Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Aspect juridiques des terroirs

Aspect juridiques des terroirs

Abstract

Le “terroir” est dans tous les discours, les articles, les étiquettes et les publicités. Le voca­ble est en situation d’utilisation euphorique. Indiscutablement l’emploi historique est agri­cole, puis viticole, mais il n’est jamais juridique.
Pourtant le concept de terroir a certainement un lieu avec les produits typiques qui en sont issus et qui sont réglementés. La même observation peut être faite pour les autres produits agricoles bruts ou transformés, voire les denrées alimentaires qui bénéficient d’une appella­tion d’origine protégée ou d’une indication géographique protégée au sens du Règlement (CEE) n° 2081/92 du 14 juillet 1992. De quoi parle-t-on lorsqu’on utilise le mot “terroir” et quelle peut être la place de ce concept dans le droit de la vigne et du vin?
L’étymologie est latine: terroir vient de “terra”, mais la sémantique est plus nuancée. Dans l’ancien français “terroir” s’applique à une terre de grande qualité, mais aussi au territoire exploité par une communauté rurale dont l’activité délimite le terroir en question. Le terroir désigne tout à la fois une spécificité agronomique (un terroir à fraises, un terroir à asperges … ) et la sphère d’activité d’un village, puis progressivement le terroir désigne seule­ment un lieu dont les caractéristiques naturelles donnent aux produits qui en sont issus leur typicité.
Historiquement l’usage du mot terroir, dans son application viticole, remonte aux XVIIème et XVIIIème siècles, moment aussi des premières délimitations (Chianti, Porto).
Le chemin de la connaissance empirique, puis scientifique, des terroirs a presque trois siè­cles. Quels sont les apports et les concepts des spécialistes de la viticulture?
Les responsables professionnels ont parlé de terroir en même temps que naissait l’appella­tion d’origine: “Une appellation d’origine est l’adéquation de cépages à un terroir. Un terroir, c’est un sol et les facteurs climatiques dont la conjonction donne une aire de production ..” pour le ministre français de l’agriculture Joseph Capus en 1935. Le baron Le Roy va dans le même sens “.. aussi célèbre que soit une commune, tous les terrains qui la composent ne sont pas aptes à produire des vins réputés”, une délimitation doit être faite fondée sur la nature géologique du terrain, ses caractères géographiques et son profil hydrique.
Le lien terroir-appellation d’origine est évident mais non empreint d’automaticité. L’étude des terroirs est une recherche des meilleures conditions possibles de production des vins. Progressivement le nombre de paramètres étudiés devient de plus en plus important dans la perspective d’une dichotomie: facteurs naturels – facteurs humains tirée de la définition de l’appellation d’origine définie par l’Arrangement de Lisbonne en 1958. A cet égard on peut relever qu’il y a pas totale unanimité parmi les scientifiques dans la qualification facteurs naturels-facteurs humains et dans leur interactivité.
Dans un premier temps on peut légitimement penser que le mot terroir s’applique exclu­sivement aux facteurs naturels de l’appellation d’origine. Mais la période récente montre abondamment le lien entre le terroir-facteurs naturels et les facteurs humains. Le produit final est la réponse, le miroir, du dialogue des facteurs naturels et des facteurs humains. Une “approche intégrée” du terroir viticole se dessine.
Pour d’autres produits agricoles ou denrées alimentaires on comprend bien que les travaux ne sont pas encore aussi nombreux et aussi approfondis. Il faut aussi noter que la relation facteurs naturels-facteurs humains est une relation qui peut être totalement déséquilibrée en privilégiant les uns ou les autres.
Par ailleurs terroir et appellation d’origine ne sont pas nécessairement liés, Une appellation d’origine est vraisemblablement fondée sur un terroir, mais un terroir peut exister en dehors d’un produit d’appellation d’origine.
Un produit désigné par une indication géographique peut être issu d’un terroir, si un effort de délimitation et d’adéquation des plantations a été réalisé. Un vin de table à indication géo­graphique au sens du droit communautaire (vin de pays en France; indication géographique typique en Italie) peut être issu d’un terroir.
A l’abondance scientifique viticole répond une faiblesse juridique apparente. Le mot “ter­roir” n’a pas de signification juridique particulière, c’est un nom commun pratiquement en libre usage.
Les textes nationaux et communautaires n’emploient pratiquement jamais le mot terroir. Partout il n’est question que “d’aire de production” ou de “zone de production”, sauf pour le Règlement (CEE) n° 3302/90 de la Commission du 15 novembre 1990 fixant les modalités d’application relatives aux transferts de droits de replantation de superficies viticoles qui définit le ” .. terroir de potentialités variétales .. “comme ” .. l’unité de milieu naturel, caractérisée par des données géomorphologiques, pédologiques et climatiques, pour laquelle il est fait un classement d’aptitude variétale”.
Les points de contact terroir-droit de la vigne et du vin apparaissent plus ou moins nom­breux. Néanmoins quand des efforts de distinctivité d’un produit, vin ou autre, sont réalisés le droit reprend sa place. Quand il y a terroir plus ou moins scientifiquement affirmé les pro­fessionnels qui désignent leur produit par le nom géographique du lieu de production souhaitent, dans leur intérêt et celui des consommateurs, réserver ce nom au produit élaboré dans une “région déterminée” pour les vins, dans une “zone de production” pour les autres produits agricoles. Progresser dans le sens de la définition des terroirs implique des procé­dures juridiquement définies de délimitation (I) et entraîne la volonté de protection des ter­roirs (II).

DOI:

Publication date: March 2, 2022

Issue: Terroir 1998

Type: Article

Authors

JACQUES AUDIER

Professeur à la Faculté de droit et de science politique d’Aix-Marseille.
Conseiller chargé des questions juridiques de l’Office International de la Vigne et du Vin. Membre du comité scientifique AOP-IGP auprès de la Commission européenne.

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 1998

Citation

Related articles…

Pruned vine biomass exclusion from a clay loam vineyard soil – examining the impact on physical/chemical properties

The wine industry worldwide faces increasing challenges to achieve sustainable levels of carbon emission mitigation. This project seeks to establish the feasibility of harvesting winter pruned vineyard biomass (PVB) for potential use in carbon footprint reduction, through its use as a renewable biofuel for energy production. In order to make this recommendation, technical issues such as the potential environmental impact, chemical composition and fuel suitability, and logistical challenges of harvesting biomass needs to be understood to compare with the results from similar studies. Of particular interest is the role PVB plays as a carbon source in vineyard soils and what effect annual removal might have on soil carbon sequestration. A preliminary trial was established in the Waite Campus vineyard (University of Adelaide) to test current management strategies. Vines are grown in a Eutrophic, Red Dermosol clay loam soil with well managed midrow swards. A comparison was undertaken of mid-row treatments in two 0.25 Ha blocks (Shiraz and Semillon), including annual cultivation for seed bed preparation, the deliberate exclusion of PVB (25 years) and incorporation of PVB (13 years) at an average of 3.4 and 5.5 Mg/Ha-1 for Shiraz and Semillon respectively. In both 0-10cm and 10-30cm soil core sample depths, combined soil carbon % measures in the desired range of 1.80 to 3.50, were not significantly different between treatments or cultivars and yielded an estimated 42 Mg/ha-1 of sequestered soil carbon. Other key physical and chemical measures were likewise not significantly different between treatments. Preliminary results suggest that in a temperate zone vineyard, managed such as the one used in this study, there is no long term negative impact on soil carbon sequestration through removing PVB. This implies that growers could confidently harvest PVB for use in several end fates including as a bio fuel.

Low-cost sensors as a support tool to monitor soil-plant heat exchanges in a Mediterranean vineyard

Mediterranean viticulture is increasingly exposed to more frequent extreme conditions such as heat waves. These extreme events co-occur with low soil water content, high air vapor pressure deficit and high solar radiant energy fluxes and result in leaf and berry sunburn, lower yield, and berry quality, which is a major constraint for the sustainability of the sector. Grape growers must find ways to proper and effectively manage heat waves and extreme canopy and berry temperatures. Irrigation to keep soil moisture levels and enable adequate plant turgor, and convective and evaporative cooling emerged as a key tool to overcome this major challenge. The effects of irrigation on soil and plant water status are easily quantifiable but the impact of irrigation on soil and canopy temperature and on heat convection from soil to cluster zone remain less characterized. Therefore, a more detailed quantification of vineyard heat fluxes is highly relevant to better understand and implement strategies to limit the effects of extreme weather events on grapevine leaf and berry physiology and vineyards performance. Low-cost sensor technologies emerge as an opportunity to improve monitoring and support decision making in viticulture. However, validation of low-cost sensors is mandatory for practical applicability. A two-year study was carried in a vineyard in Alentejo, south of Portugal, using low-cost thermal cameras (FLIR One, 80×60 pixels and FLIR C5, 160×120 pixels, 8-14 µm, FLIR systems, USA) and pocket thermohygrometers (Extech RHT30, EXTECH instruments, USA) to monitor grapevine and soil temperatures. Preliminary results show that low-cost cameras can detect severe water stress and support the evaluation of vertical canopy temperature variability, providing information on soil surface temperature. All these thermal parameters can be relevant for soil and crop management and be used in decision support systems.

Frost risk projections in a changing climate are highly sensitive in time and space to frost modelling approaches

Late spring frost is a major challenge for various winegrowing regions across the world, its occurrence often leading to important yield losses and/or plant failure. Despite a significant increase in minimum temperatures worldwide, the spatial and temporal evolution of spring frost risk under a warmer climate remains largely uncertain. Recent projections of spring frost risk for viticulture in Europe throughout the 21st century show that its evolution strongly depends on the model approach used to simulate budburst. Furthermore, the frost damage modelling methods used in these projections are usually not assessed through comparison to field observations and/or frost damage reports.
The present study aims at comparing frost risk projections simulated using six spring frost models based on two approaches: a) models considering a fixed damage threshold after the predicted budburst date (e.g BRIN, Smoothed-Utah, Growing Degree Days, Fenovitis) and b) models considering a dynamic frost sensitivity threshold based on the predicted grapevine winter/spring dehardening process (e.g. Ferguson model). The capability of each model to simulate an actual frost event for the Vitis vinifera cv. Chadonnay B was previously assessed by comparing simulated cold thermal stress to reports of events with frost damage in Chablis, the northernmost winegrowing region of Burgundy. Models exhibited scores of κ > 0.65 when reproducing the frost/non-frost damage years and an accuracy ranging from 0.82 to 0.90.
Spring frost risk projections throughout the 21st century were performed for all winegrowing subregions of Bourgogne-Franche-Comté under two CMIP5 concentration pathways (4.5 and 8.5) using statistically downscaled 8×8 km daily air temperature and humidity of 13 climate models. Contrasting results with region-specific spring frost risk trends were observed. Three out of five models show a decrease in the frequency of frost years across the whole study area while the other two show an increase that is more or less pronounced depending on winegrowing subregion. Our findings indicate that the lack of accuracy in grapevine budburst and dehardening models makes climate projections of spring frost risk highly uncertain for grapevine cultivation regions.

Mechanisms involved in the heating of the environment by the aerodynamic action of a wind machine to protect a vineyard against spring frost

One of the main consequences of global warming is the rise of the mean temperature. Thus, the heat summation by the plants begins sooner in the early spring, and by cumulating growing degree-days, phenological development tends to happen earlier. However, spring frost is still a recurrent phenomenon causing serious damages to buds and therefore, threatening the harvests of the winegrowers. The wind machine is a solution to protect fruit crops against spring frost that is increasingly used. It is composed of a 10-m mast with a blowing fan at its peak. By tapping into the strength of the nocturnal thermal inversion, it sweeps the crop by propelling warm air above to the ground. Thus, stratification is momentarily suppressed. Furthermore, the continuous action of the machine, alone or in synergy, or the addition of a heater allow the bud to be bathed in a warmer environment. Also, the punctual action of the tower’s warm gust reaches the bud directly at each rotation period. All these actions allow the bud to continuously warm up, but with different intensities and over a different period. Although there is evidence of the effectiveness of the wind machines, the thermal transfers involved in those mechanisms raise questions about their true nature. Field measurements based on ultrasonic anemometers and fast responding thermocouples complemented by laboratory measurements on a reduced scale model allow to characterize both the airflow produced by the wind machine and the local temperature in its vicinity. Those experiments were realized in the vineyard of Quincy, in the framework of the SICTAG project. In the future paper, we will detail the aeraulic characterization of the wind machine and the thermal effects resulting from it and we will focus on how the wind machine warms up the local atmosphere and enables to reduce the freezing risk.

The interplay between grape ripening and weather anomalies – A modeling exercise

Current climate change is increasing inter- and intra-annual variability in atmospheric conditions leading to grapevine phenological shifts as well altered grape ripening and composition at ripeness. This study aims to (i) detect weather anomalies within a long-term time series, (ii) model grape ripening revealing altered traits in time to target specific ripeness thresholds for four Vitis vinifera cultivars, and (iii) establish empirical relationships between ripening and weather anomalies with forecasting purposes. The Day of the Year (DOY) to reach specific grape ripeness targets was determined from time series of sugar concentrations, total acidity and pH collected from a private company in the period 2009-2021 in North-Eastern Italy. Non-linear models for the DOY to reach the specified ripeness thresholds were assessed for model efficiency (EF) and error of prediction (RMSE) in four grapevine cultivars (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Glera and Garganega). For each vintage and cultivar, advances or delays in DOY to target specified ripeness thresholds were assessed with respect to the average ripening dynamics. Long-term meteorological series monitored at ground weather station by means of hourly air temperature and rainfall data were analyzed. Climate statistics were obtained and for each time period (month, bimester, quarter and year) weather anomalies were identified. A linear regression analysis was performed to assess a possible correlation that may exist between ripening and weather anomalies. For each cultivar, ripeness advances or delays expressed in number of days to target the specific ripening threshold were assessed in relation to registered weather anomalies and the specific reference time period in the vintage. Precipitation of the warmest month and spring quarter are key to understanding the effect of climate change on sugar ripeness. Minimum temperatures of May-June bimester and maximum temperatures of spring quarter best correlate with altered total acidity evolution and pH increment during the ripening process, respectively.