Caratterizzazione delle produzioni vitivinicole dell’area del Barolo: Un’esperienza pluridisciplinare triennale (4)

In viticulture, terroir is a key concept that refers to an area and thus possesses a geographical dimension. Hence, zoning of viticultural terroir is an important issue

Non-Saccharomyces yeasts have been associated, for many years, with challenging alcoholic fermentation processes. However, during the last decade the use of non-Saccharomyces yeasts in wine production has become increasingly widespread due to the advantages they can offer in mixed inoculations with Saccharomyces cerevisiae (Sc). In this respect, Hanseniaspora vineae (Hv), in synergy with Saccharomyces spp, represents an interesting opportunity to impart a positive contribution to the aroma complexity of wines. In fact, it is a well-known producer of pleasant esters, such as 2-phenylethyl acetate. This study compares the performances of Hv (strain Hv-205) in sequential inoculation modality to Sc in three Chardonnay musts for base sparkling wine production. No significant differences were observed in basic chemical parameters between wines except for titratable acidity, with a significantly decrease (up to 1.5 g/L) in Hv processes due to malic acid degradation. The analysis of the aroma compounds revealed remarkable differences in concentration of volatile metabolites, among others up to 37-fold increase of 2-phenylethyl acetate. In contrast, lower concentration of its alcohol were detected, suggesting higher acetylation activity by Hv.

Wine terroir describes the collectively recognized relation between a geographical area and the distinctive organoleptic characteristics of the wines produced in it. The overriding objective in terroir studies is therefore to provide scientific proof relating the properties of terroir components to wine quality and typicity. In scientific circles, the role of climate (macro-, meso- and micro-) on grape and wine characteristics is well documented and accepted as the most critical. Moreover, there has been increasing interest in recent years about new elements with possible importance in shaping wine terroir like berry/leaf/soil microbiology or even aromatic plants in proximity to the vineyard conferring flavors to the grapes. However, the actual effect of these factors is also dependent on complex interactions with plant material (variety/clone, rootstock, vine age) and with human factors.
The contribution of soil, although a fundamental component of terroir and extremely popular among wine enthusiasts, remains a much-debated issue among researchers. The role of geology is probably the one mostly associated by consumers with the notion of terroir with different parent rocks considered to give birth to different wine styles. However, the relationship between wine properties and the underlying parent material raises a lot of controversy especially regarding the actual existence of rock-derived flavors in the wine (e.g. minerality). As far as the actual soil properties are concerned, the effect of soil physical properties is generally regarded as the most significant (e.g sandy soils being associated with lighter wines while those on clay with colored and tannic ones) mostly through control of water availability which ultimately modifies berry ripening conditions either directly by triggering biosynthetic pathways, or indirectly by altering vigor and yield components. The role of soil chemistry seems to be weakly associated to wine sensory characteristic, although N, K, S and Ca, but also soil pH, are often considered important in the overall soil effect.
Recently, in the light of evidence provided by precision agriculture studies reporting a high variability of vineyard soils, the spatial scale should also be taken into consideration in the evaluation of the soil effects on wines. While it is accepted that soil effects become more significant than climate on a local level, it is not clear whether these micro-variations of vineyard soils are determining in the terroir effect. Moreover, as terroir is not a set of only natural factors, the magnitude of the contribution of human-related factors (irrigation, fertilization, soil management) to the soil effect still remains ambiguous. Lastly, a major shortcoming of the majority of works about soil effects on wine characteristics is the absence of connection with actual vine physiological processes since all soil effects on grape and wine chemistry and sensorial properties are ultimately mediated through vine responses.
This article attempts to breakdown the main soil attributes involved in the terroir effect to suggest an improved understanding about soil’s true contribution to wine sensory characteristics. It is proposed that soil parameters per se are not as significant determining factors in the terroir effect but rather their mutual interactions as well as with other natural and human factors included in the terroir concept. Consequently, similarly to bioclimatic indices, composite soil indices (i.e. soil depth, water holding capacity, fertility, temperature etc), incorporating multiple soil parameters, might provide a more accurate and quantifiable means to assess the relative weight of the soil component in the terroir effect.

Flavescence dorée, a serious threat to grapevine cultivation in several European Countries, is caused by phytoplasmas in the 16Sr-V ribosomal group, classified as quarantine organisms in the EU and transmitted mainly by the insect vector Scaphoideus titanus. The disease is controlled only by indirect and preventive measures, with important economic and environmental concerns. Genetic resources from the great variety of Vitis vinifera germplasm together with application of new genomic techniques could be applied to produce resistant/tolerant plants, once the genetic bases of susceptibility are elucidated. In a current Italian project (BIORES*) we are evaluating different international and local grapevine cvs. as well as microvine plants for their response to FD transmission and multiplication in controlled conditions.

Definitions of terroir elude consistent agreement. As defined geographical space the common denominators of its conceptualization include natural and cultural elements of life