Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Il vino nobile di Montepulciano

Il vino nobile di Montepulciano

Abstract

C’è grande attenzione al rapporto tra zonazione e marketing. Mi sembra però che ci sia anco­ra oggi un salto fra le pratiche di analisi del terreno e di deterrninazione di quello che potremo definire “cru” e quello che può essere la sua utilizzazione rispetto ai consumatori finali. Tutte queste ricerche sono utilissime per la deterrninazione di ciò che si ha in mano dal punto di vista dei produttori mentre è molto più complicato riuscire ad arrivare ad una comunicazione nei confronti dei consumatori finali perché si rischia l’infinitesimale. Perché se portassimo alle estreme conseguenze la ricerca sulla zonazione fino ad interagire con il sistema delle denominazioni d’origine noi avremmo una parcellizzazione totale e rischieremmo di non riuscire più ad adoperare le D.O.C, o comunque le dovremmo ado­perare in un modo diverso.
Dovremmo estremizzare quello che è stata la piramide della legge 903 del ’92 e comincia­re a fare una differenziazione che non sia solo in senso orizzontale ma anche verticale, cioè quali sono poi i migliori terreni in ogni singola area a denominazione d’origine. Questo tipo di analisi, che in Francia c’è già, come verrebbe accettata in una situazione come quella ital­iana dove è molto difficile fare delle distinzioni all’intemo delle denominazioni di origine?
Altro discorso è il territorio che verrebbe molto frammentato; l’unicità del territorio verrebbe persa e comunicare tutta questa articolazione diventa un bel problema. Fino a che non rius­ciamo a trovare una soluzione a questo aspetto, le ricerche sulla zonazione debbono rimanere uno strumento essenzialmente interno alle varie aziende ed è molto difficile farne un progetto di comunicazione nei confronti del consumatore. Già sono tante la zone ed è dif­ficile orientarsi.
Ad esempio fare delle sotto denominazioni del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano determinate dalla ricerca sulla zonazione, incrociate anche con altri fattori come la posizione dei vigneti e addirittura valorizzare certi suoli ed arrivare alla deterrninazione dei cloni adatti del vitig­no; la zonazione e là produzione del vino e tutta la commercializzazione vanno a fare i conti con l’enologo, colui che trasforma le uve in vino; dopo l’assaggio ci sarà da chiedersi se cor­rispondono le caratteristiche organolettiche finali a quelli che sono gli aspetti strutturali dei vari terreni. Io penso che incida molto la mano dell’enologo e questo in Toscana è una cosa evidente. Bisognerà andare anche al di là di questo se vogliamo portare queste ricerche ad essere veramente incisive rispetto al prodotto finale.
Mi sembra che queste ricerche servano più ad analizzare piuttosto che a distinguere le quali­tà finali e questo sarà un problema difficile da risolvere in un sistema delle denominazioni non ancora completato.

DOI:

Publication date: March 2, 2022

Issue: Terroir 1998

Type: Article

Authors

DANIELE CERNILLI

Curatore d lia guida dei vini del Gambero Rosso

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 1998

Citation

Related articles…

Phenological characterization of a wide range of Vitis Vinifera varieties

In order to study the impact of climate change on Bordeaux grape varieties and to assess the adaptation capacities of candidates to the grape varieties of this wine region to the new climatic conditions, an experimental block design composed of 52 grape varieties was set up in 2009 at the INRAE Bordeaux Aquitaine center. Among the many parameters studied, the three main phenological stages of the vine (budburst, flowering and veraison) have been closely monitored since 2012. Observations for each year, stage and variety were carried out on four independent replicates. Precocity indices have been calculated from the data obtained over the 2012-2021 period (Barbeau et al. 1998). This work allowed to group the phenological behaviour of the grapevine varieties, not only based on the timing of the subsequent developmental stages, but also on the overall precocity of the cycle and the total length of the cycle between budburst and veraison. Results regarding the variability observed among the different grape varieties for these phenological stages are presented as heat maps.

Short-term relationships between climate and grapevine trunk diseases in southern French vineyards

[lwp_divi_breadcrumbs home_text="IVES" use_before_icon="on" before_icon="||divi||400" module_id="publication-ariane" _builder_version="4.19.4" _module_preset="default" module_text_align="center" module_font_size="16px" text_orientation="center"...

Leaf vine content in nutrients and trace elements in La Mancha (Spain) soils: influence of the rootstock

The use of rootstock of American origin has been the classic method of fighting against Phylloxera for more than 100 years. For this reason, it is interesting to establish if different rootstock modifies nutrient composition as well as trace elements content that could be important for determining the traceability of the vine products. A survey of four classic rootstocks (110-Richter, SO4, FERCAL and 1103-Paulsen) and four new ones (M1, M2, M3 and M4) provided by Agromillora Iberia. S.L.U., all of them grafted with the Tempranillo variety, has been carried out during 2019. The eight rootstocks were planted in pots of 500 cc, on three soils with very different characteristics from Castilla-La Mancha (Spain). In the month of July, the leaves were collected and dried in a forced air oven for seven days at 40ºC. Then, the samples were prepared for the analysis determination, carried out by X-Ray fluorescence spectrometry. The results obtained showed that in the case of content in mineral elements in leaf, separated by soil type, we can report the importance of few elements such as Si, Fe, Pb and, especially, Sr. The rootstock does not influence the composition of the vine leaf for the studied elements that are the most important in determining the geochemical footprint of the soil. The influence of the soil can be discriminated according to some elements such as Fe, Pb, Si and, especially, Sr.

Influence of a spontaneous cover crop on the vineyard and soil erosion under Mediterranean climate

Sixty five % of the agricultural area of the Basque Country located in the DO Ca Rioja corresponds to vineyards. More than 40% of it has an average slope greater than 10%, which makes it sensitive to erosive processes. Furthermore, it is foreseeable that extreme weather events (storms, hail, extreme heat and cold, etc.) will be favored due to climate change. Cover cropping can mitigate this risk, and therefore the objective of this work is to evaluate the impact that a vegetable cover has on the agronomic behavior of the vineyard, the quality of the grape and soil erosion. For this, a trial has been carried out with a Graciano variety vineyard with a slope between 10% -20% during the years 2020 and 2021. Conventional tillage management in the area has been compared (4-6 passes per year of tillage machinery) versus spontaneous vegetation cover management in the vineyard. This implies not tilling and allowing the grass of the land to colonize the range between the lines of vines, controlling their height through 1-3 mowing passes per year, always trying to affect the surface of the land as little as possible. The vegetative growth, yield and quality of the grape and wine was measured. Furthermore, erosion has been measured using Gerlasch boxes. The yield was lower in the second year of the trial in the cover crop treatment, but erosion was significantly reduced.

The impact of leaf canopy management on eco-physiology, wood chemical properties and microbial communities in root, trunk and cordon of Riesling grapevines (Vitis vinifera L.)

In the last decades, climate change required already adaptation of vineyard management. Increase in temperature and unexpected weather events cause changes in all phenological stages requiring new management tools. For example, defoliation can be a useful tool to reduce the sugar content in the berries creating differences in the wine profiles. In a ten-year field experiment using Riesling (Vitis vinifera L, planted 1986, Geisenheim, Germany), various mechanical defoliation strategies and different intensities were trialed until 2016 before the vineyard was uprooted. Wood was sampled from the plant compartments root, trunk, cordon and shoot for analyses of physicochemical properties (e.g. lignin and element content, pH, diameter), nonstructural carbohydrates and the microbial communities. The aim of the study was to investigate the influence of reduced canopy leaf area on the sink-source allocation into different compartments and potential changes of the fungal and prokaryotic wood-inhabiting community using a metabarcoding approach. Severe summer pruning (SSP) of the canopy and mechanical defoliation (MDC) above the bunch zone decreased the leaf area by 50% compared to control (C). SSP reduced the photosynthetic capacity, which resulted in an altered source-sink allocation and carbohydrate storage. With lower leaf area, less carbohydrates are allocated. This for example resulted in a decreased trunk diameter. Further, it affected the composition of the grapevine wood microbiota. SSP and MDC management changed significantly the prokaryotic community composition in wood of the root samples, but had no effect in other compartments. In general, this study found strong compartment and less management effects of the microbial community composition and associated physicochemical properties. The highest microbial diversities were identified in the wood of the trunk, and several species were recorded the first time in grapevine.