Terroir 2010 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 International Terroir Conferences 9 Terroir 2010 9 Ancient zoning in the world (T2010) 9 Storia del prosecco e del suo territorio di produzione: un percorso di studi in continuo progresso

Storia del prosecco e del suo territorio di produzione: un percorso di studi in continuo progresso

Abstract

Nella realtà viticola Italiana il Prosecco è uno degli esempi più evidenti di un percorso storico che ha saputo valorizzare lo stretto legame tra vitigno e territorio d’origine.A partire dalla fine del ‘700, periodo nel quale le prime testimonianze riportano la presenza di questo vitigno nel luogo che ne ha dato fama e notorietà, diversi studi hanno contribuito all’individuazione degli elementi storici ed ambientali attestanti l’indiscusso valore di questo contesto unico e irripetibile.Le ricerche dell’ ‘800 hanno preso le mosse da un’approfondita caratterizzazione ampelografica del vitigno, dei suoi biotipi già anticamente noti e delle loro potenzialità viticole ed enologiche. Nel corso del ‘900 l’attenzione si è poi spostata anche all’ambiente di coltivazione, cercando di estrapolarne i principali caratteri morfologici e climatici e di coglierne gli effetti sulla successione fenologica, sulla produzione e sulla macrostruttura dell’uva. Negli anni ’90 l’esigenza di applicare nella pratica agricola quotidiana i risultati scientifici ottenuti in questi primi studi e la concomitante evoluzione delle metodologie di indagine, ha portato all’approccio pluridisciplinare che caratterizza gli attuali studi di zonazione. Grazie a questi, e sulla scorta delle informazioni climatiche e podologiche acquisite e a tecniche e strumentazioni sempre più evoluti sono stati impostati due importanti lavori di zonazione: il primo riguardante l’area orientale della DOCG Conegliano-Valdobbiadene o DOC Colli di Conegliano (1997-1999) e il successivo esteso alla parte occidentale della DOCG Conegliano-Valdobbiadene (2003-2006). Queste indagini hanno portato ad un approfondita conoscenza dell’areale produttivo storico di questo vitigno, evidenziando come a diverse condizioni climatiche e podologiche il Prosecco risponda con caratteristiche produttive diverse (rese, contenuti zuccherini, contenuti aromatici). Ciò concorre a rafforzare il legame tra vitigno e territorio, confermandone il ruolo fondamentale nel determinare la tipicità e l’unicità di questo vino.

English version: The Prosecco is one of the most important examples in Italy of a territory that through a long study process established its success in the strong linkage between wine and its original area. Since the end of 1700, when first evidences can be found about the presence of the Prosecco in this territory, many studies have contributed in better understanding the historical and environmental elements accountable for its success and notoriety. In 1800 the research started with the amphelographic characterization of the variety and with the study of its different biotipes and their viticultural and oenological potential. In the curse of 1900 the attention of reaserchers moved to the environment, with the aim at identifying the factors with major impact on vine physiology, yield and quality. The need to practically apply the results of these first scientific studies, together with the development of new technologies, led in the 90s to the multidisciplinary approach that characterizes the modern zoning studies. Basing on the pedologic and climatic information collected along two centuries, two important zoning projects were developed: the first (1997-1999) involved the Colli di Conegliano AOC district (Eastern part of the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene AOCG), while the second (2003-2006) focused on the Western part of the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene AOCG. These two investigations led to a better knowledge of the historical Prosecco area, highlighting how different environmental conditions may have an impact on the performance of this variety with important effects on yield, sugar content and aromatic composition of the grapes. The results contributed to strengthen the linkage between Prosecco and its territory and confirmed the importance of the production area in determining the uniqueness and tipicality of this product.

DOI:

Publication date: October 1, 2020

Issue: Terroir 2010

Type: Article

Authors

F. Gaiotti, P. Marcuzzo, F. Battista, L. Lovat, D. Tomasi

CRA-Centro di Ricerca per la Viticoltura, Viale 28 Aprile 26, Conegliano, Italy

Contact the author

Keywords

Zoning, Prosecco, Conegliano, Valdobbiadene, Climate, Soil

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2010

Citation

Related articles…

Using δ13C and hydroscapes as a tool for discriminating cultivar specific drought response

Measurement of carbon isotope discrimination in berry juice sugars at maturity (δ13C) provides an integrated assessment of water use efficiency (WUE) during the period of berry ripening, and when collected over multiple seasons can be used as an indication of drought stress response. Berry juice δ13C measurements were carried out on 48 different varieties planted in a common garden experiment in Bordeaux, France from 2014 through 2021 and were paired with midday and predawn leaf water potential measurements on the same vines in a subset of six varieties. The aim was to discriminate a large panel of varieties based on their stomatal behaviour and potentially identify hydraulic traits characterizing drought tolerance by comparing δ13C and hydroscapes (the visualisation of plant stomatal behaviour as a response to predawn water potential). Cluster analysis found that δ13C values are likely affected by the differing phenology of each variety, resulting in berry ripening of different varieties taking place under different stress conditions within the same year. We accounted for these phenological differences and found that cluster analysis based on specific δ13C metrics created a classification of varieties that corresponds well to our current empirical understanding of their relative drought tolerances. In addition, we analysed the water potential regulation of the subset of six varieties (using the hydroscape approach) and found that it was well correlated with some δ13C metrics. Surprisingly, a variety’s water potential regulation (specifically its minimum critical leaf water potential under water deficit) was strongly correlated to δ13C values under well-watered conditions, suggesting that base WUE may have a stronger impact on drought tolerance than WUE under water deficit. These results give strong insights on the innate WUE of a very large panel of varieties and suggest that studies of drought tolerance should include traits expressed under non-limiting conditions.

Aromatic maturity is a cornerstone of terroir expression in red wine

Harvesting grapes at adequate maturity is key to the production of high-quality red wines. Enologists and wine makers define several types of maturity, including technical maturity, phenolic maturity and aromatic maturity. Technical maturity and phenolic maturity are relatively well documented in the scientific literature, while articles on aromatic maturity are scarcer. This is surprising, because aromatic maturity is, without a doubt, the most important of the three in determining wine quality and typicity (including terroir expression). Optimal terroir expression can be obtained when the different types of maturity are reached at the same time, or within a short time frame. This is more likely to occur when the ripening takes place under mild temperatures, neither too cool, nor too hot. Aromatic expression in wine can be driven, from low to high maturity, by green, herbal, fresh fruit, ripe fruit, jammy fruit, candied fruit or cooked fruit aromas. Green and cooked fruit aromas are not desirable in red wines, while the levels of other aromatic compounds contribute to the typicity of the wine in relation to its origin. Wines produced in cool climates, or on cool soils in temperate climates, are likely to express herbal or fresh fruit aromas; while wines produced under warm climates, or on warm soils in temperate climates, may express ripe fruit, jammy fruit or candied fruit aromas. Growers can optimize terroir expression through their choice of grapevine variety. Early ripening varieties perform better in cool climates and late ripening varieties in warm climates. Additionally, maturity can be advanced or delayed by different canopy management practices or training systems.

A multidisciplinary approach to evaluate the effects of the training system on the performance of “Aglianico del Vulture” vineyards

Vineyards are complex agro-ecosystems with high spatial and temporal variability. An efficient training system may counteract the adverse effects of this variability. Moreover, considering the climate change issues, choosing an efficient training system that enhances water use and protects the vines from radiative thermal stress has become a priority for the farmers. A multidisciplinary approach that assesses the soil-crop-yield-wine relationships of vineyards in a distributed and holistic way could bring added knowledge on the behavior of the different training systems. This ongoing research aimed to implement a multidisciplinary approach to study the behavior of “Aglianico del Vulture” grapevines trained with two different systems: a spurred cordon (SC) and an “Alberello in parete” (AL), grown in a high-quality wine production area of Basilicata region (Italy). The approach merged several methods and scales of soil, ecophysiology, must/wine quality, and spectral data collection to assess the influence of the training system. Homogeneous zones (HZs) in both training systems were defined through a procedure based on geomorphological classification, unmanned aerial vehicles (UAV) images analysis, and a traditional soil survey supported by geophysical scanning. During the 2021 season, TDR probes monitored soil water content, while grapevine health status was assessed using eco-physiological measurements (LWP, chlorophyll content, PSII photosynthetic efficiency, LAI, and point-based field spectroscopy). These grapevine in-vivo measurements validated the spectral vegetation indexes (NDVI, RENDVI, CVI, and TVI) derived from the UAV multispectral imagery, which monitored the grapevine status in a distributed and non-invasive way. Grape yield, quality of berries, must and wine were measured to assess the effects of the training systems. The first experimental year results showed the variability of the vineyards and revealed relationships among soil parameters, crop characteristics, and vegetation indices of the SC and AL training systems. This multidisciplinary study could bring new insights into the vineyard training system’s effects on grape yield and wine quality.

The potential of multispectral/hyperspectral technologies for early detection of “flavescence dorée” in a Portuguese vineyard

“Flavescence dorée” (FD) is a grapevine quarantine disease associated with phytoplasmas and transmitted to healthy plants by insect vectors, mainly Scaphoideus titanus. Infected plants usually develop symptoms of stunted growth, unripe cane wood, leaf rolling, leaf yellowing or reddening, and shrivelled berries. Since plants can remain symptomless up to four years, they may act as reservoirs of FD contributing to the spread of the disease. So far, conventional management strategies rely mainly on the insecticide treatments, uprooting of infected plants and use of phytoplasma-free propagation material. However, these strategies are costly and could have undesirable environmental impacts. Thus, the development of sustainable and noninvasive approaches for early detection of FD and its management are of great importance to reduce disease spread and select the best cultural practices and treatments. The present study aimed to evaluate if multispectral/hyperspectral technologies can be used to detect FD before the appearance of the first symptoms and if infected grapevines display a spectral imaging fingerprint. To that end, physiological parameters (leaf area, chlorophyll content and photosynthetic rate) were collected in concomitance to the measurements of plant reflectance (using both a portable apparatus and a remote sensing drone). Measurements were performed in two leaves of 8 healthy and 8 FD-infected grapevines, at four timepoints: before the development of disease symptoms (21st June); and after symptoms appearance (ii) at veraison (2nd August); at post-veraison (11th September); and at harvest (25th September). At all timepoints, FD infected plants revealed a significant decrease in the studied physiological parameters, with a positive correlation with drone imaging data and portable apparatus analyses. Moreover, spectra of either drone imaging and portable apparatus showed clear differences between healthy and FD-infected grapevines, validating multispectral/ hyperspectral technology as a potential tool for the early detection of FD or other grapevine-associated diseases.

Soil, vine, climate change – what is observed – what is expected

To evaluate the current and future impact of climate change on Viticulture requires an integrated view on a complex interacting system within the soil-plant-atmospheric continuum under continuous change. Aside of the globally observed increase in temperature in basically all viticulture regions for at least four decades, we observe several clear trends at the regional level in the ratio of precipitation to potential evapotranspiration. Additionally the recently published 6th assessment report of the IPCC (The physical science basis) shows case-dependent further expected shifts in climate patterns which will have substantial impacts on the way we will conduct viticulture in the decades to come.
Looking beyond climate developments, we observe rising temperatures in the upper soil layers which will have an impact on the distribution of microbial populations, the decay rate of organic matter or the storage capacity for carbon, thus affecting the emission of greenhouse gases (GHGs) and the viscosity of water in the soil-plant pathway, altering the transport of water. If the upper soil layers dry out faster due to less rainfall and/or increased evapotranspiration driven by higher temperatures, the spectral reflection properties of bare soil change and the transport of latent heat into the fruiting zone is increased putting a higher temperature load on the fruit. Interactions between micro-organisms in the rhizosphere and the grapevine root system are poorly understood but respond to environmental factors (such as increased soil temperatures) and the plant material (rootstock for instance), respectively the cultivation system (for example bio-organic versus conventional). This adds to an extremely complex system to manage in terms of increased resilience, adaptation to and even mitigation of climate change. Nevertheless, taken as a whole, effects on the individual expressions of wines with a given origin, seem highly likely to become more apparent.