Macrowine 2021
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Revealing the origins of old bordeaux wines using terpene quantification

Revealing the origins of old bordeaux wines using terpene quantification

Abstract

The overall quality of fine wines is linked to the development of “bouquet” during wine bottle ageing (1). Bordeaux red wine ageing bouquet is defined by the association of several odours including fresh and fruity notes sometimes related to specific compounds. Some of those molecules, such as thiols or DMS are issued from precursors produced by the grapevine (2–5). On the another hand, several compounds such as terpenes are produced by the grape as precursors (6) and released during ageing. The aroma of aged wines , the “bouquet” could originate directly in grapes thanks to flavour precursors (7). In this study we addressed the questions: What is the most important between vintage and terroir in wine identity? And is there a molecular signature in the aroma of old wines linked to grape origin and revealed during ageing?Over 80 volatile molecules including DMS, esters, terpenes, mint terpenes, C13-norisoprénoïdes, volatiles oak wood compounds and off-flavors were quantified by GC/MS in 80 red Bordeaux wines (7 domains x 12 vintages between 1990 and 2007). A statistical analysis was performed on the dataset. First, the presence of most of the targeted molecules were identified in the 80 wines and the link between their contents and the wines’ ages was evaluated. After that, the hypothesis of wine identity being linked to wood contact or off-flavors was rejected. Next, principal component analysis (PCA) on the data showed a separation between the 7 vineyards studied. Each Bordeaux area and domain could be represented by one or several molecules. Then, a discriminant factor analysis (DFA) showed the weight of each compound in the separation. The terpenes, in particular terpinen-1-ol, terpinen-4-ol and α-terpinene, were implicated to the partitioning of vineyards. A degradation of the separation of the wines is observed if terpenes levels are excluded from the data set. Nevertheless, the separation is not effective based on solely terpene levels. The profile of terpenes in the molecular signature of these Bordeaux old wines is important but the signature of studied domains is incomplete without the other compounds.These results highlight the specificity of productions areas and the existence of a molecular identity unique to each domain beyond the effect of vintage and the passage of years. The terroir and blending practiced in Bordeaux are probably involved in this singular molecular identity.

DOI:

Publication date: September 14, 2021

Issue: Macrowine 2021

Type: Article

Authors

Justine Laboyrie

Unité de recherche Oenologie, EA 4577, USC 1366 INRAE, ISVV, University of Bordeaux, Bordeaux INP, F33882 Villenave d’Ornon France ,Davide Slaghenaufi, Department of Biotechnology, University of Verona 37029 San Pietro in Cariano, Italy Giovanni Luzzini, Department of Biotechnology, University of Verona 37029 San Pietro in Cariano, Italy Maurizio Ugliano, Department of Biotechnology, University of Verona 37029 San Pietro in Cariano, Italy Laurent Riquier, Unité de recherche Oenologie, EA 4577, USC 1366 INRAE, ISVV, University of Bordeaux, Bordeaux INP, F33882 Villenave d’Ornon France Stéphanie Marchand, Unité de recherche Oenologie, EA 4577, USC 1366 INRAE, ISVV, University of Bordeaux, Bordeaux INP, F33882 Villenave d’Ornon France

Contact the author

Keywords

red wines identity, ageing, gas chromatography analysis, terpenes, terroir

Citation

Related articles…

The interplay between grape ripening and weather anomalies – A modeling exercise

Current climate change is increasing inter- and intra-annual variability in atmospheric conditions leading to grapevine phenological shifts as well altered grape ripening and composition at ripeness. This study aims to (i) detect weather anomalies within a long-term time series, (ii) model grape ripening revealing altered traits in time to target specific ripeness thresholds for four Vitis vinifera cultivars, and (iii) establish empirical relationships between ripening and weather anomalies with forecasting purposes. The Day of the Year (DOY) to reach specific grape ripeness targets was determined from time series of sugar concentrations, total acidity and pH collected from a private company in the period 2009-2021 in North-Eastern Italy. Non-linear models for the DOY to reach the specified ripeness thresholds were assessed for model efficiency (EF) and error of prediction (RMSE) in four grapevine cultivars (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Glera and Garganega). For each vintage and cultivar, advances or delays in DOY to target specified ripeness thresholds were assessed with respect to the average ripening dynamics. Long-term meteorological series monitored at ground weather station by means of hourly air temperature and rainfall data were analyzed. Climate statistics were obtained and for each time period (month, bimester, quarter and year) weather anomalies were identified. A linear regression analysis was performed to assess a possible correlation that may exist between ripening and weather anomalies. For each cultivar, ripeness advances or delays expressed in number of days to target the specific ripening threshold were assessed in relation to registered weather anomalies and the specific reference time period in the vintage. Precipitation of the warmest month and spring quarter are key to understanding the effect of climate change on sugar ripeness. Minimum temperatures of May-June bimester and maximum temperatures of spring quarter best correlate with altered total acidity evolution and pH increment during the ripening process, respectively.

Simulating climate change impact on viticultural systems in historical and emergent vineyards

Global climate change affects regional climates and hold implications for wine growing regions worldwide. Although winegrowers are constantly adapting to internal and external factors, it seems relevant to develop tools, which will allow them to better define actual and future agro-climatic potentials. Within this context, we develop a modelling approach, able to simulate the impact of environmental conditions and constraints on vine behaviour and to highlight potential adaptation strategies according to different climate change scenarios. Our modeling approach, named SEVE (Simulating Environmental impacts on Viticultural Ecosystems), provides a generic modeling framework for simulating grapevine growth and berry ripening under different conditions and constraints (slope, aspect, soil type, climate variability…) as well as production strategies and adaptation rules according to climate change scenarios. Each activity is represented by an autonomous agent able to react and adapt its reaction to the variability of environmental constraints. Using this model, we have recently analyzed the evolution of vineyards’ exposure to climatic risks (frost, pathogen risk, heat wave) and the adaptation strategies potentially implemented by the winegrowers. This approach, implemented for two climate change scenarios, has been initiated in France on traditional (Loire Valley) and emerging (Brittany) vineyards. The objective is to identify the time horizons of adaptations and new opportunities in these two regions. Carried out in collaboration with wine growers, this approach aims to better understand the variability of climate change impacts at local scale in the medium and long term.

Copper contamination in vineyard soils of Bordeaux: spatial risk assessment for the replanting of vines and crops

Copper (Cu) is widely and historically used in viticulture as a fungicide against mildew. Cu has a strong affinity for soil organic matter and accumulates in topsoil horizons. Thus, Cu may negatively affect soil organisms and plants, consequently reducing soil fertility and productivity. The Bordeaux vineyards have the largest vineyard surfaces (26%) within French controlled appellation and a great proportion of French wine production (around 5 million hl per year). Considering the local context of vineyard surfaces decreasing (vine uprooting) and possible new crop plantation, the issue of Cu potential toxicity rises. Therefore, the aims of this work are firstly to evaluate the Cu contamination in vineyard soils of Bordeaux, secondly to produce a risk assessment map for new vine or crop plantation. We used soil analyses from several local studies to build a database with 4496 soil horizon samples. The database was enhanced by means of pedotransfer functions in order to estimate the bioaccessible (EDTA-extractable) Cu in soils of samples without measurements. From this database, 1797 georeferenced samples with CuEDTA concentrations in the topsoil (0-50 cm depth) were used for kriging interpolation in order to produce the spatial distribution map of CuEDTA in vineyard soils. Then, the spatial distribution of Cu was crossed with vine uprooting surfaces and municipality boundaries. CuEDTAconcentrations ranged from 0.52 to 459 mg/kg and showed clear anomalies. Our results from spatial analysis showed that almost 50% of vineyard soil surfaces have CuEDTA concentrations higher than 30 mg/kg (moderate risk for new plantation) and 20% with concentrations higher than 50 mg/kg (high risk for new plantation). A decision-support map based on municipalities was realised to provide a simple tool to stakeholders concerned by land use management.

Variety and climatic effects on quality scores in the Western US winegrowing regions

Wine quality is strongly linked to climate. Quality scores are often driven by climate variation across different winegrowing regions and years, but also influenced by other aspects of terroir, including variety. While recent work has looked at the relationship between quality scores and climate across many European regions, less work has examined New World winegrowing regions. Here we used scores from three major rating systems (Wine Advocate, Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator) combined with daily climate and phenology data to understand what drives variation across wine quality scores in major regions of the Western US, including regions in California, Oregon and Washington. We examined effects of variety, region, and in what phenological period climate was most predictive of quality. As in other studies, we found climate, based mainly on growing degree day (GDD) models, was generally associated with quality—with higher GDD associated with higher scores—but variety and region also had strong effects. Effects of region were generally stronger than variety. Certain varieties received the highest scores in only some areas, while other varieties (e.g., Merlot) generally scored lower across regions. Across phenological stages, GDD during budbreak was often most strongly associated with quality. Our results support other studies that warmer periods generally drive high quality wines, but highlight how much region and variety drive variation in scores outside of climate.

Spatial determination of areas in the Western Balkans region favorable for organic production

In problematic conditions for production of grapes and wine caused by the COVID-19 pandemic and the resulting occurrence of wine surpluses, producers are increasingly turning to the innovative viticulture and winemaking of products that are more appealing to the market and the consumers. On the other hand, consumption of the food safety or organic products, and therefore of organic grapes and wine, is increasingly common in the world, in particular in Europe. The Regional Rural Development Standing Working Group (SWG RRD), as a regional intergovernmental organization gathers actors in the viticulture and winemaking sector from states and territories of the Western Balkans (South-East Europe) in the Expert Working Group for Wine, with the aim of improving viticulture and winemaking in this region through joint activities. In accordance with the aforementioned, the SWG RRD is working on advancing organic production of grapes and wine, and on recognition of specificities of the terroir of wine-growing areas in Western Balkans. In addition, as part of the project “Facilitation of Exchange and Advice on Wine Regulations in Western Balkan Countries” helmed by the German Federal Ministry of Food and Agriculture, in addition to harmonization of relevant legislation with EU regulations, efforts are being invested towards recognition of organic wines. Within activities and project implemented by this organization, expert analyses and scientific research of the terroir of Western Balkans were carried out, and some of the results are presented in this paper.