Politics meets terroir. The story of Prosecco – Are GI’s just a protectionist racket?

Previous work from our laboratory has shown that both a purified toasted oak powder and extracts made from unoaked and oaked red wines influenced physiological parameters, metabolism and hepatic gene expression in high-fat fed C57/BL6J male mice (Luo et al., 2020).  Impacted pathways included glucose metabolism, liver fat accumulation, markers of chronic inflammation, and expression of the Gsta1 mRNA.  

L’objectif de cette étude est analyser l’influence de la densité de plantation sur l’état hydrique (potentiel hydrique), le comportement productif (matière sèche et rendement) et la expression qualitative (poids de baie, degrée Brix, pH, acidité totale, concentration polyphénolique) de la varieté Tempranillo dans la Vallée du Douro, à l’A.O. Cigales.

La composition du raisin de la variété Muscat d’Alexandrie a été étudiée dans trois terroirs différents au Nord-Est de la Tunisie (RafRaf, Baddar et Kelibia).
Des échantillons de raisins ont été récoltés à maturité industrielle durant les saisons 2001 et 2002 dans les trois régions citées. Les paramètres pomologiques (poids moyen de la grappe et de la baie) et physico-chimiques

The OIV[i] defines terroir as a concept referring to an area in which collective knowledge of the interactions between the physical and biological environment (soil, topography, climate, landscape characteristics and biodiversity features) and vitivinicultural practices develops, providing distinctive wine characteristics. Those are perceptible in the taste of wine, which drives consumer preference and, therefore, wine’s value in the marketplace. Geographical indications (GI) are recognized regulatory constructs formalizing and protecting the nexus between wine taste and the terroir generating it. Despite considering updates, GIs do not consider the nexus as a dynamic one and do not anticipate change, namely of climate. Being climate a fundamental feature of terroir, it strongly impacts wine characteristics, such as taste. According to IPCC[ii], many widespread, rapid and unprecedented changes of climate occurred, some being irreversible over hundreds to thousands of years. Climatic shifts and atmospheric-driven extreme events have been widely reported worldwide. Recent climatic trends are projected to strengthen in upcoming decades, whereas extremes are expected to increase in frequency and intensity, forcing wines away from GI definitions. Geographical shifts of viticultural suitability are projected, often moving into regions and countries different from current ones. Some authors propose adaptation in viticulture, winemaking and product innovation. We show evidence of climate changing wine characteristics in the Douro valley, home of 270-year-old Port GI. We discuss herein resist or adapt stances for when climate changes the nexus between terroir and wine characteristics. Using the MED-GOLD[iii] dashboard, a tool allowing for easy visual navigation of past and future climates, we demonstrate how policymakers can identify future moments, throughout the 21st century under different emission scenarios, when GI specifications will likely need updates (e.g., boundaries, varieties) to reduce climate-change impacts.

similar to other agricultural producers, grape growers face increasing pressure to improve productivity and production efficiency while reducing their environmental impact. Threats due to extreme climate events, as well as the uncertainty of available water and labor, provide significant challenges to the future of grape production. This presentation will provide an integrated overview of the tools and technologies being developed to address these issues and to help growers manage vineyards in the future, including vineyard design, remote and proximal sensing, automation, data management and decision support systems, and germplsm improvement. The potential impact of these advancements on vineyard productivity, fruit quality, and sustainability will be discussed.