Soils, climate and vine management: their influence on Marlborough Sauvignon blanc wine style

In this video recording of the IVES science meeting 2025, Jordi Ballester (Centre des sciences du goût et de l’alimentation, CNRS, INRAE, Institut Agro, Université Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, Dijon, France) and María-Pilar Sáenz-Navajas (Instituto de Ciencias de la Vid y el Vino (ICVV) (CSIC-UR-GR), La Rioja, Spain) speak about the concept of natural wine. This presentation is based on an original article accessible for free on OENO One.

The presence of undesirable compounds in wines, such as ota, biogenic amines and pesticides residues, affects wine quality and can cause health problems for the consumer. Additionally, an excess of tannins can produce an undesirable increase in the astringency and bitterness of the wine, so tannins are also a target for reduction. The main tool that a winemaker has to reduce their content in the wine is fining. However, some of the fining agents commonly used in the winery can cause allergies or even increase the protein content in the wine, increasing the turbidity.

Molecular markers of wine oxydation, such as sotolon or Strecker’s aldehydes that induce respectively nut or curry and boiled vegetables or wilted rose odors, can be percieved as a default by consumers. These volatile compounds are especially formed during the premature aging of wine, but it is likely that several contributing compounds are still unknown as is their combined contribution. This study was carried out to identify the markers of oxydation in Chardonnay wine by Gas Chromatography Olfactometry (GC-O) and to study the impact of these markers on the complex wine aromatic buffer using the Olfactoscan approach.A Chardonnay wine (2018-vintage), taken after malolactic fermentation without sulphites addition, was submitted to an artificial oxidation to simulate more or less prononced premature oxidation. Volatile compounds were extracted by Solid-Phase Extraction (SPE) and analysed by GC-O with a panel of 13 trained subjects. The same extract was also submitted to a second analysis based on the Olfactoscan technique, which allowed to evaluate the impact of each volatile compounds on the complex aromatic buffer of a non-oxidized wine delivered as background odor. Preliminary results revealed three types of behavior. On the one hand, several odor zones appeared only with the background odour, suggesting a synergy effect induced by the compounds in the aromatic buffer. Conversely, odor-active compounds could not be perceived within the background odor suggesting a masking effect. Finally several compounds were found to contribute as key odorants for wine oxydation once mixed with the aromatic buffer. These compounds are still to be identified using complementary techniques.

Sustainability is a key focus in viticulture, where managing abiotic and biotic stress presents a major challenge.

The occurrence of faults and taints in wine, such as those caused by microbial spoilage or various taints, have resulted in significant financial losses to wine producers. The wine industry commits significant financial resources towards fining and taint removal processes each year. Fining involves the addition of one or more adsorptive substrates to juice or wine to bind certain components, thus reducing their concentration [1]. However, these processes are often not selective and can also remove desirable flavour and aroma compounds.