Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Variabilité des critères de délimitation dans les AOC françaises

Variabilité des critères de délimitation dans les AOC françaises

Abstract

La délimitation de l’aire de production d’une appellation d’origine contrôlée française est une opération essentielle. Le décret-loi du 30 juillet 1935, qui a créé le système des appellations d’origine contrôlées l’a d’ailleurs placé en tête des conditions de production nécessaires à la reconnaissance de chaque AOC. C’est également ce seul élément que les premières tentatives de définition d’appellation d’origine avaient pris en compte (loi du 1er août 1905 donnant à l’Etat le soin de délimiter les zones ayant droit à l’utilisation des noms réputés, loi du 6 mai 1919 confiant cette même mission aux tribunaux civils).
A cette importance conceptuelle accordée à l’aire de production s’est ajoutée depuis quelques décades une importance économique. Le succès de la plupart des AOC françaises a entraîné une envolée des prix des terres à vigne. En Champagne, le prix d’une terre à vigne classée dans l’aire de production est 100 fois plus élevé que celui d’une terre à céréales située immédiatement à l’extérieur de l’aire, à quelques dizaine de mètres seulement.
Le choix et la précision des critères utilisés pour déterminer les limites des aires d’appellation sont donc d’une grande importance et doivent être justifiés. Le prix des terres à vigne mentionné plus haut suscite de nombreuses convoitises et les procès devant les tribunaux qui se sont multipliés ces dernières années, nous confortent dans notre souci d’avoir toujours travaillé avec une grande rigueur.
Avant d’étudier les différents critères utilisés, il convient de faire tout d’abord certaines distinctions et de rappeler certaines définitions.

DOI:

Publication date: February 24, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2000

Type: Article

Authors

Jacques FANET

INAO, 138 avenue des Champs Elysées – 75008 PARIS

Contact the author

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2000

Citation

Related articles…

The effect of soil and climate on the character of Sauvignon blanc wine

Un projet multidisciplinaire sur l’effet du sol et du climat sur la qualité du vin a débuté en Afrique du Sud il y a 5 ans. Des mesures sont effectuées sous culture sèche dans des vignes de Sauvignon Blanc dans six localités différentes, cinq dans le district de Stellenbosch et une à Durbanville.

Discriminant value of soil properties for terroir zoning

Environmental analysis (climate, vegetation, geomorfoloy-lanscape, lithology and soil) and its integration in a quality index taking the Appellation of Origin as the sole universe are used as general methodology for terroir zoning in Spain (Sotés and Gómez-Miguel, 1986-2005). This methodology is also applied to specific aspects of different Spanish Appellations of Origin (size, distribution and landscape peculiarities and vine occupation index).

What are the optimal ranges and thresholds for berry solar radiation for flavonoid biosynthesis?

In wine grape production, canopy management practices are applied to control the source-sink balance and improve the cluster microclimate to enhance berry composition. The aim of this study was to identify the optimal ranges of berry solar radiation exposure (exposure) for upregulation of flavonoid biosynthesis and thresholds for their degradation, to evaluate how canopy management practices such as leaf removal, shoot thinning, and a combination of both affect the grapevine (Vitis vinifera L. cv. Cabernet Sauvignon) yield components, berry composition, and flavonoid profile under context of climate change. First experiment assessed changes in the grape flavonoid content driven by four degrees of exposure. In the second experiment, individual grape berries subjected to different exposures were collected from two cultivars (Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot). The third experiment consisted of an experiment with three canopy management treatments (i) LR (removal of 5 to 6 basal leaves), (ii) ST (thinned to 24 shoots per vine), and (iii) LRST (a combination of LR and ST) and an untreated control (UNT). Berry composition, flavonoid content and profiles, and 3-isobutyl 2-methoxypyrazine were monitored during berry ripening. Although increasing canopy porosity through canopy management practices can be helpful for other purposes, this may not be the case of flavonoid compounds when a certain proportion of kaempferol was achieved. Our results revealed different sensitivities to degradation within the flavonoid groups, flavonols being the only monitored group that was upregulated by solar radiation. Within different canopy management practices, the main effects were due to the ST. Under environmental conditions given in this trial, ST and LRST hastened fruit maturity; however, a clear improvement of the flavonoid compounds (i.e., greater anthocyanin) was not observed at harvest. Methoxypyrazine berry content decreased with canopy management practices studied. Although some berry traits were improved (i.e. 2.5° Brix increase in berry total soluble solids) due to canopy management practices (ST), this resulted in a four-fold increase in labor operations cost, two-fold decrease in yield with a 10-fold increase in anthocyanin production cost per hectare that should be assessed together as the climate continues to get hot.

Oxygen consumption and changes in chemical composition of young wines

The study of the capacity to consume oxygen of the wines is an aspect of great interest since it allows to analyse their useful life.

Genomic characterization of terpene biosynthetic genes in seven Vitis vinifera L. varieties 

Grapes (Vitis vinifera L.) are a fruit crop of high economic significance globally. Each grapevine cultivar is characterized by its distinctive grape aroma, affecting the wine quality. In several cultivars, the aroma is shaped by terpenoid (mono- and sesqui-terpenoids). Their profile is controlled by terpene synthases (TPS), which are part of a largely expanded gene family. How the variation in TPS copy number and sequence among cultivars determines terpenoid profiles of grapes remains largely unexplored. We annotated TPS in the haplotypes of seven genomes (Riesling, Albariño, Fiano, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Viognier) using BLAST, GMAP, PFAM, and phylogenetic analyses. Further, TPS expression patterns and terpenoid accumulation during berry development and ripening were characterized using RNA-Seq and SPME/GC-MS platforms, respectively. Variation in TPS copy number exists among cultivars. Specifically, the TPS counts span a range of 251 to 150 for Riesling and Fiano, respectively, when considering combined haplotypes within each cultivar. Total terpenoid accumulation patterns throughout development were consistent among the five aromatic cultivars, marked by high concentrations in flowers, followed by a decline and subsequent rise during berry development and ripening, respectively. Conversely, non-aromatic cultivars exhibited no substantial increase in terpenoid concentration during ripening. Transcriptome and network analyses are currently employed to determine which TPS are expressed in the berry and determine the terpenoid profile of the specific cultivar. These findings shed light on the genomic determinants of grape aroma in major cultivars, and allow future studies focused on cultivar-specific responses of terpenoid biosynthesis to environmental stresses.