Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 La vinificación de las uvas aromáticas: Moscateles y Malvasías

La vinificación de las uvas aromáticas: Moscateles y Malvasías

Abstract

Las uvas aromáticas se pueden dividir en dos clases, Moscateles y Malvasías, dependiendo del hecho de que el linalol o el geraniol, respectivamente, sean los alcoholes terpénicos monohidroxilados que predominan en el jugo de la uva. Dentro de cada clase existen numerosas subclases que se diferencian por las relaciones entre los otros alcoholes terpénicos mono y dihidroxilados, en forma libre y glicosilada. Otra diferencia entre los Moscateles y las Malvasías es la cantidad de compuestos terpénicos libres del mosto, (los terpenos del hollejo, en las dos clases, se encuentran casi en su totalidad como formas glicosiladas) que puede ser alto como en el caso del Moscatel (linalol, óxido trans piránico del linalol, 2,6-dimetil-3,7-octadien-2,6-diol) o mas bién bajo como en el caso de las Malvasías (geraniol, 2,6-dimetil-3,7-octadien-2,6-diol), mientras que en los hollejos es una característica común a las dos clases la presencia de elevadas cantidades de nerol y de geraniol en forma glicosilada. La composición terpénica de las dos variedades condiciona, además del aroma del vino final, la tecnología de producción.En Italia con el “Moscato bianco” y con las Malvasías (“Malvasia di Casorzo”, “Malvasia di Castelnuovo don Bosco”, esta última en muchos aspectos parecida a los Moscateles, “Brachetto d’Acqui”, que son todas variedades tintas) se preparan dos tipos de vino: uno espumoso y uno no espumoso. El primero se caracteriza por un contenido alcohólico de aproximadamente un 7%y una concentración de azúcares de aproximadamente 70 g/L y el segundo por un grado alcohólico del 5 % y una cantidad de azúcares variable dependiendo de los gustos del productor.En la vinificación del “Moscato bianco” se utiliza solo el mosto (una eventual criomaceración no conlleva un aumento sensible en compuestos terpénicos), que es rico de linalol que no resulta ni absorbido ni metabolizado por las levaduras, mientras que en el caso de las Malvasías tintas, para cuya vinificación se utilizan también los hollejos, el geraniol, practicamente el único alcohol terpénico monohidroxilado presente en el mosto, es metabolizado parcialmente por las levaduras y en parte reducido a citronellol y estos dos compuestos, además del nerol, son transformados en derivados acetilados. Además, a causa de las elevadas cantidades de glucosa que se encuentran en el mosto durante toda la fase de preparación de los vinos de estas variedades, los enzimas glicosidásicos, del mosto o de las levaduras, no pueden transformar en los respectivos aglicones los glicósidos del nerol y del geraniol presentes en el mosto, que quedan, por lo tanto, en forma glicosilada, es decir, no aromática, en el vino final. Las técnicas tradicionales de vinificación establecen, para la extracción del color y de los compuestos terpénicos de los hollejos de las Malvasías tintas, continuos remontados cuando la fermentación todavía no ha empezado, o una fermentación parcial en presencia de los hollejos. Estas dos técnicas son insuficientes sea para extraer la gran cantidad de glicósidos del nerol y del geraniol de los hollejos, sea para hidrolizar los glicósidos terpénicos. En este trabajo se presenta una nueva técnica de vinificación, que favorece la extracción y la hidrólisis de los compuestos terpénicos de los hollejos de las Malvasías tintas y que incrementa sensiblemente la intensidad del aroma y la calidad de los vinos que se obtienen con esta variedad.

DOI:

Publication date: February 24, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2000 

Type: Article

Authors

Rocco Di Stefano*, Emilia García Moruno* and Monica Ribaldone**

*Istituto Sperimentale per l’Enologia, via P. Micca 35 — 14100 Asti (Italia)
**Consorzio per la tutela del Brachetto

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2000

Citation

Related articles…

The impact of leaf canopy management on eco-physiology, wood chemical properties and microbial communities in root, trunk and cordon of Riesling grapevines (Vitis vinifera L.)

In the last decades, climate change required already adaptation of vineyard management. Increase in temperature and unexpected weather events cause changes in all phenological stages requiring new management tools. For example, defoliation can be a useful tool to reduce the sugar content in the berries creating differences in the wine profiles. In a ten-year field experiment using Riesling (Vitis vinifera L, planted 1986, Geisenheim, Germany), various mechanical defoliation strategies and different intensities were trialed until 2016 before the vineyard was uprooted. Wood was sampled from the plant compartments root, trunk, cordon and shoot for analyses of physicochemical properties (e.g. lignin and element content, pH, diameter), nonstructural carbohydrates and the microbial communities. The aim of the study was to investigate the influence of reduced canopy leaf area on the sink-source allocation into different compartments and potential changes of the fungal and prokaryotic wood-inhabiting community using a metabarcoding approach. Severe summer pruning (SSP) of the canopy and mechanical defoliation (MDC) above the bunch zone decreased the leaf area by 50% compared to control (C). SSP reduced the photosynthetic capacity, which resulted in an altered source-sink allocation and carbohydrate storage. With lower leaf area, less carbohydrates are allocated. This for example resulted in a decreased trunk diameter. Further, it affected the composition of the grapevine wood microbiota. SSP and MDC management changed significantly the prokaryotic community composition in wood of the root samples, but had no effect in other compartments. In general, this study found strong compartment and less management effects of the microbial community composition and associated physicochemical properties. The highest microbial diversities were identified in the wood of the trunk, and several species were recorded the first time in grapevine.

Mechanisms involved in the heating of the environment by the aerodynamic action of a wind machine to protect a vineyard against spring frost

One of the main consequences of global warming is the rise of the mean temperature. Thus, the heat summation by the plants begins sooner in the early spring, and by cumulating growing degree-days, phenological development tends to happen earlier. However, spring frost is still a recurrent phenomenon causing serious damages to buds and therefore, threatening the harvests of the winegrowers. The wind machine is a solution to protect fruit crops against spring frost that is increasingly used. It is composed of a 10-m mast with a blowing fan at its peak. By tapping into the strength of the nocturnal thermal inversion, it sweeps the crop by propelling warm air above to the ground. Thus, stratification is momentarily suppressed. Furthermore, the continuous action of the machine, alone or in synergy, or the addition of a heater allow the bud to be bathed in a warmer environment. Also, the punctual action of the tower’s warm gust reaches the bud directly at each rotation period. All these actions allow the bud to continuously warm up, but with different intensities and over a different period. Although there is evidence of the effectiveness of the wind machines, the thermal transfers involved in those mechanisms raise questions about their true nature. Field measurements based on ultrasonic anemometers and fast responding thermocouples complemented by laboratory measurements on a reduced scale model allow to characterize both the airflow produced by the wind machine and the local temperature in its vicinity. Those experiments were realized in the vineyard of Quincy, in the framework of the SICTAG project. In the future paper, we will detail the aeraulic characterization of the wind machine and the thermal effects resulting from it and we will focus on how the wind machine warms up the local atmosphere and enables to reduce the freezing risk.

Effects of graft quality on growth and grapevine-water relations

Climate change is challenging viticulture worldwide compromising its sustainability due to warmer temperatures and the increased frequency of extreme events. Grafting Vitis vinifera L.

Teasing apart terroir: the influence of management style on native yeast communities within Oregon wineries and vineyards

Newer sequencing technologies have allowed for the addition of microbes to the story of terroir. The same environmental factors that influence the phenotypic expression of a crop also shape the composition of the microbial communities found on that crop. For fermented goods, such as wine, that microbial community ultimately influences the organoleptic properties of the final product that is delivered to customers. Recent studies have begun to study the biogeography of wine-associated microbes within different growing regions, finding that communities are distinct across landscapes. Despite this new knowledge, there are still many questions about what factors drive these differences. Our goal was to quantify differences in yeast communities due to management style between seven pairs of conventional and biodynamic vineyards (14 in total) throughout Oregon, USA. We wanted to answer the following questions: 1) are yeast communities distinct between biodynamic vineyards and conventional vineyards? 2) are these differences consistent across a large geographic region? 3) can differences in yeast communities be tied to differences in metabolite profiles of the bottled wine? To collect our data we took soil, bark, leaf, and grape samples from within each vineyard from five different vines of pinot noir. We also collected must and a 10º brix sample from each winery. Using these samples, we performed 18S amplicon sequencing to identify the yeast present. We then used metabolomics to characterize the organoleptic compounds present in the bottled wine from the blocks the year that we sampled. We are actively in the process of analysing our data from this study.

Aromatic maturity is a cornerstone of terroir expression in red wine

Harvesting grapes at adequate maturity is key to the production of high-quality red wines. Enologists and wine makers define several types of maturity, including technical maturity, phenolic maturity and aromatic maturity. Technical maturity and phenolic maturity are relatively well documented in the scientific literature, while articles on aromatic maturity are scarcer. This is surprising, because aromatic maturity is, without a doubt, the most important of the three in determining wine quality and typicity (including terroir expression). Optimal terroir expression can be obtained when the different types of maturity are reached at the same time, or within a short time frame. This is more likely to occur when the ripening takes place under mild temperatures, neither too cool, nor too hot. Aromatic expression in wine can be driven, from low to high maturity, by green, herbal, fresh fruit, ripe fruit, jammy fruit, candied fruit or cooked fruit aromas. Green and cooked fruit aromas are not desirable in red wines, while the levels of other aromatic compounds contribute to the typicity of the wine in relation to its origin. Wines produced in cool climates, or on cool soils in temperate climates, are likely to express herbal or fresh fruit aromas; while wines produced under warm climates, or on warm soils in temperate climates, may express ripe fruit, jammy fruit or candied fruit aromas. Growers can optimize terroir expression through their choice of grapevine variety. Early ripening varieties perform better in cool climates and late ripening varieties in warm climates. Additionally, maturity can be advanced or delayed by different canopy management practices or training systems.