Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Analisi delle modalita’ d’interazione tra conoscenza dl un territorio e gestione dei suoi aspetti enoturistici relativamente ad una regione (Toscana)

Analisi delle modalita’ d’interazione tra conoscenza dl un territorio e gestione dei suoi aspetti enoturistici relativamente ad una regione (Toscana)

Abstract

Il Turismo negli anni 2000 si appresta ad essere la più vasta ed estesa impresa presente nel mondo. Se a cio si aggiunge il fatto che il tempo libero risulta essere, per la maggior parte delle persone, la principale aspirazione da considerare ben oltre il proprio benessere eco­nomico, ci si rende conto del perché di una crescente domanda di ecoturismo. Un viaggiare sempre più accorto aile valenze ambientali e tipiche di un territorio.
In questi anni abbiamo assistito ad un’involuzione dei processi che generano la nostra conoscenza del sapere verso habitat aventi forte connotazione agricolo-ambientale. La spin­ta ad un’accentuata distribuzione dei prodotti su mercati ed ipermercati al consumo, ha por­tato ad una serie di elementi da considerare attentamente: una crescente dissociazione del cibo e degli alimenti con il territorio di origine, una sostanziale omogeneità nel gusto e nei modelli alimentari, una forte connotazione urbana dei prodotti che avrebbero ragione e titoli per esser adeguatamente proposti e promossi nel luoghi di produzione, una perdita di rifer­imenti alla stagionalità degli stessi, percio si perde il rapporto con la sua origine geografica e la ottimale maturazione, massima esaltazione di sapori ed aromi, a fronte di una sostanziale presenza durante l’intero arco dell’anno.
La peculiarità di un territorio è nei luoghi in cui si esprime la sua originalità. In questi anni il turismo, ed in particolare l’ecoturismo, si è fortemente diversificato: dalle lunghe ed uniche “villeggiature” concentrate prevalentemente nei mesi estivi, si è passati ad una serie di week end da utilizzare in più periodo durante l’arco dell’anno ed, in taluni casi, ripetendo la breve vacanza nello stesso soggiorno fenomeno, questo, diffuso nell’ospitalità agrituristi­ca. A fronte di tale spinta, anche di tipo pubblicitaria, all’acquisizione dei prodotti in luoghi, anche distanti dagli areali di produzione, si è assistiti in questi anni ad un recupero di conoscenza e di valori di alcune di tali peculiarità nelle produzioni agro-alimentari. E’ stato incrementato ed ampliato cio, non solo nella mera acquisizione del prodotto, quanto alla riconsiderazione di un territorio più vasto.

DOI:

Publication date: March 2, 2022

Issue: Terroir 1998

Type: Article

Authors

GIOVANNI PISCOLLA

Regione Toscana, Giunta Regionale, Dipartimento dello Sviluppo Economico via di Novoli, 27 Firenze

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 1998

Citation

Related articles…

Impact of changes in pruning practices on vine growth and yield

A gradual decline in vineyards has been observed over the past twenty years worldwide. This might be explained by the climate change, practices change or the increase of dieback diseases. To increase the longevity of vines, we studied the impact of different pruning strategies in four adult and four young vineyards located in France and Spain. In France, vineyards were planted with Cabernet franc on 3309C while Spanish trials were planted with Tempranillo grafted on 110R. Vegetative expression, yield, quality of berries and wood vessels conductivity were measured. The distribution of vegetative expression, yield and berry composition between primary and secondary vegetation were quantified. Finally, tomography was used to evaluate the implication of the treatments on sap flows.
First results show that i) the respectful pruning leads to an increase of 30 to 50% more secondary shoots than the aggressive pruning in France and between 15 and 20% in Spain, ii) there is no major effect on the yield over the first two years following the implementation of the new pruning practices, although the proportion of clusters from suckers is higher on the respectful pruning method. On young vines, the development of the trunk according to a respectful pruning leads to a loss of harvest 2 years after planting. This is due to the removal, on the future trunk, of the green suckers which carrying bunches. This operation carried out in spring rather than during winter pruning, would promote a better leaf / fruit balance when the plant comes into production, and could lead to better hydraulic conduction in the vessels of the trunk. Maintaining these trials for several years will provide more robust data to assess the impact of these practices on the vines over the long term.

How can historical cultivars mitigate the effects of climate change?

IFV, INRAe and the national network “Partenaires de la Sélection Vigne” representing 37 organizations from the different wine regions, have been working increasingly closely over the last 2 decades towards the preservation of the French varietal patrimony. There are approximately 600 patrimonial varieties according to INRAe and SupAgro Montpellier experts, including ancient cultivars (400) and intravarietal crossbreeds obtained since the 19th century. In the context of a drastic reduction in such varieties from the mid 1980’s in favor of mainstream varieties, it was essential to carry out an inventory of old vines and vineyards. INRAe Vassal collection plays a key role here as it holds the largest diversity available, along with a rich bibliography and herbariums, offering us the opportunity to document and double check the identity of a cultivar, consolidating the expertise of ampelographers. The work is carried out in several stages, from verifying the existence of a variety in a small region, through to rehabilitation. During this session, the authors present the process that leads to the official registration of a variety. After this, IFV selection center takes over to initiate the process of selection and propagation. A specific focus within regions such as the Alps, Champagne and the South-West will provide details of the full procedure. Bia, Bouysselet, Chardonnay rose, Mecle and the aptly named Tardif, are some of the cultivars that have followed this procedure. Furthermore, a recent regulation established by INAO on “varieties of interest for adaptation purposes” might boost uptake by growers. Since 2006, 36 historical cultivars have been registered. Most of these have been neglected in the past due to late maturity, lack of sugar and high titratable acidity at harvest time. Such characteristics are today considered as positive qualities, not only in mitigation of the effects of climate change, but also as an opportunity for restoring diversity…

Mesoclimate impact on Tannat in the Atlantic terroir of Uruguay

The study of climate is relevant as an element conditioning the typicity of a product, its quality and sustainability over the years. The grapevine development and growth and the final grape and wine composition are closely related to temperature, while climate components vary at mesoscale according to topography and/or proximity to large bodies of water. The objective of this work is to assess the mesoclimate of the Atlantic region of Uruguay and to determine the effect of topography and the ocean on temperature and consequently on Tannat grapevine behavior.

Amino nitrogen content in grapes: the impact of crop limitation

As an essential element for grapevine development and yield, nitrogen is also involved in the winemaking process and largely affects wine composition. Grape must amino nitrogen deficiency affects the alcoholic fermentation kinetics and alters the development of wine aroma precursors. It is therefore essential to control and optimize nitrogen use efficiency by the plant to guarantee suitable grape nitrogen composition at harvest. Understanding the impact of environmental conditions and cultural practices on the plant nitrogen metabolism would allow us to better orientate our technical choices with the objective of quality and sustainability (less inputs, higher efficiency). This trial focuses on the impact of crop limitation – that is a common practice in European viticulture – on nitrogen distribution in the plant and particularly on grape nitrogen composition. A wide gradient of crop load was set up in a homogeneous plot of Chasselas (Vitis vinifera) in the experimental vineyard of Agroscope, Switzerland. Dry weight and nitrogen dynamics were monitored in the roots, trunk, canopy and grapes, during two consecutive years, using a 15N-labeling method. Grape amino nitrogen content was assessed in both years, at veraison and at harvest. The close relationship between fruits and roots in the maintenance of plant nitrogen balance was highlighted. Interestingly, grape nitrogen concentration remained unchanged regardless of crop load to the detriment of the growth and nitrogen content of the roots. Meanwhile, the size and the nitrogen concentration of the canopy were not affected. Leaf gas exchange rates were reduced in response to lower yield conditions, reducing carbon and nitrogen assimilation and increasing intrinsic water use efficiency. The must amino nitrogen profiles could be discriminated as a function of crop load. These findings demonstrate the impact of plant balance on grape nitrogen composition and contribute to the improvement of predictive models and sustainable cultural practices in perennial crops.

Impact of yeast derivatives to increase the phenolic maturity and aroma intensity of wine

Using viticultural and enological techniques to increase aromatics in white wine is a prized yet challenging technique for commercial wine producers. Equally difficult are challenges encountered in hastening phenolic maturity and thereby increasing color intensity in red wines. The ability to alter organoleptic and visual properties of wines plays a decisive role in vintages in which grapes are not able to reach full maturity, which is seen increasingly more often as a result of climate change. A new, yeast-based product on the viticultural market may give the opportunity to increase sensory properties of finished wines. Manufacturer packaging claims these yeast derivatives intensify wine aromas of white grape varieties, as well as improve phenolic ripeness of red varieties, but the effects of this application have been little researched until now. The current study applied the yeast derivative, according to the manufacture’s instructions, to the leaves of both neutral and aromatic white wine varieties, as well as on structured red wine varieties. Chemical parameters and volatile aromatics were analyzed in grape musts and finished wines, and all wines were subjected to sensory analysis by a tasting panel. Collective results of all analyses showed that the application of the yeast derivative in the vineyard showed no effect across all varieties examined, and did not intensify white wine aromatics, nor improve phenolic ripeness and color intensity in red wine.