Relations entre critères sensoriels et analytiques des vins et des vendanges de Cabernet franc issus de terroirs et de millésimes différents en Val de Loire. Essai de caractérisation de la typicité

Le mot “terroir” dérive du latin “terra”, mais déjà les Romains l’indiquaient comme “locus” ou”loci”, c’est-à-dire un lieu ayant le “genius”destiné à la production d’un produit d’excellente qualité.

One of the key factors of the economical development of viticulture and wine industry in specific limited areas is the exploitation of ancient, local grape varieties. Therefore, in recent years the growing interest to rediscover minor varieties, previously cultivated, has promoted many studies. With this regard, the focus of this study was the Vitis vinifera L. cultivar Moscato nero d’Acqui, nowadays found only in old vineyards in the Acqui zone (North-West Italy). In particular, the aims of this work were: i) to investigate secondary metabolites profile of the grapes, and ii) to evaluate the attitude to the production of special wines.

Grape phenolic content is an important quality factor that influences the appearance and mouthfeel of premium red wines.

Global warming is accelerating grape ripening, leading to unbalanced wines from fruit with high sugar content but poor aroma and colour development. Reducing the size of the photosynthetic apparatus after veraison has been shown to delay technological ripeness in cool climates, but methods have not been tested in areas with high irradiance and temperature where fruit exposure could have disastrous effects on berry composition. In this Cabernet-Sauvignon trial, we compared the application of an antitranspirant (pinolene), to severe canopy topping and above bunch zone leaf removal, all performed at mid-ripening, with an untouched control. We monitored the vines weekly by measuring stem water potential, gas exchange, fruit zone light exposure. We sampled berries to measure berry weight, total soluble solids, pH, titratable acidity, and the anthocyanin profile. At harvest, we assessed yield components, measured carbon isotope discrimination, rated sunburn on clusters, and produced experimental wines. We submitted harvest samples to metabolomic profiling through PFP-Q Exactive MS/MS and wines to sensory analysis. Application of the antitranspirant significantly reduced stomatal conductance and assimilation rate but did not affect the stem water potential. Inversely, leaf removal and topping increased water potential but did not affect leaf gas exchange. The late topping was the only treatment able to decrease sugar content (up to 2Bx), increase titratable acidity and pH, and improve anthocyanin content because of lower degradation of di-hydroxylated forms. Late leaf removal above the bunch zone increased lightning conditions in the canopy and produced the most significant damage on fruits. Yield components were not affected. This work suggests that late-season canopy management can effectively control ripening speeds and improve grapes and wines. Still, the effect on grape exposure in a critical time must be well balanced to avoid problems with the appropriate technique.

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