Recherche de relations entre terroir et caractéristiques sensorielles des eaux-de-vie de Cognac

Questo simposio organizzato dall ‘Associazione nazionale Città del Vino, che mi onoro di presiedere, è per me motivo di particolare soddisfazione perché porta a compimento parte di un percorso iniziato dall’associazione da alcuni anni e che ha un obiettivo apparentemente semplice: sollecitare gli amministratori delle Città del Vino a perseguire con tenacia, tal­volta anche con la necessaria caparbietà, programmi ed interventi che abbiano al centro, sempre, la qualità della vita dei loro territori.

Ten years have passed since the enactment and implementation of law no. 26,870 “national drink wine” in Argentina, a pioneering legislation worldwide that seeks to disseminate the cultural characteristics inherent in the production, elaboration, and consumption of wine, as well as its deep-rooted traditions.

In the Cognac region in France, Ugni blanc is the most planted grape variety (98% of the 80 500 ha). This vine region is in expansion due to the success of the associated well-known brandy and the need of high grape yield to guarrantee the production of base wine for distillation. About 2 to 3000 ha are newly planted each year and rootstocks are one powerfull tool for vineyard adaptation to soil or climate change. As rootstocks ensure water and mineral nutrient supplies to the scion, it is important to better understand their effect on berry compostionnal parameters such as sugars and nitrogen compounds, which are the main precursors for fermentary aroma metabolites, the latter being quality markers for Cognac after distillation.

In recent years, there has been an increase in demand for non-alcoholic wine with an ethanol content of less than 0.5% v/v. The dealcoholization process can take place by various methods, such as vacuum distillation or membrane technologies like osmotic distillation. Compared to distillation, membrane systems often require multiple passes or a combination of multiple separation methods. Complete or almost complete removal of ethanol significantly changes the sensory characteristics of wine.

Foreseeing climatic changes, the abnormally hot and dry year of 2005 can be revealer of some varieties behavior in different climatic conditions.