Towards the definition of a terroir of grape dehydration for the production of ‘Passito’ wines in Valpolicella (Italy)

Grape ripening is a critical phenophase during which many metabolites driving wine quality are accumulated in berries. Major changes in berry composition include a rapid increase in sugar and a decrease in malic acid content and concentration. Its duration is highly variable depending on grapevine variety, climatic parameters, soil type and management practices.

Modern winemakers must ensure effective alcoholic fermentation without losing the intrinsic biodiversity of the different oenological contexts. In this sense, the population of saccharomyces cerevisiae characteristic of wineries that traditionally do not use selected yeasts can represent an interesting reservoir of biodiversity.

Valpolicella is a wine region characterized by a wide use of the technology of grape drying for the production of two red passito wines, recognized as PDOs, “Recioto della Valpolicella” and the most famous “Amarone della Valpolicella”. Geographical origin of the grapes can influence wine composition by grape chemical composition yeast behaviour during fermentation. This study investigates the impact of different commercial yeast strains on aroma profiles of wines produced with withered grapes of different origins. In addition, the influence of spontaneous fermentation is also considered. METHODS: Experimental red wines were produced with a standard winemaking protocol with withered Corvina and Corvinone grapes obtained from two different geographical areas within the Valpolicella region. Fermentations were carried out with four different commercial yeasts plus a spontaneous fermentation. Wines were analysed by means of SPE- and SPME-GC-MS techniques and sensory analysis (sorting task).

I performed my PhD in grapevine physiology under the supervision of Dr. H. Medrano, standing in the vineyards from pre-dawn to sunrise during many hot, wet and sunny days with my colleagues J.M.E. and J.B. I also spent many days and nights facing ticks year-round working in Mediterranean macchias with J.Gu. and M.M. Later I was able to supervise PhD students on grapevines – like A.P. and M.T. – and on Mediterranean vegetation – like J.Gal. With the incorporation to the group of M.R.-C. ‘the puzzle’ was completed and, combining the aforementioned studies, we could conclude (more than 20 years ago) things like: (1) stomatal conductance is the best proxy for ‘water stress’ in studies on photosynthesis; (2) steady-state chlorophyll fluorescence retrieves photosynthesis under saturating light; (3) photoinhibition is not a major photosynthetic limitation under water stress; (4) mesophyll conductance instead is; and (5) mesophyll conductance is a major driver of leaf water use efficiency.

Nitrogen (N) is quite important nutrient in grapevine development and must quality, but under Mediterranean climatic conditions, available soil water (ASW) during grapevine development can also influence vigour and must quality. The aim was to determine the influence of soil nitrate (NO3-) availability on N foliar, yield, and must quality in vineyards with similar available water holding capacity (AWC). For this purpose, four cv. Tempranillo (Vitis vinifera L.) vineyards were selected. All of them are placed in Uruñuela municipality (La Rioja, Spain), separated less than 2.5 km and in a slope <1 %, in soils with similar soil chemistry properties and with similar rooting depth (ranging between 105 cm and 110 cm).