The social construction of wine-growing areas: the “Graves de Bordeaux”

Climate influence on grapevine physiology is prevalent and this influence is only expected to increase with climate change. Although governed by a general determinism, climate influence on grapevine physiology may present variations according to the terroir. In addition, these site-specific differences are likely to be enhanced when climate influence is studied using farm data. Indeed, farm data integrate additional sources of variation such as a varying representativity of the conditions actually experienced in the field. Nevertheless, there is a real challenge in valuing farm data to enable grape growers to understand their own terroir and consequently adapt their practices to the local conditions. In such a context, this article proposes a framework to site-specifically study climate influence on grapevine physiology using farm data. It focuses on improving the analysis of time series of weather data. The analytical framework includes the synchronization of time series using site-specific thermal indices computed with an original method called Extended Growing Degree Days (eGDD). Synchronized time series are then analyzed using a Bayesian functional Linear regression with Sparse Steps functions (BLiSS) in order to detect site-specific periods of strong climate influence on yield development. The article focuses on temperature and rain influence on grape yield development as a case study. It uses data from three commercial vineyards respectively situated in the Bordeaux region (France), California (USA) and Israel. For all vineyards, common periods of climate influence on yield development were found. They corresponded to already known periods, for example around veraison of the year before harvest. However, the periods differed in their precise timing (e.g. before, around or after veraison), duration and correlation direction with yield. Other periods were found for only one or two vineyards and/or were not referred to in literature, for example during the winter before harvest.

In the winemaking process, several compounds that remain in the grape skins and seeds after the fermentation stage are bioactive-compounds (substances with potential beneficial effects on health) that can be extracted in order to recovery valuable substances with a high commercial value for the cosmetic, food (nutraceuticals) and pharmaceutical industries. The skins contain significant amounts of bioactive substances such as tannins (16-27%) and other polyphenolic compounds (2-6.5%) in particular, catechins, anthocyanins, proanthocyanins, quercetin , ellagic acid and resveratrol.

Nowadays, many policies are being adopted for direct agriculture towards more sustainable approaches. To continue to maintain a high production using fewer fertilizers, pesticides and water resources, agronomic techniques must be combined with biotechnological approaches. In grapevine, the breeding programs are restricted by the fact that it has a highly heterozygous genome, therefore, if on the one hand, we try to improve the characteristics, on the other hand it is necessary to preserve the original genome of the varieties. CRISPR-cas9 system is one of the smartest tools to carry out highly precise genetic modifications leaving the genetic background unchanged.

Terroir is a complex concept which associates soil, climate, grape variety and cultural practices that include the training system and oenological techniques. It is a type of social construction with man at its centre. The typicality of a wine is also a social construction which is the result of an agreement among specialists vis à vis a given quality of the wine whose references are the wine’s origins (e.g. terroir) and taste.

In the context of climate change, it is essential to provide producers with alternatives based on local grape varieties capable of meeting modern quality and sustainability requirements.