Macrowine 2021
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Revealing the origins of old bordeaux wines using terpene quantification

Revealing the origins of old bordeaux wines using terpene quantification

Abstract

The overall quality of fine wines is linked to the development of “bouquet” during wine bottle ageing (1). Bordeaux red wine ageing bouquet is defined by the association of several odours including fresh and fruity notes sometimes related to specific compounds. Some of those molecules, such as thiols or DMS are issued from precursors produced by the grapevine (2–5). On the another hand, several compounds such as terpenes are produced by the grape as precursors (6) and released during ageing. The aroma of aged wines , the “bouquet” could originate directly in grapes thanks to flavour precursors (7). In this study we addressed the questions: What is the most important between vintage and terroir in wine identity? And is there a molecular signature in the aroma of old wines linked to grape origin and revealed during ageing?Over 80 volatile molecules including DMS, esters, terpenes, mint terpenes, C13-norisoprénoïdes, volatiles oak wood compounds and off-flavors were quantified by GC/MS in 80 red Bordeaux wines (7 domains x 12 vintages between 1990 and 2007). A statistical analysis was performed on the dataset. First, the presence of most of the targeted molecules were identified in the 80 wines and the link between their contents and the wines’ ages was evaluated. After that, the hypothesis of wine identity being linked to wood contact or off-flavors was rejected. Next, principal component analysis (PCA) on the data showed a separation between the 7 vineyards studied. Each Bordeaux area and domain could be represented by one or several molecules. Then, a discriminant factor analysis (DFA) showed the weight of each compound in the separation. The terpenes, in particular terpinen-1-ol, terpinen-4-ol and α-terpinene, were implicated to the partitioning of vineyards. A degradation of the separation of the wines is observed if terpenes levels are excluded from the data set. Nevertheless, the separation is not effective based on solely terpene levels. The profile of terpenes in the molecular signature of these Bordeaux old wines is important but the signature of studied domains is incomplete without the other compounds.These results highlight the specificity of productions areas and the existence of a molecular identity unique to each domain beyond the effect of vintage and the passage of years. The terroir and blending practiced in Bordeaux are probably involved in this singular molecular identity.

DOI:

Publication date: September 14, 2021

Issue: Macrowine 2021

Type: Article

Authors

Justine Laboyrie

Unité de recherche Oenologie, EA 4577, USC 1366 INRAE, ISVV, University of Bordeaux, Bordeaux INP, F33882 Villenave d’Ornon France ,Davide Slaghenaufi, Department of Biotechnology, University of Verona 37029 San Pietro in Cariano, Italy Giovanni Luzzini, Department of Biotechnology, University of Verona 37029 San Pietro in Cariano, Italy Maurizio Ugliano, Department of Biotechnology, University of Verona 37029 San Pietro in Cariano, Italy Laurent Riquier, Unité de recherche Oenologie, EA 4577, USC 1366 INRAE, ISVV, University of Bordeaux, Bordeaux INP, F33882 Villenave d’Ornon France Stéphanie Marchand, Unité de recherche Oenologie, EA 4577, USC 1366 INRAE, ISVV, University of Bordeaux, Bordeaux INP, F33882 Villenave d’Ornon France

Contact the author

Keywords

red wines identity, ageing, gas chromatography analysis, terpenes, terroir

Citation

Related articles…

Updating the Winkler index: An analysis of Cabernet sauvignon in Napa Valley’s varied and changing climate

This study aims to create an updated, agile viticultural climate index (similar to the Winkler Index) by performing in-depth analyses of current and historical data from industry partners in several major winegrowing regions. The Winkler Index was developed in the early twentieth century based on analysis of various grape-growing regions in California. The index uses heat accumulation (i.e. Growing Degree Days) throughout the growing season to determine which grape varieties are best suited to each region. As viticultural regions are increasingly subject to the complexity and uncertainty of a changing climate, a more rigorous, agile model is needed to aid grape growers in determining which cultivars to plant where. For the first phase of this study, 21 industry partners throughout Napa Valley shared historical phenology, harvest, viticultural practice, and weather data related to their Cabernet sauvignon vineyard blocks. To complement this data, berry samples were collected throughout the 2021 growing season from 50 vineyard blocks located throughout 16 American Viticultural Areas that were then analyzed for basic berry chemistry and phenolics. These blocks have been mapped using a Geographic Information System (GIS), enabling analysis of altitude, vineyard row orientation, slope, and remotely sensed climate data. Sampling sites were also chosen based on their proximity to a weather station. By analyzing historical data from industry partners and data specifically collected for this study, it is possible to identify key parameters for further analysis. Initial results indicate extreme variability at a high spatial resolution not currently accounted for in modern viticultural climate indices and suggest that viticultural practices play a major role. Using the structure of data collection and analyses developed for the first phase, this project will soon be expanded to other wine regions globally, while continuing data collection in Napa Valley.

Climate and the evolving mix of grape varieties in Australia’s wine regions

The purpose of this study is to examine the changing mix of winegrape varieties in Australia so as to address the question: In the light of key climate indicators and predictions of further climate change, how appropriate are the grape varieties currently planted in Australia’s wine regions? To achieve this, regions are classified into zones according to each region’s climate variables, particularly average growing season temperature (GST), leaving aside within-region variations in climates. Five different climatic classifications are reported. Using projections of GSTs for the mid- and late 21st century, the extent to which each region is projected to move from its current zone classification to a warmer one is reported. Also shown is the changing proportion of each of 21 key varieties grown in a GST zone considered to be optimal for premium winegrape production. Together these indicators strengthen earlier suggestions that the mix of varieties may be currently less than ideal in many Australian wine regions, and would become even less so in coming decades if that mix was not altered in the anticipation of climate change. That is, grape varieties in many (especially the warmest) regions will have to keep changing, or wineries will have to seek fruit from higher latitudes or elevations if they wish to retain their current mix of varieties and wine styles.

Phenological characterization of a wide range of Vitis Vinifera varieties

In order to study the impact of climate change on Bordeaux grape varieties and to assess the adaptation capacities of candidates to the grape varieties of this wine region to the new climatic conditions, an experimental block design composed of 52 grape varieties was set up in 2009 at the INRAE Bordeaux Aquitaine center. Among the many parameters studied, the three main phenological stages of the vine (budburst, flowering and veraison) have been closely monitored since 2012. Observations for each year, stage and variety were carried out on four independent replicates. Precocity indices have been calculated from the data obtained over the 2012-2021 period (Barbeau et al. 1998). This work allowed to group the phenological behaviour of the grapevine varieties, not only based on the timing of the subsequent developmental stages, but also on the overall precocity of the cycle and the total length of the cycle between budburst and veraison. Results regarding the variability observed among the different grape varieties for these phenological stages are presented as heat maps.

Elucidating vineyard site contributions to key sensory molecules: Identification of correlations between elemental composition and volatile aroma profile of site-specific Pinot noir wines

The reproducibility of elemental profile in wines produced across multiple vintages has been previously reported using grapes from a single scion clone of Vitis vinifera L. cv. Pinot noir. The grapevines were grown on fourteen different vineyard sites, from Oregon to southern California in the U.S.A., which span distances from approximately hundreds of meters to 1450 km, while elevations range from near sea level to nearly 500 m. In addition, sensorial (i.e. aroma, taste, and mouthfeel) and chemical (i.e. polyphenolic and volatile) differences across the different vineyard sites have also been observed among these wines at two aging time points. While strong evidence exists to support that grapes grown in different regions can produce wines with unique chemical and sensorial profiles, even when a single clone is used, the understanding of growing site characteristics that result in this reproducible differentiation continues to emerge. One hypothesis is that the elemental profile that a vineyard site imparts to the grape berries and the resulting wine is an important contributor to this differentiation in chemistry and sensory of wines. For example, various classes of enzymes that catalyze the formation of key aroma compounds or their precursors require specific metals. In this work, we begin to report correlations between elemental and volatile aroma profiles of site-specific Pinot noir wines, made under standardized winemaking conditions, that have been previously shown to be distinguished separately by these chemical analyses.

Understanding graft union formation by using metabolomic and transcriptomic approaches during the first days after grafting in grapevine

Since the arrival of Phyloxera (Daktulosphaira vitifolia) in Europe at the end of the 19th century, grafting has become essential to cultivate Vitis vinifera. Today, grafting provides not only resistance to this aphid, but it used to adapt the cultivars according to the type of soil, environment, or grape production requirements by using a panel of rootstocks. As part of vineyard decline, it is often mentioned the importance of producing quality grafted grapevine to improve vineyard longevity, but, to our knowledge, no study has been able to demonstrate that grafting has a role in this context. However, some scion/rootstock combinations are considered as incompatible due to poor graft union formation and subsequently high plant mortality soon after grafting. In a context of climate change where the creation of new cultivars and rootstocks is at the centre of research, the ability of new cultivars to be grafted is therefore essential. The early identification of graft incompatibility could allow the selection of non-viable plants before planting and would have a beneficial impact on research and development in the nursery sector. For this reason, our studies have focused on the identification of metabolic and transcriptomic markers of poor grafting success during the first days/week after grafting; we have identified some correlations between some specialized metabolites, especially stilbenes, and grafting success, as well as an accumulation of some amino acids in the incompatible combination. The study of the metabolome and the transcriptome allowed us to understand and characterise the processes involved during graft union formation.