The social construction of wine-growing areas: the “Graves de Bordeaux”

The movement of Natural wines has clearly increased in the last few years, to reach a high demand from consumers nowadays. Switzerland has not been left out of this movement and has created a dedicated association in 2021. This association has the ambition to develop a specific tasting sheet for natural wines. The study of the tasting notes shows that the olfactory description of wines is recent but predominant today. But wine is a product makes to be drunk and not (just) to smell it. Based on these findings, a new 100-point tasting sheet has been developed. The main characteristics are 1) an evaluation in the mouth before the description of the olfaction, 2) to give 50% of the points on the judgment for the mouth characteristics, 3) to pejorate the visual aspects only if the wine is judged as “not drinkable” and 4) to express personal emotions.

Soil management through cover crops can influence the cycle of nutrients, promote water infiltration, decrease erosion, and enhance the soil microbiota biodiversity, improving the grapevine performance. However, the area under the vines tends to be left bare by applying herbicides or tillage to avoid competition with the crop in semi-arid climates. Use of covers under-vine might be an alternative to these practices aiming at grapevine quality and soil health improvement. The aim of this research was to study the implications of soil management under the vines (cultivation and cover crops) on growth, yield, berry composition and soil microbial communities. A cover crop composed by a mixture of legumes was sown and compared with a control (cultivation), which includes frequent tillage to keep the soil bare, in three areas characterized by different edaphoclimatic conditions in the region of Navarra.

Climate change poses several challenges for the wine-industry in the 21st century. Adaptation of viticultural and winemaking practices are therefore essential to preserve wine quality and typicity. Given the complex interactions between physical, biological and human factors at terroir scales, studies conducted at these fine scales allow to better define the local environment and its influences on grapevine growth and berry ripening.

The aim of this study is to provide an overview of the terroir of Saint-Romain, Burgundy, based on three main information sources: official data relating to vines (CVI), soil cartography and a survey of winegrowers’ practices.

At a time when the world’s winegrowing industry is having to adapt to a number of challenges, winegrowers are wondering about the consequent changes they will have to make (grape varieties, changes in vineyard and cellar techniques). For winegrowers and consumers alike, there is also the question of how these changes will affect the taste of their wines. This research, based on the study of numerous sources and archives from the 20th century, some of which have never been published before, aims to show that, in the recent past, the winegrowing world has shown incredible resilience in the face of crises, and that the taste and perception of fine wines has changed considerably in 100 years.