Viticulture, landscapes and the marketing of our wine

The evolution of wine quality issues is historically expressed by the passage from wine quality (what is a wine?) to wine quality (what is a good wine?). Perhaps the next question could be: what is a good sustainable wine? To contribute to reflection on this theme, it may be worthwhile to undertake an exercise in prospective fiction, which we have identified in the hypothesis of the AOD, the “appellation d’origine durable”, a scenario we will develop in the light of developments in the wine industry and the regulation on geographical indications.

An experimental vineyard with a radial array was planted in 2018, to provide valuable information on the relationship between orientation and planting density on plant physiology and cluster microclimate, and the consequent impacts on grape secondary metabolites, including aromas and polyphenols.

Astringency has been defined by the American Society for Testing Materials as “the complex of sensations due to shrinking, drawing or puckering of the epithelium as a result of exposure to substances such as alums or tannins”. Regarding the importance of astringency in wine consumer acceptance, elucidating the molecular mechanisms underpinning this complex sensation represents an important goal for scientists. Although different mechanisms have been described (Gibbins & Carpenter, 2013), the salivary protein precipitation is still the most accepted theory. According to this, wine astringency perceived in the oral cavity is originally attributed to the interaction and subsequence precipitation of salivary proteins by wine tannins –mainly flavanols–.

Climate is an important component or determinant of terroir, especially at the regional level. One can define three levels of terroir. These are the macro– or regional scale, which applies over tens of kilometres of the landscape. The second level is the meso- scale, which applies over kilometres or hundreds of meters, at the individual vineyard scale.

In 2020, 12% of all bottled German wines were aromatized, which may increase further due to rising popularity of dealcoholized wines. As sealing polymers of a bottling line absorb aroma compounds and may release them into regular wines in the next filling¹, this unintentional carry-over bears the risk to violate the legal ban of any aromatization of regular wine. However, following EU legislation, German food control authorities accept a technical unavoidable transfer of aroma compounds, if this is of no sensory significance.