Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Report on the work carried out by the zoning group of the O.I.V.

Report on the work carried out by the zoning group of the O.I.V.

Abstract

[English version below]

La création officielle du groupe Experts Zonage Vitivinicole à l’O.I.V., qui s’inscrit dans la Commission Viticulture, est récente. Le Professeur Mario FREGONI en assure la présidence depuis 1998, assisté du vice-président et du secrétaire général Mario FALCETTI. Ils ont été confirmés dans leurs fonctions lors des sessions de mars 2001. Actuellement, le groupe d’experts Zonage Vitivinicole de l’O.I.V. se compose de 40 délégués, représentant 18 pays membres. La mise en place de ce groupe a tout d’abord été initiée par l’Instituto Agrario de San Michele (Italie) et l’Unité de Recherches Vigne et Vin du Centre INRA d’Angers (France). Une collaboration entre les chercheurs s’est installée très tôt, dès 1987. Puis, celle-ci a été très largement encouragée lors de contacts établis par le Chargé de Mission de l’Ambassade R.S.A. en France, au près des diverses équipes qui travaillent sur le sujet (San Michele, Angers, Piacenza, Milan, Madrid), ainsi qu’avec la Direction Générale de l’Institut National des Appellations d’Origine de France. Tous les échanges ont conduit au 1er Colloque International sur les Terroirs Viticoles à Angers en 1996 avec une organisation bicéphale (URVV Angers et ISVV Montpellier). Une enquête de l’O.I.V. sur les travaux de zonage vitivinicole a été réalisée en 1997 et 1998 et les résultats restitués en 1999. Elle fait ressortir le nombre important d’études entreprises dans le monde, en France surtout, mais également en Italie. Trois congrès ont suivi : Sienne en 1998, Tenerife en 2000 et Avignon en 2002. Une des principales résolutions a été exprimée lors des conclusions du dernier congrès à Tenerife. Elle suggère de créer des groupes nationaux ayant pour objectif de faire le point, par pays, sur les dossiers “terroirs” et de réfléchir sur les méthodologies employées. Le souci majeur est de faire ressortir les éléments du milieu naturel qui concourent à l’originalité des vins d’une région, afin d’en expliciter les effets. L’objectif à atteindre est bien de préciser pour une région viticole donnée, les facteurs naturels qui génèrent « l’authenticité » par une prise en compte rationnelle de la variabilité induite par le couple génotype x milieu. De ce fait, la notion de «Terroir» devient un élément clé, mais il doit être précisé.

The official establishment of the group of experts of distribution in zones of OIV Vitiviniculture which arises from the Commission of vine growing – is recent. The professor Mario FREGONI is its present since 1998, and he has been re-elected during March 2001 meetings assisted of vice-president and company secretary Mario FALCETTI. Nowadays, the OIV Vitiviniculture Zoning Expert Group is composed by 40 delegates, representing 18 member countries. The creation of this group has been initiated by the Instituto Agrario of San Michele (Italy) and Unité de Recherches Vigne et Vin of INRA centre of Angers (France). Collaboration between the researchers has been installed since 1987. The responsible of the Embassy of R.S.A. in France has been establishing contacts with the several teams (San Michele, Angers, Piacenza, Milan, Madrid) that work on the matter and with the General Direction of Institut National des Appellations d’Origine (INAO), France. All the exchanges have led to the, First International conference on the Terroir at Angers in 1996, organized by URVV Angers and ISVV Montpellier. An OIV enquiry on the vitiviniculture zoning works was realized in 97 and 98 and the results published in 99. It shows the important number of undertaken studies in the world, especially in France, but also in Italy. Three congresses followed: Siena in 1998, Tenerife in 2000 and Avignon in 2002. One of the main resolutions approved at the end of the last meeting, Tenerife 2000, suggests creating national groups with the objective to define, per country, the «Terroir » files and to reflect upon the used methodologies. The major issue is to show the elements of the natural environment that contributes to the originality of the wines of a region as to show its influences. The aim is to describe for a specific viticultural region the natural factors that generate the « authenticity » through taking rationally into account the variability induced by interaction between genotype and environment. As such, the notion of «Terroir » becomes a key element, but needs to be précised.

DOI:

Publication date: February 15, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2002

Type: Article

Authors

ASSELIN Christian

INRA UVV – 42 rue Georges Morel – 49070 BEAUCOUZE

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2002

Citation

Related articles…

Biodiversity in the vineyard agroecosystem: exploring systemic approaches

Biodiversity conservation and restoration are essential for guarantee the provision of ecosystem services associated to vineyard agroecosystem such as climate regulation trough carbon sequestration and control of pests and diseases. Most of published research dealing with the complexity of the vineyard agroecosystems emphasizes the necessity of innovative approaches, including the integration of information at different temporal and spatial scales and development of systemic analysis based on modelling. A biodiversity survey was conducted in the Franciacorta wine-growing area (Lombardy, Italy), one of the most important Italian wine-growing regions for sparkling wine production, considering a portion of the territory of 112 ha. The area was divided into several Environmental Units (EUs), defined as a whole vineyard or portion of vineyard homogenous in terms of four agronomic characteristics: planting year, planting density, cultivar, and training system. In each EU a set of compartments was identified and characterised by specific variables. The compartments are meteorology, morphology (altitude, slope, aspect, row orientation, and solar irradiance), ecological infrastructures and management. The landscape surrounding EU was also characterised in terms of land-use in a buffer zone of 500 m. For each component a specific methodology was identified and applied. Different statistical approaches were used to evaluate the method to integrate the information related to different compartments within the EU and related to the buffer zone. These approaches were also preliminarily evaluated for their ability to describe the contribution of biodiversity and landscape components to ecosystem services. This methodological exploration provides useful indication for the development of a fully systemic approach to structural and functional biodiversity in vineyard agroecosystems, contributing to promote a multifunctional perspective for the all wine-growing sector.

Climate ethnography and wine environmental futures

Globalisation and climate change have radically transformed world wine production upsetting the established order of wine ecologies. Ecological risks and the future of traditional agricultural systems are widely debated in anthropology, but very little is understood of the particular challenges posed by climate change to viticulture which is seen by many as the canary in the coalmine of global agriculture. Moreover, wine as a globalised embedded commodity provides a particularly telling example for the study of climate change having already attracted early scientific attention. Studies of climate change in viticulture have focused primarily on the production of systematic models of adaptation and vulnerability, while the human and cultural factors, which are key to adaptation and sustainable futures, are largely missing. Climate experts have been unanimous in recognising the urgent need for a better understanding of the complex dynamics that shape how climate change is experienced and responded to by human systems. Yet this call has not yet been addressed. Climate ethnography, coined by the anthropologist Susan Crate (2011), aims to bridge this growing disjuncture between climate science and everyday life through the exploration of the social meaning of climate change. It seeks to investigate the confrontation of its social salience in different locations and under different environmental guises (Goodman 2018: 340). By understanding how wine producers make sense of the world (and the environment) and act in it, it proposes to focus on the co-production of interdisciplinary knowledge by identifying and foreshadowing problems (Goodman 2018: 342; Goodman & Marshall 2018). It seeks to offer an original, transformative and contrasted perspective to climate change scenarios by investigating human agency -individual or collective- in all its social, political and cultural diversity. An anthropological approach founded on detailed ethnographies of wine production is ideally placed to address economic, social and cultural disruptions caused by the emergence of these new environmental challenges. Indeed, the community of experts in environmental change have recently called for research that will encompass the human dimension and for more broad-based, integrated through interdisciplinarity, useful knowledge (Castree & al 2014). My paper seeks to engage with climate ethnography and discuss what it brings to the study of wine environmental futures while exploring the limitations of the anthropological environmental approach.

How distinctive are single vineyard Gewürztraminer musts and wines from Alto Adige (Italy) based on untargeted analysis, sensory profiling, and chemometric elaboration?

Vitis vinifera L. ‘Gewürztraminer’ is a historical grape variety of Alto Adige (Südtirol), Italy, which is widely grown in the area of Tramin an der Weinstraße, but is also grown globally. It produces highly aromatic wines that are strongly influenced by the terroir of the vineyard sites where they are grown. This study looked at musts and young wines from ‘Gewürztraminer’ grapes harvested in seven distinct vineyards near Tramin and then processed at Cantina di Termeno, minimizing winemaking protocol variability. Samples were profiled using bidimensional gas chromatography–time-of-flight mass spectrometry, liquid chromatography coupled to electrochemical detection, and near-IR spectrometry. The data were subjected to Principle Component Analysis and Hierarchical Clustering Analysis. Sensory discriminant testing was undertaken using the sorting method with a semi-trained panel, and the data were processed using Multidimensional Scaling. Seven must/wine pairs could be distinguished based on their untargeted volatilome profiles and on sensory evaluation. As expected, there were greater differences in the volatile compounds between the wines than between the musts. The wines from vineyards 4 and 5 were nonetheless quite homogenous in terms of chemical and sensory analyses, as were the wines from vineyards 1 and 3. For the phenolic profile, differences were noted between the musts and wines of vineyards 2, 3, and 4, but the musts from vineyards 5 and 7 were similar. Sensory analysis showed the wines from vineyards 6 and 7 to be distinct from the rest. These results reinforce that the composition of ‘Gewürztraminer’ musts and wines is strongly determined by vineyard site, even in a small geographic area with high variability of the terroir (soil and microclimate), and that these differences are apparent in the flavours and aromas of the finished wines. Further confirmation would require a larger sample of wines, preferably from several vintages.

Sustaining wine identity through intra-varietal diversification

With contemporary climate change, cultivated Vitis vinifera L. is at risk as climate is a critical component in defining ecologically fitted plant materiel. While winegrowers can draw on the rich diversity among grapevine varieties to limit expected impacts (Morales-Castilla et al., 2020), replacing a signature variety that has created a sense of local distinctiveness may lead to several challenges. In order to sustain wine identity in uncertain climate outcomes, the study of intra-varietal diversity is important to reflect the adaptive and evolutionary potential of current cultivated varieties. The aim of this ongoing study is to understand to what extent can intra-varietal diversity be a climate change adaptation solution. With a focus on early (Sauvignon blanc, Riesling, Grolleau, Pinot noir) to moderate late (Chenin, Petit Verdot, Cabernet franc) ripening varieties, data was collected for flowering and veraison for the various studied accessions (from conservatory plots) and clones. For these phenological growing stages, heat requirements were established using nearby weather stations (adapted from the GFV model, Parker et al., 2013) and model performances were verified. Climate change projections were then integrated to predict the future behaviour of the intra-varietal diversity. Study findings highlight the strong phenotypic diversity of studied varieties and the importance of diversification to enhance climate change resilience. While model performances may require improvements, this study is the first step towards quantifying heat requirements of different clones and how they can provide adaptation solutions for winegrowers to sustain local wine identity in a global changing climate. As genetic diversity is an ongoing process through point mutations and epigenetic adaptations, perspective work is to explore clonal data from a wide variety of geographic locations.

Variations of soil attributes in vineyards influence their reflectance spectra

Knowledge on the reflectance spectrum of soil is potentially useful since it carries information on soil chemical composition that can be used to the planning of agricultural practices. If compared with analytical methods such as conventional chemical analysis, reflectance measurement provides non-destructive, economic, near real-time data. This paper reports results from reflectance measurements performed by spectroradiometry on soils from two vineyards in south Brazil. The vineyards are close to each other, are on different geological formations, but were subjected to the same management. The objective was to detect spectral differences between the two areas, correlating these differences to variations in their chemical composition, to assess the technique’s potential to predict soil attributes from reflectance data.To that end, soil samples were collected from ten selected vine parcels. Chemical analysis yield data on concentration of twenty-one soil attributes, and spectroradiometry was performed on samples. Chemical differences significant to a 95% confidence level between the two studied areas were found for six soil attributes, and the average reflectance spectra were separated by this same level along most of the observed spectral domain. Correlations between soil reflectance and concentrations of soil attributes were looked for, and for ten soil traits it was possible to define wavelength domains were reflectance and concentrations are correlated to confidence levels from 95% to 99%. Partial Least Squares Regression (PLSR) analyses were performed comparing measured and predicted concentrations, and for fifteen out of 21 soil traits we found Pearson correlation coefficients r > 0.8. These preliminary results, which have to be validated, suggest that variations of concentration in the investigated soil attributes induce differences in reflectance that can be detected by spectroradiometry. Applications of these observations include the assessment of the chemical content of soils by spectroradiometry as a fast, low-cost alternative to chemical analytical methods.