phenological characterization of a wide range of Vitis Vinifera varieties

In order to study the impact of climate change on Bordeaux grape varieties and to assess the adaptation capacities of candidates to the grape varieties of this wine region to the new climatic conditions, an experimental block design composed of 52 grape varieties was set up in 2009 at the INRAE Bordeaux Aquitaine center. Among the many parameters studied, the three main phenological stages of the vine (budburst, flowering and veraison) have been closely monitored since 2012. Observations for each year, stage and variety were carried out on four independent replicates. Precocity indices have been calculated from the data obtained over the 2012-2021 period (Barbeau et al. 1998). This work allowed to group the phenological behaviour of the grapevine varieties, not only based on the timing of the subsequent developmental stages, but also on the overall precocity of the cycle and the total length of the cycle between budburst and veraison. Results regarding the variability observed among the different grape varieties for these phenological stages are presented as heat maps.

Combining effect of leaf removal and natural shading on grape ripening under two irrigation strategies in Manto negro (Vitis vinifera L.)

The increasingly frequent heat waves during grape ripening pose challenges for high quality wine grape production. Defoliation is a common practice that can improve the control of diseases in bunches, but also it increases the exposure to sunlight. Grapes exposed to solar radiation reach temperatures over the optimum for berry development and maturation. This makes the development of irrigation and canopy management techniques of great importance to maximize yield and grape quality. A field experiment was carried out during 2021 using Manto negro wine grapes to study the effect of applied irrigation and different light exposure levels on grape quality. Two irrigation treatments were imposed based on the frequency and amount of water doses in a four-block experimental vineyard at Bodega Ribas (Mallorca). Three light exposure treatments were randomly applied in each irrigation plot. The light treatments included exposed clusters from pea size, non-exposed clusters, and shaded clusters after softening. Leaf area index and canopy porosity was estimated every 2 weeks. Midday leaf water potential was measured weekly. Additionally, apparent electrical conductivity was measured between rows to estimate the soil water content variability. Light and temperature sensors were installed at the bunch level to quantify the differences in bunch temperature and light intensity among treatments. The effect of irrigation and cluster light exposure on berry weight, TSS, TA, malic acid, tartaric acid, K+, and pH were analysed at 5 moments along grape ripening. During different heat waves, the natural shading technique decreased the maximum bunch temperature around 10 °C respect to the exposed bunches in both irrigation strategies. The combination of defoliation and shading techniques after softening decreased TSS at harvest and affected most of the quality parameters during the last stages of ripening, showing an interesting technique to delay ripening in warm viticulture areas.

Influence of grapevine rootstock/scion combination on rhizosphere and root endophytic microbiomes

Soil is a reservoir of microorganisms playing important roles in biogeochemical cycles and interacting with plants whether in the rhizosphere or in the root endosphere. The composition of the microbial communities thus impacts the plant health. Rhizodeposits (such as sugar, organic and amino acids, secondary metabolites, dead root cells …) are released by the roots and influence the communities of rhizospheric microorganisms, acting as signaling compounds or carbon sources for microbes. The composition of root exudates varies depending on several factors including genotypes. As most of the cultivated grapevines worldwide are grafted plants, the aim of this study was to explore the influence of rootstock and scion genotypes on the microbial communities of the rhizosphere and the root endosphere. The work was conducted in the GreffAdapt plot (55 rootstocks x 5 scions), in which the 275 combinations have been planted into 3 blocks designed according to the soil resistivity. Samples of roots and rhizosphere of 10 scion x rootstock combinations were first collected in May among the blocks 2 and 3. The quantities of bacteria, fungi and archaea have been assessed in the rhizosphere by quantitative PCR, and by cultivable methods for bacteria and fungi. The communities of bacteria, fungi and arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi (AMF) was analyzed by Illumina sequencing of 16S rRNA gene, ITS and 28S rRNA gene, respectively. The level of mycorrhization was also evaluated using black ink coloration of newly formed roots harvested in October. The level of bacteria, fungi and archaea was dependent on rootstock and scion genotypes. A block effect was observed, suggesting that the soil characteristics strongly influenced the microorganisms from the rhizosphere and root endosphere. High-throughput sequencing of the different target genes showed different communities of bacteria, fungi and AMF associated with the scion x rootstock combinations. Finally, all the combinations were naturally mycorrhized. The root mycorrhization intensity was influenced by the rootstock genotype, but not by the scion one. Altogether, these results suggest that both rootstock and scion genotypes influence the rhizosphere and root endophytic microbiomes. It would be interesting to analyze the biochemical composition of the rhizodeposition of these genotypes for a better understanding of the processes involved in the modulation of these microbiomes. Moreover, crossing our data with the plant agronomic characteristics could provide insights into their roles on plant fitness.