Terroir 2020 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 International Terroir Conferences 9 Terroir 2020 9 History and innovation of terroir 9 Politics meets terroir. The story of Prosecco – Are GI’s just a protectionist racket?

Politics meets terroir. The story of Prosecco – Are GI’s just a protectionist racket?

Abstract

The recent Free Trade Agreement negotiations between Australia and the European Union have again put the issue of Geographical Indications (GIs) in the spotlight. Australia has long demonstrated its understanding of GIs and maintains a clear and rigorous GI protection system for wine. For many years, Australia’s wine sector was a strong advocate for GIs and a strong system to protect the rights of users. However, in recent times, trust has been eroded by the move by the European Union to legislate away the use of the grape variety ‘Prosecco’ and create an artificial region called ‘Prosecco’. This effectively downgraded the value of the GI Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco by removing the legitimate terroir link between the region and the product. In Australia and other countries, this was perceived as a cynical attempt to remove the rights of other producers to use the traditional variety Prosecco and has been strongly resisted. In this paper, we use the case study of ‘Prosecco’ to explore the importance of GIs and how the national political agendas can impact on the validity of the concept. Recent developments in international law and practical experience in recent Free Trade Agreement negotiations allow the authors to develop a hypothesis that GIs are being used as a bargaining chip in trade negotiations. Their very credibility is being eroded as protectionist ideology is driving short-sighted political decision making to devalue the whole concept of GIs by de-linking terroir from the GI. This limits the acceptability of the GI concept and potentially will lead to a consumer backlash as the integrity of the system is questioned. This study also investigates the international legal developments and the implications for these on GI protection.

DOI:

Publication date: March 23, 2021

Issue: Terroir 2020

Type: Video

Authors

Anthony Battaglene1*, Damien Griffante2, Lee McLean1

1Australian Grape and Wine Incorporated, Canberra, ACT, Australia
2Australian Grape and Wine Incorporated, Adelaide, South Australia, Australia

Contact the author

Keywords

Geographic Indications, grape varieties, regionality, Prosecco, wine trade

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2020

Citation

Related articles…

Predicting provenance and grapevine cultivar implementing machine learning on vineyard soil microbiome data: implications in grapevine breeding

The plant rhizosphere microbial communities are an essential component of plant microbiota, which is crucial for sustaining the production of healthy crops. The main drivers of the composition of such communities are the growing environment and the planted genotype. Recent viticulture studies focus on understanding the effects of these factors on soil microbial composition since microbial biodiversity is an important determinant of plant phenotype, and of wine’s organoleptic properties. Microbial biodiversity of different wine regions, for instance, is an important determinant of wine terroir.

Sustainable wine industry: supercritical fluid extraction as key technology for biorefinery enhancement

Supercritical carbon dioxide (sc-CO2) extraction is an environmentally friendly technology employed for bioactive compounds recovery from various natural sources and biomasses. The advantages of sc-co2 extraction include its selectivity, relatively mild operating conditions, which minimize the degradation of sensitive compounds, and the absence of potentially harmful organic solvents.

Influence of cell-cell contact on yeast interactions and exo-metabolome

Alcoholic fermentation is the main step for winemaking, mainly performed by the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae. But other wine yeasts called non-Saccharomyces may contribute to alcoholic fermentation and modulate the wine aroma complexity. The recurrent problem with the use of these non-Saccharomyces yeasts is their trend to die off prematurely during alcoholic fermentation, leading to a lack of their interesting aromatic properties searched in the desired wine. This phenomenon appears to be mainly due to interactions with S. cerevisiae. These interactions are often negatives but remain unclear because of the species and strain specific response. Among the non-Saccharomyces yeasts, Lachancea thermotolerans is a wine yeast naturally found in grape must and well known as a great L-lactic acid producer and an aromatic molecules enhancer, but its behavior during alcoholic fermentation can be completely different in co-fermentation with S. cerevisiae in function of strain used.

Red wine substituted esters involved in fruity aromatic expression: an enantiomeric approach to understand their sensory impact and their pathway formation

Among red wines ethyl esters, those from short hydroxylated and branched-chain aliphatic acids constitute a family with a particular behavior and sensory importance. They have been previously discussed in the literature [1] and recent studies have established that some of them were strongly involved in of red wines’ fruity aroma [2]. As some among them have an asymmetrical carbon atom, it seemed important to separate their different enantiomers to obtain an accurate assessment of their organoleptic impact. Three chiral esters have been identified, presenting alkyl and/or hydroxyle substituants: ethyl 2-hydroxy-4-methylpentanoate, ethyl 2-methylbutanoate, and ethyl 3-hydroxybutanoate.

Regulation of terpene production in methyl jasmonate treated cell-cultures

Terpenes are responsible for flavors and aromas of grapes, however, they also protect from radiation, participate in biotic stress and antioxidant mechanisms. The phytohormone methyl jasmonate (MeJA) mediates many of these stress responses and has been associated with increased terpene content in berries. Here, we generated transcriptomic data of Vitis vinifera cv. ‘Gamay’ cells treated with MeJA (100 μM) and cyclodextrins (50 μM) to understand these responses. Ontology analysis revealed that up-regulated genes (URGs) were enriched in jasmonic acid biosynthesis and signaling terms, as expected. Inspection of transcription factors (TFs) among URGs allowed us to study uncharacterized TFs.