Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Le Pinot noir dans la zone AOC des “Colli Orientali del Friuli” (nord-est de l’Italie) : influence de la forme de taille sur les paramètres viticoles et œnologiques du raisin et du vin

Le Pinot noir dans la zone AOC des “Colli Orientali del Friuli” (nord-est de l’Italie) : influence de la forme de taille sur les paramètres viticoles et œnologiques du raisin et du vin

Abstract

Le Pinot noir est un cépage de cuve intéressant pour les produits de grande qualité qu’il fournit dans les zones les mieux adaptées. En France, les zones de culture du Pinot noir les plus importantes sont la Bourgogne, la Champagne, l’Alsace et la Loire. En Italie, le Pinot noir est cultivé presque exclusivement dans les régions septentrionales qui sont le Trentino-Alto Adige, la Lombardie et le Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Le Pinot noir était déjà présent dans le Frioul au siècle demier comme en témoigne la Conférence œnologique d’Autriche de 1891 (3) qui a enregistré ce cépage dans la région de Gorizia et a recommandé son implantation dans des zones pas trop chaudes et sur des terrains pas trop arides (“au pied des collines et au sommet de collines fraîches, comme dans les régions de Canale et de Ronzina”, actuellement Kanal et Rocinj, en Slovénie) (3). Malgré ces recommandations, on enregistre dans les années trente une diminution constante du Pinot noir dans cette zone en raison de l’introduction d’autres cépages considérés comme plus nobles, tels que le Cabernet Franc, le Sauvignon et le Merlot (16). Ce manque d’intérêt, qui se confirme dans les décennies suivantes, est vraisemblablement dû au fait que, dans nos régions, cette cultivar est gravement pénalisée par l’influence de l’année. Ces dernières années, on a au contraire enregistré une augmentation de l’utilisation de ce cépage aussi bien dans le Frioul que dans d’autres zones de l’Italie septentrionale. En Italie, la majorité du raisin Pinot noir est vinifié en blanc pour la production de base mousseuse mais un certain pourcentage est vinifié en rouge pour l’obtention de vins de qualité. On remarque, toutefois, une méconnaissance, sur le plan viticole, du comportement de la variété et de son adaptation aux régions de culture de l’Italie nord-orientale. La présente recherche a donc pour objectif l’étude de la réponse du Pinot noir sur les collines du Frioul et la mise au point d’une technique de culture destinée à optimiser cette adaptation. Pour ce faire, le cépage a été cultivé sur des coteaux avec quatre formes différentes de taille et les raisins ainsi obtenus ont ensuite été vinifiés en rouge séparément pour chaque forme.

DOI:

Publication date: March 25, 2022

Issue: Terroir 1996

Type : Poster

Authors

E. PETERLUNGER (1), E. CELOTTI (2), G. DA DALT (2), S. STEFANELLI (1) G. GOLLINO (3), R. ZIRONI (2)

(1) Dipartimento di Produzione Vegetale e Tecnologie Agrarie, Université di Udine
Via delle Scienze 208,1-33100 UDINE, Italie
(2) Dipartimento di Scienze degli Alimenti, Université di Udine, Via Marangoni 97, I-33100 UDINE, Italie
(3) Consultant Vitivinicole

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 1996

Citation

Related articles…

Phenological characterization of a wide range of Vitis Vinifera varieties

In order to study the impact of climate change on Bordeaux grape varieties and to assess the adaptation capacities of candidates to the grape varieties of this wine region to the new climatic conditions, an experimental block design composed of 52 grape varieties was set up in 2009 at the INRAE Bordeaux Aquitaine center. Among the many parameters studied, the three main phenological stages of the vine (budburst, flowering and veraison) have been closely monitored since 2012. Observations for each year, stage and variety were carried out on four independent replicates. Precocity indices have been calculated from the data obtained over the 2012-2021 period (Barbeau et al. 1998). This work allowed to group the phenological behaviour of the grapevine varieties, not only based on the timing of the subsequent developmental stages, but also on the overall precocity of the cycle and the total length of the cycle between budburst and veraison. Results regarding the variability observed among the different grape varieties for these phenological stages are presented as heat maps.

Terroir analysis and its complexity

Terroir is not only a geographical site, but it is a more complex concept able to express the “collective knowledge of the interactions” between the environment and the vines mediated through human action and “providing distinctive characteristics” to the final product (OIV 2010). It is often treated and accepted as a “black box”, in which the relationships between wine and its origin have not been clearly explained. Nevertheless, it is well known that terroir expression is strongly dependent on the physical environment, and in particular on the interaction between soil-plant and atmosphere system, which influences the grapevine responses, grapes composition and wine quality. The Terroir studying and mapping are based on viticultural zoning procedures, obtained with different levels of know-how, at different spatial and temporal scales, empiricism and complexity in the description of involved bio-physical processes, and integrating or not the multidisciplinary nature of the terroir. The scientific understanding of the mechanisms ruling both the vineyard variability and the quality of grapes is one of the most important scientific focuses of terroir research. In fact, this know-how is crucial for supporting the analysis of climate change impacts on terroir resilience, identifying new promised lands for viticulture, and driving vineyard management toward a target oenological goal. In this contribution, an overview of the last findings in terroir studies and approaches will be shown with special attention to the terroir resilience analysis to climate change, facing the use and abuse of terroir concept and new technology able to support it and identifying the terroir zones.

Variety and climatic effects on quality scores in the Western US winegrowing regions

Wine quality is strongly linked to climate. Quality scores are often driven by climate variation across different winegrowing regions and years, but also influenced by other aspects of terroir, including variety. While recent work has looked at the relationship between quality scores and climate across many European regions, less work has examined New World winegrowing regions. Here we used scores from three major rating systems (Wine Advocate, Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator) combined with daily climate and phenology data to understand what drives variation across wine quality scores in major regions of the Western US, including regions in California, Oregon and Washington. We examined effects of variety, region, and in what phenological period climate was most predictive of quality. As in other studies, we found climate, based mainly on growing degree day (GDD) models, was generally associated with quality—with higher GDD associated with higher scores—but variety and region also had strong effects. Effects of region were generally stronger than variety. Certain varieties received the highest scores in only some areas, while other varieties (e.g., Merlot) generally scored lower across regions. Across phenological stages, GDD during budbreak was often most strongly associated with quality. Our results support other studies that warmer periods generally drive high quality wines, but highlight how much region and variety drive variation in scores outside of climate.

How can historical cultivars mitigate the effects of climate change?

IFV, INRAe and the national network “Partenaires de la Sélection Vigne” representing 37 organizations from the different wine regions, have been working increasingly closely over the last 2 decades towards the preservation of the French varietal patrimony. There are approximately 600 patrimonial varieties according to INRAe and SupAgro Montpellier experts, including ancient cultivars (400) and intravarietal crossbreeds obtained since the 19th century. In the context of a drastic reduction in such varieties from the mid 1980’s in favor of mainstream varieties, it was essential to carry out an inventory of old vines and vineyards. INRAe Vassal collection plays a key role here as it holds the largest diversity available, along with a rich bibliography and herbariums, offering us the opportunity to document and double check the identity of a cultivar, consolidating the expertise of ampelographers. The work is carried out in several stages, from verifying the existence of a variety in a small region, through to rehabilitation. During this session, the authors present the process that leads to the official registration of a variety. After this, IFV selection center takes over to initiate the process of selection and propagation. A specific focus within regions such as the Alps, Champagne and the South-West will provide details of the full procedure. Bia, Bouysselet, Chardonnay rose, Mecle and the aptly named Tardif, are some of the cultivars that have followed this procedure. Furthermore, a recent regulation established by INAO on “varieties of interest for adaptation purposes” might boost uptake by growers. Since 2006, 36 historical cultivars have been registered. Most of these have been neglected in the past due to late maturity, lack of sugar and high titratable acidity at harvest time. Such characteristics are today considered as positive qualities, not only in mitigation of the effects of climate change, but also as an opportunity for restoring diversity…

Climate, Viticulture, and Wine … my how things have changed!

The planet is warmer than at any time in our recorded past and increasing greenhouse emissions and persistence in the climate system means that continued warming is highly likely. Climate change has already altered the basic framework of growing grapes for wine production worldwide and will likely continue to do so for years to come. The wine sector can continue to play an important role in leading the agricultural sector in addressing climate change. From developing on…