Terroir 1996 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Le Pinot noir dans la zone AOC des “Colli Orientali del Friuli” (nord-est de l’Italie) : influence de la forme de taille sur les paramètres viticoles et œnologiques du raisin et du vin

Le Pinot noir dans la zone AOC des “Colli Orientali del Friuli” (nord-est de l’Italie) : influence de la forme de taille sur les paramètres viticoles et œnologiques du raisin et du vin

Abstract

Le Pinot noir est un cépage de cuve intéressant pour les produits de grande qualité qu’il fournit dans les zones les mieux adaptées. En France, les zones de culture du Pinot noir les plus importantes sont la Bourgogne, la Champagne, l’Alsace et la Loire. En Italie, le Pinot noir est cultivé presque exclusivement dans les régions septentrionales qui sont le Trentino-Alto Adige, la Lombardie et le Friuli-Venezia Giulia. Le Pinot noir était déjà présent dans le Frioul au siècle demier comme en témoigne la Conférence œnologique d’Autriche de 1891 (3) qui a enregistré ce cépage dans la région de Gorizia et a recommandé son implantation dans des zones pas trop chaudes et sur des terrains pas trop arides (“au pied des collines et au sommet de collines fraîches, comme dans les régions de Canale et de Ronzina”, actuellement Kanal et Rocinj, en Slovénie) (3). Malgré ces recommandations, on enregistre dans les années trente une diminution constante du Pinot noir dans cette zone en raison de l’introduction d’autres cépages considérés comme plus nobles, tels que le Cabernet Franc, le Sauvignon et le Merlot (16). Ce manque d’intérêt, qui se confirme dans les décennies suivantes, est vraisemblablement dû au fait que, dans nos régions, cette cultivar est gravement pénalisée par l’influence de l’année. Ces dernières années, on a au contraire enregistré une augmentation de l’utilisation de ce cépage aussi bien dans le Frioul que dans d’autres zones de l’Italie septentrionale. En Italie, la majorité du raisin Pinot noir est vinifié en blanc pour la production de base mousseuse mais un certain pourcentage est vinifié en rouge pour l’obtention de vins de qualité. On remarque, toutefois, une méconnaissance, sur le plan viticole, du comportement de la variété et de son adaptation aux régions de culture de l’Italie nord-orientale. La présente recherche a donc pour objectif l’étude de la réponse du Pinot noir sur les collines du Frioul et la mise au point d’une technique de culture destinée à optimiser cette adaptation. Pour ce faire, le cépage a été cultivé sur des coteaux avec quatre formes différentes de taille et les raisins ainsi obtenus ont ensuite été vinifiés en rouge séparément pour chaque forme.

DOI:

Publication date: March 25, 2022

Issue: Terroir 1996

Type : Poster

Authors

E. PETERLUNGER (1), E. CELOTTI (2), G. DA DALT (2), S. STEFANELLI (1) G. GOLLINO (3), R. ZIRONI (2)

(1) Dipartimento di Produzione Vegetale e Tecnologie Agrarie, Université di Udine
Via delle Scienze 208,1-33100 UDINE, Italie
(2) Dipartimento di Scienze degli Alimenti, Université di Udine, Via Marangoni 97, I-33100 UDINE, Italie
(3) Consultant Vitivinicole

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 1996

Citation

Related articles…

Exploring resilience and competitiveness of wine estates in Languedoc-Roussillon in the recent past: a multi-level perspective

The Languedoc-Roussillon wineries are facing a decline in wine yields particularly PGI yields due to many factors. Climate change is just ones, but is expected to increase in the future. There is also structurally a large heterogeneity of yield profiles among terroirs, varieties and strategies. This work investigates the link between yield, competitiveness and resilience to explore how resilient winegrowers have been in the recent past. To this end two approaches have been combined; (i) an accountancy database analysis at estate scale and (ii) municipality level competitiveness analysis. A new resilience indicator that characterizes the capacity of an estate to absorb yield variation is also defined. The FADN database between 2000 and 2018 of ex-Languedoc-Roussillon (France) and other data are used to analyse the current situation and the past evolution of competitiveness and resilience by type of estate (type of farm: PGI and/or PDO & type of commercialization: bulk and/or bottles). The net margin, which defines competitiveness, is not correlated to yield for all types but depends on the type of commercialization and the level of specialisation. The resilience indicator shows that the net margin of estates specialized in PGI is particularly sensitive to yield declines. We also show that price evolutions seem to compensate the effect of yield losses for the majority of types. Municipality scale analysis shows the links between local pedoclimate, yield, commercialization strategies and price. Overlapping a PDO with a PGI does not always increase a municipality’s PGI competitiveness. It is difficult to make links between causes and effects due to the complexity of the wine production system. Production diversification may be a solution. Resorting to the two level of analysis helps resolving the data gap that is necessary to explore the links between yield and economic performance of the wine estates in the long term.

Climate, Viticulture, and Wine … my how things have changed!

The planet is warmer than at any time in our recorded past and increasing greenhouse emissions and persistence in the climate system means that continued warming is highly likely. Climate change has already altered the basic framework of growing grapes for wine production worldwide and will likely continue to do so for years to come. The wine sector can continue to play an important role in leading the agricultural sector in addressing climate change. From developing on…

Impact of yeast derivatives to increase the phenolic maturity and aroma intensity of wine

Using viticultural and enological techniques to increase aromatics in white wine is a prized yet challenging technique for commercial wine producers. Equally difficult are challenges encountered in hastening phenolic maturity and thereby increasing color intensity in red wines. The ability to alter organoleptic and visual properties of wines plays a decisive role in vintages in which grapes are not able to reach full maturity, which is seen increasingly more often as a result of climate change. A new, yeast-based product on the viticultural market may give the opportunity to increase sensory properties of finished wines. Manufacturer packaging claims these yeast derivatives intensify wine aromas of white grape varieties, as well as improve phenolic ripeness of red varieties, but the effects of this application have been little researched until now. The current study applied the yeast derivative, according to the manufacture’s instructions, to the leaves of both neutral and aromatic white wine varieties, as well as on structured red wine varieties. Chemical parameters and volatile aromatics were analyzed in grape musts and finished wines, and all wines were subjected to sensory analysis by a tasting panel. Collective results of all analyses showed that the application of the yeast derivative in the vineyard showed no effect across all varieties examined, and did not intensify white wine aromatics, nor improve phenolic ripeness and color intensity in red wine.

Is wine terroir a valid concept under a changing climate?

The OIV[i] defines terroir as a concept referring to an area in which collective knowledge of the interactions between the physical and biological environment (soil, topography, climate, landscape characteristics and biodiversity features) and vitivinicultural practices develops, providing distinctive wine characteristics. Those are perceptible in the taste of wine, which drives consumer preference and, therefore, wine’s value in the marketplace. Geographical indications (GI) are recognized regulatory constructs formalizing and protecting the nexus between wine taste and the terroir generating it. Despite considering updates, GIs do not consider the nexus as a dynamic one and do not anticipate change, namely of climate. Being climate a fundamental feature of terroir, it strongly impacts wine characteristics, such as taste. According to IPCC[ii], many widespread, rapid and unprecedented changes of climate occurred, some being irreversible over hundreds to thousands of years. Climatic shifts and atmospheric-driven extreme events have been widely reported worldwide. Recent climatic trends are projected to strengthen in upcoming decades, whereas extremes are expected to increase in frequency and intensity, forcing wines away from GI definitions. Geographical shifts of viticultural suitability are projected, often moving into regions and countries different from current ones. Some authors propose adaptation in viticulture, winemaking and product innovation. We show evidence of climate changing wine characteristics in the Douro valley, home of 270-year-old Port GI. We discuss herein resist or adapt stances for when climate changes the nexus between terroir and wine characteristics. Using the MED-GOLD[iii] dashboard, a tool allowing for easy visual navigation of past and future climates, we demonstrate how policymakers can identify future moments, throughout the 21st century under different emission scenarios, when GI specifications will likely need updates (e.g., boundaries, varieties) to reduce climate-change impacts.

Measurement of redox potential as a new analytical winegrowing tool

Excell laboratory has initiated the development of an analytical method based on electrochemistry to evaluate the ability of wines to undergo or resist to oxidative phenomena. Electrochemistry is a powerful tool to probe reactions involving electron transfers and offers possibility of real-time measurements. In that context, the laboratory has implemented electrochemical analysis to assess oxidation state of different wine matrices but also in order to evaluate oxidative or reduced character of leaf and soil. Initially, our laboratory focused on dosage of compounds involved in responses of plant stresses and we were also interested in microbiological activity of soils. These analyses were compared with the measurement of redox potential (Eh) and pH which are two fundamental variables involved in the modulation of plant metabolism. Indeed, the variation of redox states of the plant reflects its biological activity but also its capacity to absorb nutriments. The Eh-pH conditions mainly determine metabolic processes involved in soil and leaf and our goal is to determine if this combined analytical approach will be sufficiently precise to detect biological evolutions (plant health, parasitic attack…).