Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Terroirs and legal protection

Terroirs and legal protection

Abstract

[English version below]

Le concept AOC permet, par une délimitation précise, la mise en valeur de terroirs particulièrement adaptés à la viticulture. Seuls les terroirs ainsi identifiés peuvent produire des vins portant le nom de l’AOC. Le nom de cette AOC ne peut être utilisé que pour des vins issus de terroirs compris dans l’aire d’appellation, sous peine de sanctions pénales. La délimitation ainsi opérée participe à la protection du nom de l’AOC. A l’inverse, le terroir délimité n’est pas protégé.
Pourtant, il est victime d’agressions régulières :
– agressions matérielles : création de routes, autoroutes, lotissement, carrières….qui réduisent l’aire d’appellation;
– agressions intellectuelles : implantations d’usines, de centrales nucléaires, de centre de transit de carcasses d’animaux, de station d’épuration…qui nuisent à l’image de l’appellation et risquent parfois de porter atteinte à la qualité de la production (pollution du vignoble).
Ces menaces sont permanentes et les outils de protection juridique sont insuffisants.

La protection devrait intervenir :
– au moment de l’élaboration des documents d’urbanisme ;
– lors de l’instruction des dossiers concernant les projets menaçants.
Les procédures existant actuellement prévoient :
– un simple rôle consultatif de l’INAO dans certains cas déterminés ;
– la possibilité pour les syndicats de défense des appellations, dès qu’ils estiment qu’une atteinte est possible, d’obliger l’autorité décisionnaire à consulter le Ministre de l’Agriculture avant toute prise de décision. En aucun cas, les décisions ne doivent être conformes aux avis rendus.
Récemment, le législateur a créé la notion de «zone agricole protégée » destinée à limiter les autorisations de construire dans ces zones. Mais, aucune ZAP n’a encore été créée.

Face à ces carences, certains professionnels s’orientent vers une protection via les outils de protection des paysages ou sites exceptionnels : ZPPAUP, inscription au patrimoine de l’UNESCO. La rédaction de chartes paysagères se développe également bien qu’elles ne constituent que des documents prospectifs. La mise en œuvre de ces protections passe bien souvent par la réalisation d’un nouveau zonage.

Thanks to a precise delimitation, the AOC concept enhances the value of terroirs particularly suited to viticulture. Only the terroirs thus identified can produce wines with an AOC label. The name of the AOC can only be used for wines from the terroirs within the area of appellation; misuse is subject to legal sanctions. The delimitation thus established is designed to protect the AOC name. Conversely, the terroir delimited is not protected.
It comes, however, under regular attack :
– in practice: creation of roads, highways; housing estates, quarries…which reduce the appellation area;
– in theory : creation of factories; nuclear power plants, animal carcass transit centers, waste water treatment plants…that undermine the image of the appellation and may even impair the quality of production (pollution of the vineyard).
These threats are permanent and the tools for legal protection insufficient.

Protection should apply:
– when town and country planning documents are being drafted;
– when threatening projects are subject to legal inquiry.
Current procedures provide that :
– the INAO may play an advisory role only in certain specific cases;
– unions for the defense of appellations, in the event they deem harm may occur, may oblige decision-making authorities to consult the minister for agriculture prior to any decision.
Under no circumstances do decisions have to be in keeping with the opinions handed down. Legislators recently created the concept of “protected agricultural zone” (ZAP) designed to limit the number of building permits in these areas. However, not a single ZAP has as yet been set up.

In light of these shortcomings, certain professionals are turning towards protection via instruments to protect landscapes or exceptional sites: ZPPAUP, designation as UNESCO heritage. The drafting of landscape charters is also developing, although they are merely prospective documents. The actual implementation of these forms of protection often calls for new zoning.

DOI:

Publication date: February 15, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2002

Type: Article

Authors

Charlotte ASSEMAT

Syndicat Général des Vignerons Réunis des Côtes du Rhône, 6, rue des 3 Faucons, 84000 AVIGNON

Contact the author

Keywords

Terroir viticole, AOC, protection juridique
Terroir, legal protection

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2002

Citation

Related articles…

Climate change impacts on Douro Region viticulture and adaptation measures

Climate has a significant impact in the success of any agricultural system, with a direct influence on the crops suitability to a given region, interfering on yield and quality and also with the economic sustainability of the productive activity. In the Douro Demarcated Region (RDD), as in most regions of the Mediterranean climate, the scarce precipitation (33% has less than 600 mm per year), and your high variability, associated with high rates of evapotranspiration during the summer, is usually one of the fundamental factors that limit the grapevine development, as well as the production and quality of the harvest. Thus, facing the scenario in temperature changes for the next decades (1.5-2.5°C) and confirming the predictions of precipitation decreases and/or great variability in the occurrence of heat waves and intense rainfall, the consequences for slope stability in mountain viticulture and sustainability of all operations involved, are risks to be taken into account. In this way, a deepest and sustained knowledge regarding the adaptation measures to adverse environmental conditions is of a crucial importance, enabling a more efficient adaptation of plant growth conditions and the optimization of production and quality of the grapevines. The development of this work, carried out in two commercial vineyards, one located in Soutelo do Douro, São João da Pesqueira, Cima Corgo sub-region, and another located in Numão, Vila Nova de Foz Côa, Douro Superior sub-region, it seeks to establish a relationship between climatic elements and physiological, productive and qualitative parameters, as well as to evaluate the effectiveness of adaptation measures, including different types of deficit irrigation (2002-2019) and the application of shading nets (2019-2020) in the physiological, viticultural and oenological behavior in the Touriga Nacional and Moscatel Galego Branco varieties, respectively. The results showed that the application of deficit irrigation allowed to significantly reduce the impact of the adverse weather conditions at key moments in the development of the grapevine, particularly in the period immediately before veráison and maturation, reducing the negative effects on the physiological processes and productivity, without compromise the must quality parameters. On the other hand, the application of shading nets significantly reduced de leaves temperature, allowing to increase the water potential, stomatal conductance and photosynthetic rate of grapes, which was reflected in the yield increase in the 2nd year of the study. For the maturation indicators, higher levels of total acidity, malic acid and assimilable nitrogen were obtained. The last measure presents a huge potential, being essential to carry out more years of trials to obtain stronger conclusions in terms of production parameters, but also in characteristics as important as the grape ripening components and the organoleptic characteristics of wines.

Mesoclimate impact on Tannat in the Atlantic terroir of Uruguay

The study of climate is relevant as an element conditioning the typicity of a product, its quality and sustainability over the years. The grapevine development and growth and the final grape and wine composition are closely related to temperature, while climate components vary at mesoscale according to topography and/or proximity to large bodies of water. The objective of this work is to assess the mesoclimate of the Atlantic region of Uruguay and to determine the effect of topography and the ocean on temperature and consequently on Tannat grapevine behavior.

Diagnosis of soil quality and evaluation of the impact of viticultural practices on soil biodiversity in a vineyard in southwestern France

Viticulture is facing two major changes – climate change and agroecological transition. In both cases, soil quality is seen as a lever to move towards a more sustainable viticulture. However, soil biological quality is little considered in the implementation of viticultural practices. Gascogn’Innov (2017-2022) is an Operational Group funded by the European Innovation Partnership for Agriculture. As such, it brings together winegrowers from the south-west of France, scientists, advisors and technicians, around a project focused on viticultural soil biological functioning and the design of technical routes more respectful toward soil heritage. To achieve this, the project aims to acquire references on the impact of viticultural practices on soil biology from a dynamic way, and to test a methodology to integrate information provided by the soil bioindicators to manage farming systems. A set of indicators of soil biological quality are evaluated in the project: microorganisms (bacteria and fungi abundance and diversity), fauna (abundance and diversity of nematodes and earthworms), physico-chemical characteristics, soil structure assessment and degradation rate of organic matter. Based on a network of 13 plots that have been subject to an initial diagnosis in 2017, several agronomical practices to restore soil fertility are experimented to redesign the cropping system (for instance plant cover, organic matter inputs, reduction of herbicides, mineral fertilizers). System redesign was made in collaboration by winegrowers and an interdisciplinary group of experts (agronomists, biologists). Several indicators are measured on vine and soil at each vintage to assess vine health and productivity. At the end of the project (2021), a final diagnosis was carried out. Gascogn’Innov allowed to create a regional database on the quality of wine-growing soils, which permitted to evaluate the effect of practices according to soil types. Especially, decreasing the intensity of tillage and increasing the duration and diversity of grass coverage tends to increase the abundance of all the organisms studied. This project confirmed the value of soil biological quality indicators to drive the sustainability of practices, but also highlighted the key-role of expertise, in both agronomy and soil biology, to help winegrowers understand and appropriate their soil quality diagnoses.

Elucidating vineyard site contributions to key sensory molecules: Identification of correlations between elemental composition and volatile aroma profile of site-specific Pinot noir wines

The reproducibility of elemental profile in wines produced across multiple vintages has been previously reported using grapes from a single scion clone of Vitis vinifera L. cv. Pinot noir. The grapevines were grown on fourteen different vineyard sites, from Oregon to southern California in the U.S.A., which span distances from approximately hundreds of meters to 1450 km, while elevations range from near sea level to nearly 500 m. In addition, sensorial (i.e. aroma, taste, and mouthfeel) and chemical (i.e. polyphenolic and volatile) differences across the different vineyard sites have also been observed among these wines at two aging time points. While strong evidence exists to support that grapes grown in different regions can produce wines with unique chemical and sensorial profiles, even when a single clone is used, the understanding of growing site characteristics that result in this reproducible differentiation continues to emerge. One hypothesis is that the elemental profile that a vineyard site imparts to the grape berries and the resulting wine is an important contributor to this differentiation in chemistry and sensory of wines. For example, various classes of enzymes that catalyze the formation of key aroma compounds or their precursors require specific metals. In this work, we begin to report correlations between elemental and volatile aroma profiles of site-specific Pinot noir wines, made under standardized winemaking conditions, that have been previously shown to be distinguished separately by these chemical analyses.

Towards adaptation to climate change in Rioja: Quality evaluation of wines obtained from Grenache x Tempranillo selections

The wine sector is of great relevance and tradition in Mediterranean countries, however, it may be most susceptible to climate change. In recent years, wine production is facing changes worldwide, both at environmental as well as commercial levels, due to global warming and the shift in consumers’ preferences. Wine growers and wine makers are in search of solutions that allow to face these new challenges. One of the most promising initiatives in the long term is the introduction of new plant materials, specifically intraspecific hybridizations between premium varieties that may improve traditional germplasm in its adaptation to climate change. These inter-varietal crosses have the potential to generate quality wines, whilst maintaining the regional typicity, and constitute an attractive alternative for the consumer due to their sensory attributes. In this study, we have evaluated wines from 29 intraspecific Garnacha x Tempranillo hybrids in two different locations, with the aim to assess their oenological potential and sensory attributes. Thirteen of the selections were white and 16 were red. Microvinifications were conducted with two or three replications depending on grape availability. Conventional oenological parameters were determined for all wines. The sensory evaluation and hedonic scores were given by five experts. Red selections obtained higher quality scores than white ones. Among the white selections with higher quality scores, GT-41 Varea and GT-159 Varea outstand, due to their high total acidity and high malic acid content. Regarding red selections, GT-57 Varea and GT-57 UR were perceived as higher in quality, highlighted for their moderate alcoholic and high anthocyanin content. Our results indicate that intraspecific hybridization may be a powerful tool for adapting traditional cultivars to climate change in Rioja.