Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 La vinificación de las uvas aromáticas: Moscateles y Malvasías

La vinificación de las uvas aromáticas: Moscateles y Malvasías

Abstract

Las uvas aromáticas se pueden dividir en dos clases, Moscateles y Malvasías, dependiendo del hecho de que el linalol o el geraniol, respectivamente, sean los alcoholes terpénicos monohidroxilados que predominan en el jugo de la uva. Dentro de cada clase existen numerosas subclases que se diferencian por las relaciones entre los otros alcoholes terpénicos mono y dihidroxilados, en forma libre y glicosilada. Otra diferencia entre los Moscateles y las Malvasías es la cantidad de compuestos terpénicos libres del mosto, (los terpenos del hollejo, en las dos clases, se encuentran casi en su totalidad como formas glicosiladas) que puede ser alto como en el caso del Moscatel (linalol, óxido trans piránico del linalol, 2,6-dimetil-3,7-octadien-2,6-diol) o mas bién bajo como en el caso de las Malvasías (geraniol, 2,6-dimetil-3,7-octadien-2,6-diol), mientras que en los hollejos es una característica común a las dos clases la presencia de elevadas cantidades de nerol y de geraniol en forma glicosilada. La composición terpénica de las dos variedades condiciona, además del aroma del vino final, la tecnología de producción.En Italia con el “Moscato bianco” y con las Malvasías (“Malvasia di Casorzo”, “Malvasia di Castelnuovo don Bosco”, esta última en muchos aspectos parecida a los Moscateles, “Brachetto d’Acqui”, que son todas variedades tintas) se preparan dos tipos de vino: uno espumoso y uno no espumoso. El primero se caracteriza por un contenido alcohólico de aproximadamente un 7%y una concentración de azúcares de aproximadamente 70 g/L y el segundo por un grado alcohólico del 5 % y una cantidad de azúcares variable dependiendo de los gustos del productor.En la vinificación del “Moscato bianco” se utiliza solo el mosto (una eventual criomaceración no conlleva un aumento sensible en compuestos terpénicos), que es rico de linalol que no resulta ni absorbido ni metabolizado por las levaduras, mientras que en el caso de las Malvasías tintas, para cuya vinificación se utilizan también los hollejos, el geraniol, practicamente el único alcohol terpénico monohidroxilado presente en el mosto, es metabolizado parcialmente por las levaduras y en parte reducido a citronellol y estos dos compuestos, además del nerol, son transformados en derivados acetilados. Además, a causa de las elevadas cantidades de glucosa que se encuentran en el mosto durante toda la fase de preparación de los vinos de estas variedades, los enzimas glicosidásicos, del mosto o de las levaduras, no pueden transformar en los respectivos aglicones los glicósidos del nerol y del geraniol presentes en el mosto, que quedan, por lo tanto, en forma glicosilada, es decir, no aromática, en el vino final. Las técnicas tradicionales de vinificación establecen, para la extracción del color y de los compuestos terpénicos de los hollejos de las Malvasías tintas, continuos remontados cuando la fermentación todavía no ha empezado, o una fermentación parcial en presencia de los hollejos. Estas dos técnicas son insuficientes sea para extraer la gran cantidad de glicósidos del nerol y del geraniol de los hollejos, sea para hidrolizar los glicósidos terpénicos. En este trabajo se presenta una nueva técnica de vinificación, que favorece la extracción y la hidrólisis de los compuestos terpénicos de los hollejos de las Malvasías tintas y que incrementa sensiblemente la intensidad del aroma y la calidad de los vinos que se obtienen con esta variedad.

DOI:

Publication date: February 24, 2022

Issue: Terroir 2000 

Type: Article

Authors

Rocco Di Stefano*, Emilia García Moruno* and Monica Ribaldone**

*Istituto Sperimentale per l’Enologia, via P. Micca 35 — 14100 Asti (Italia)
**Consorzio per la tutela del Brachetto

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2000

Citation

Related articles…

How can historical cultivars mitigate the effects of climate change?

IFV, INRAe and the national network “Partenaires de la Sélection Vigne” representing 37 organizations from the different wine regions, have been working increasingly closely over the last 2 decades towards the preservation of the French varietal patrimony. There are approximately 600 patrimonial varieties according to INRAe and SupAgro Montpellier experts, including ancient cultivars (400) and intravarietal crossbreeds obtained since the 19th century. In the context of a drastic reduction in such varieties from the mid 1980’s in favor of mainstream varieties, it was essential to carry out an inventory of old vines and vineyards. INRAe Vassal collection plays a key role here as it holds the largest diversity available, along with a rich bibliography and herbariums, offering us the opportunity to document and double check the identity of a cultivar, consolidating the expertise of ampelographers. The work is carried out in several stages, from verifying the existence of a variety in a small region, through to rehabilitation. During this session, the authors present the process that leads to the official registration of a variety. After this, IFV selection center takes over to initiate the process of selection and propagation. A specific focus within regions such as the Alps, Champagne and the South-West will provide details of the full procedure. Bia, Bouysselet, Chardonnay rose, Mecle and the aptly named Tardif, are some of the cultivars that have followed this procedure. Furthermore, a recent regulation established by INAO on “varieties of interest for adaptation purposes” might boost uptake by growers. Since 2006, 36 historical cultivars have been registered. Most of these have been neglected in the past due to late maturity, lack of sugar and high titratable acidity at harvest time. Such characteristics are today considered as positive qualities, not only in mitigation of the effects of climate change, but also as an opportunity for restoring diversity…

Impact of climate change on the viticultural climate of the Protected Designation of Origin “Jumilla” (SE Spain)

Protected Designation of Origin “Jumilla” (PDO Jumilla) is located in the Spanish provinces of Albacete and Murcia, in the South-eastern part of the Iberian Peninsula, where most of the models predict a severe impact of climate change in next decades. PDO Jumilla covers an area of 247,054 hectares, of which more than 22,000 hectares

Biodiversity in the vineyard agroecosystem: exploring systemic approaches

Biodiversity conservation and restoration are essential for guarantee the provision of ecosystem services associated to vineyard agroecosystem such as climate regulation trough carbon sequestration and control of pests and diseases. Most of published research dealing with the complexity of the vineyard agroecosystems emphasizes the necessity of innovative approaches, including the integration of information at different temporal and spatial scales and development of systemic analysis based on modelling. A biodiversity survey was conducted in the Franciacorta wine-growing area (Lombardy, Italy), one of the most important Italian wine-growing regions for sparkling wine production, considering a portion of the territory of 112 ha. The area was divided into several Environmental Units (EUs), defined as a whole vineyard or portion of vineyard homogenous in terms of four agronomic characteristics: planting year, planting density, cultivar, and training system. In each EU a set of compartments was identified and characterised by specific variables. The compartments are meteorology, morphology (altitude, slope, aspect, row orientation, and solar irradiance), ecological infrastructures and management. The landscape surrounding EU was also characterised in terms of land-use in a buffer zone of 500 m. For each component a specific methodology was identified and applied. Different statistical approaches were used to evaluate the method to integrate the information related to different compartments within the EU and related to the buffer zone. These approaches were also preliminarily evaluated for their ability to describe the contribution of biodiversity and landscape components to ecosystem services. This methodological exploration provides useful indication for the development of a fully systemic approach to structural and functional biodiversity in vineyard agroecosystems, contributing to promote a multifunctional perspective for the all wine-growing sector.

Adaptability of grapevines to climate change: characterization of phenology and sugar accumulation of 50 varieties, under hot climate conditions

Climate is the major factor influencing the dynamics of the vegetative cycle and can determine the timing of phenological periods. Knowledge of the phenology of varieties, their chronological duration, and thermal requirements, allows not only for the better management of interventions in the vineyard, but also to predict the varieties’ behaviour in a scenario of climate change, giving the wine producer the possibility of selecting the grape varieties that are best adapted to the climatic conditions of a certain terroir. In 2014, Symington Family Estates, Vinhos, established two grape variety libraries in two different places with distinctive climate conditions (Douro Superior, and Cima Corgo), with the commitment of contributing to a deeper agronomic and oenological understanding of some grape varieties, in hot climate conditions. In these research vineyards are represented local varieties that are important in the regional and national viticulture, but also others that have over time been forgotten — as well as five international reference cultivars. From 2017 to 2021, phenological observations have been made three times a week, following a defined protocol, to determine the average dates of budbreak, flowering and veraison. With the climate data of each location, the thermal requirements of each variety and the chronological duration of each phase have been calculated. During maturation, berry samples have been gathered weekly to study the dynamics of sugar accumulation, between other parameters. The data was analysed applying phenological and sugar accumulation models available in literature. The results obtained show significant differences between the varieties over several parameters, from the chronological duration and thermal requirements to complete the various stages of development, to the differences between the two locations, confirming the influence of the climate on phenology and the stages of maturation, in these specific conditions.

Influence of weather and climatic conditions on the viticultural production in Croatia

The research includes an analysis of the impact of weather conditions on phenological development of the vine and grape quality, through monitoring of four experimental cultivars (Chardonnay, Graševina, Merlot and Plavac mali) over two production years. In each experimental vineyard, which were evenly distributed throughout the regions of Slavonia and The Croatian Danube, Croatian Uplands,