Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 La vinificación de las uvas aromáticas: Moscateles y Malvasías

La vinificación de las uvas aromáticas: Moscateles y Malvasías

Abstract

Las uvas aromáticas se pueden dividir en dos clases, Moscateles y Malvasías, dependiendo del hecho de que el linalol o el geraniol, respectivamente, sean los alcoholes terpénicos monohidroxilados que predominan en el jugo de la uva. Dentro de cada clase existen numerosas subclases que se diferencian por las relaciones entre los otros alcoholes terpénicos mono y dihidroxilados, en forma libre y glicosilada. Otra diferencia entre los Moscateles y las Malvasías es la cantidad de compuestos terpénicos libres del mosto, (los terpenos del hollejo, en las dos clases, se encuentran casi en su totalidad como formas glicosiladas) que puede ser alto como en el caso del Moscatel (linalol, óxido trans piránico del linalol, 2,6-dimetil-3,7-octadien-2,6-diol) o mas bién bajo como en el caso de las Malvasías (geraniol, 2,6-dimetil-3,7-octadien-2,6-diol), mientras que en los hollejos es una característica común a las dos clases la presencia de elevadas cantidades de nerol y de geraniol en forma glicosilada. La composición terpénica de las dos variedades condiciona, además del aroma del vino final, la tecnología de producción.En Italia con el “Moscato bianco” y con las Malvasías (“Malvasia di Casorzo”, “Malvasia di Castelnuovo don Bosco”, esta última en muchos aspectos parecida a los Moscateles, “Brachetto d’Acqui”, que son todas variedades tintas) se preparan dos tipos de vino: uno espumoso y uno no espumoso. El primero se caracteriza por un contenido alcohólico de aproximadamente un 7%y una concentración de azúcares de aproximadamente 70 g/L y el segundo por un grado alcohólico del 5 % y una cantidad de azúcares variable dependiendo de los gustos del productor.En la vinificación del “Moscato bianco” se utiliza solo el mosto (una eventual criomaceración no conlleva un aumento sensible en compuestos terpénicos), que es rico de linalol que no resulta ni absorbido ni metabolizado por las levaduras, mientras que en el caso de las Malvasías tintas, para cuya vinificación se utilizan también los hollejos, el geraniol, practicamente el único alcohol terpénico monohidroxilado presente en el mosto, es metabolizado parcialmente por las levaduras y en parte reducido a citronellol y estos dos compuestos, además del nerol, son transformados en derivados acetilados. Además, a causa de las elevadas cantidades de glucosa que se encuentran en el mosto durante toda la fase de preparación de los vinos de estas variedades, los enzimas glicosidásicos, del mosto o de las levaduras, no pueden transformar en los respectivos aglicones los glicósidos del nerol y del geraniol presentes en el mosto, que quedan, por lo tanto, en forma glicosilada, es decir, no aromática, en el vino final. Las técnicas tradicionales de vinificación establecen, para la extracción del color y de los compuestos terpénicos de los hollejos de las Malvasías tintas, continuos remontados cuando la fermentación todavía no ha empezado, o una fermentación parcial en presencia de los hollejos. Estas dos técnicas son insuficientes sea para extraer la gran cantidad de glicósidos del nerol y del geraniol de los hollejos, sea para hidrolizar los glicósidos terpénicos. En este trabajo se presenta una nueva técnica de vinificación, que favorece la extracción y la hidrólisis de los compuestos terpénicos de los hollejos de las Malvasías tintas y que incrementa sensiblemente la intensidad del aroma y la calidad de los vinos que se obtienen con esta variedad.

DOI:

Publication date: February 24, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2000 

Type: Article

Authors

Rocco Di Stefano*, Emilia García Moruno* and Monica Ribaldone**

*Istituto Sperimentale per l’Enologia, via P. Micca 35 — 14100 Asti (Italia)
**Consorzio per la tutela del Brachetto

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2000

Citation

Related articles…

Better understand the soil wet bulb formation with subsurface or aerial drip irrigation in viticulture

The gradual change in rainfall patterns experienced in the south of France vineyards, especially around the Mediterranean sea, means that the vines are increasingly subject to summer drought. The winegrowers developped the use of irrigation techniques to ensure the maintenance of competitive yields in the production of wines under Protected Geographical Indication label. In practice, drip irrigation pipes can be installed above the ground or buried into the soil as well as at different distances from the vine row. The objective of this study was to examine the profiles of the wet bulbs of the soil obtained from two drip irrigation systems : aerial drip located under the vine row and subsurface drip placed in the middle of the inter-row. This experiment took place over two consecutive seasons (2020-2021) on a 3.4 ha Viognier plot in the Mediterranean region (PGI Oc, France) on sandy clay soil. The annual rainfalls were less than 400 mm. Soil water content probes were installed at different depths (20 – 40 – 60 – 80 cm) and at different lateralities from the vine row (30 – 60 – 90 – 120 cm) to control the formation of the soil wet bulb during irrigation. The mapping and the analysis of the data allowed a better understanding and differentiation of the water percolation when irrigating with subsurface or aerial drip. For the same amount of water and without differences of vine water status, it is shown that in a subsurface drip irrigation situation, the size of the wet bulb formed is larger than in aerial drip irrigation system.

Heatwaves and grapevine yield in the Douro region, crop model simulations

Heatwaves or extreme heat events can be particularly harmful to agriculture. Grapevines grown in the Douro winemaking region are particularly exposed to this threat, due to the specificities of the already warm and dry climatic conditions. Furthermore, climate change simulations point to an increase in the frequency of occurrence of these extreme heat events, therefore posing a major challenge to winegrowers in the Mediterranean type climates. The current study focuses on the application of the STICS crop model to assess the potential impacts of heatwaves in grapevine yields over the Douro valley winemaking region. For this purpose, STICS was applied to grapevines using high-resolution weather, soil and terrain datasets over the Douro. To assess the impact of heatwaves, the weather dataset (1989-2005) was artificially modified, generating periods with anomalously high temperatures (+5 ºC), at certain onset dates and with specific durations (from 5 to 9 days). The model was run with this modified weather dataset and results were compared to the original unmodified runs. The results show that heatwaves can have a very strong impact on grapevine yields, strongly depending on the onset dates and duration of the heatwaves. The highest negative impacts may result in a decrease in the yield by up to -35% in some regions. Despite some uncertainties inherent to the current modelling assessment, the present study highlights the negative impacts of heatwaves on viticultural yields in the Douro region, which is critical information for stakeholders within the winemaking sector for planning suitable adaptation measures.

Green berries on Gewürztraminer (Vitis vinifera L.) in South Tyrol (Italy)

The grape variety Gewürztraminer is known to be affected by two physiological disorders namely berry shrivel and bunch stem necrosis. During the season 2014 we noticed a new symptomatology type of ripening disorder on the variety. The new symptom showed not all berries fallowing the normal maturation stages, but single berries remaining at a soft but green stage till harvest. The broad distribution of these so called “green berries” symptoms in different production sites of our region, caused huge damage due to the difficulty of eliminating single berries per bunch before harvesting. Therefore, the Research Centre Laimburg began to investigate the reasons and origins of this new symptom. This work shows the results of first attempts to find causes for the symptom as well as the resulting approach to mitigate symptoms. Applications of magnesium leaf fertilizer showed first promising results against this putative disorder. To study the causal effect of the green berries 30 symptomatic vineyards in 2014 have been selected for a monitoring during the season 2016. To evaluate the foliar nutrient treatment two vineyards have been selected for application of magnesium sulfate and magnesium chloride. Leaf and berry nutrient analysis, as well as the main quality parameters during ripening have been performed. As soon as “green berries” symptoms appeared, incidence and severity have been evaluated. Most of the symptomatic vineyards of the 2016 monitoring showed light to clear magnesium deficit symptoms on their foliage. Only during the seasons 2020 and 2021 “green berries” symptoms could be found in the leaf fertilizer treatment vineyards. Both seasons showed a significant effect of the magnesium treatments to reduce the incidence and severity of the symptom. It seems that the appearance of the “green berries” symptom on Gewürztraminer is correlated to a disturbed uptake of magnesium of the vines.

Teasing apart terroir: the influence of management style on native yeast communities within Oregon wineries and vineyards

Newer sequencing technologies have allowed for the addition of microbes to the story of terroir. The same environmental factors that influence the phenotypic expression of a crop also shape the composition of the microbial communities found on that crop. For fermented goods, such as wine, that microbial community ultimately influences the organoleptic properties of the final product that is delivered to customers. Recent studies have begun to study the biogeography of wine-associated microbes within different growing regions, finding that communities are distinct across landscapes. Despite this new knowledge, there are still many questions about what factors drive these differences. Our goal was to quantify differences in yeast communities due to management style between seven pairs of conventional and biodynamic vineyards (14 in total) throughout Oregon, USA. We wanted to answer the following questions: 1) are yeast communities distinct between biodynamic vineyards and conventional vineyards? 2) are these differences consistent across a large geographic region? 3) can differences in yeast communities be tied to differences in metabolite profiles of the bottled wine? To collect our data we took soil, bark, leaf, and grape samples from within each vineyard from five different vines of pinot noir. We also collected must and a 10º brix sample from each winery. Using these samples, we performed 18S amplicon sequencing to identify the yeast present. We then used metabolomics to characterize the organoleptic compounds present in the bottled wine from the blocks the year that we sampled. We are actively in the process of analysing our data from this study.

δ13C : A still underused indicator in precision viticulture  

The first demonstration of the interest of carbon isotope composition of sugars in grapevine, as an integrated indicator of vineyard water status, dates back to 2000 (Gaudillère et al., 1999; Van Leeuwen et al., 2001). Thanks to the isotopic discrimination of Carbon that takes place during plant photosynthesis, under hydric stress conditions, it is possible to accurately estimate the photosynthetic activity. Ever since, δ13C has been widely applied with success to zonation, terroir studies and vine physiology research, but is still not widely used by viticulturists. This is quite astonishing by considering the impact of global warming on viticulture and the need to improve water management, that would justify a widespread use of δ13C.
The lack of private laboratories proposing the analysis, the cost of the technology, as well as the long analytical delays, have been detrimental to its development. Some laboratories tried to overcome the analytical difficulties of isotopic analysis by using fourier transformed infrared spectroscopy, as a fast and cheap alternative to the official OIV method (IRMS). These claimed FTIR models have never been published or peer reviewed and cannot be considered robust. In this work, thanks to the recent acquisition of IRMS technology, new modern and robust applications of δ13C for viticulture are proposed. This includes the use of the analysis to make parcel separations at harvesting, the possibility to increase the precision of hydric stress cartography and the potential cost reduction when compared with Scholander pressure bomb analysis.