The influence of the soil on the phenolic composition of both grapes and wines : “the Grenache observatory”

La caractérisation des terroirs viticoles est traditionnellement basée sur des descripteurs de la géologie et de la pédologie des différents milieux rencontrés, couplées à des données climatiques

In this video recording of the IVES science meeting 2021, Fulvio Mattivi (Fondazione Edmund Mach, Centro Ricerca ed Innovazione, San Michele all’Adige, Italy) speaks about the effects of water deficit on secondary metabolites in grapes and wines. This presentation is based on an original article accessible for free on OENO One.

Introduction increasing sustainability is essential and a societal challenge, requiring fundamental changes in behaviour and attitudes. This applies to both producers and consumers. For the wine industry in particular, such a change is a major challenge. An eip-agri research project is evaluating the introduction of a returnable glass system in the german wine industry as a key solution for increasing sustainability. Given the need for change associated with a returnable system, the project is theoretically grounded in systems innovation, as this approach provides solutions for complex, transformative change.

One of the main challenges in the wine industry is to understand how different wine processing techniques and practices can influence the overall quality of the final product.

Globalisation and climate change have radically transformed world wine production upsetting the established order of wine ecologies. Ecological risks and the future of traditional agricultural systems are widely debated in anthropology, but very little is understood of the particular challenges posed by climate change to viticulture which is seen by many as the canary in the coalmine of global agriculture. Moreover, wine as a globalised embedded commodity provides a particularly telling example for the study of climate change having already attracted early scientific attention. Studies of climate change in viticulture have focused primarily on the production of systematic models of adaptation and vulnerability, while the human and cultural factors, which are key to adaptation and sustainable futures, are largely missing. Climate experts have been unanimous in recognising the urgent need for a better understanding of the complex dynamics that shape how climate change is experienced and responded to by human systems. Yet this call has not yet been addressed. Climate ethnography, coined by the anthropologist Susan Crate (2011), aims to bridge this growing disjuncture between climate science and everyday life through the exploration of the social meaning of climate change. It seeks to investigate the confrontation of its social salience in different locations and under different environmental guises (Goodman 2018: 340). By understanding how wine producers make sense of the world (and the environment) and act in it, it proposes to focus on the co-production of interdisciplinary knowledge by identifying and foreshadowing problems (Goodman 2018: 342; Goodman & Marshall 2018). It seeks to offer an original, transformative and contrasted perspective to climate change scenarios by investigating human agency -individual or collective- in all its social, political and cultural diversity. An anthropological approach founded on detailed ethnographies of wine production is ideally placed to address economic, social and cultural disruptions caused by the emergence of these new environmental challenges. Indeed, the community of experts in environmental change have recently called for research that will encompass the human dimension and for more broad-based, integrated through interdisciplinarity, useful knowledge (Castree & al 2014). My paper seeks to engage with climate ethnography and discuss what it brings to the study of wine environmental futures while exploring the limitations of the anthropological environmental approach.