terclim by ICS banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Climate ethnography and wine environmental futures

Climate ethnography and wine environmental futures

Abstract

Globalisation and climate change have radically transformed world wine production upsetting the established order of wine ecologies. Ecological risks and the future of traditional agricultural systems are widely debated in anthropology, but very little is understood of the particular challenges posed by climate change to viticulture which is seen by many as the canary in the coalmine of global agriculture. Moreover, wine as a globalised embedded commodity provides a particularly telling example for the study of climate change having already attracted early scientific attention. Studies of climate change in viticulture have focused primarily on the production of systematic models of adaptation and vulnerability, while the human and cultural factors, which are key to adaptation and sustainable futures, are largely missing. Climate experts have been unanimous in recognising the urgent need for a better understanding of the complex dynamics that shape how climate change is experienced and responded to by human systems. Yet this call has not yet been addressed. Climate ethnography, coined by the anthropologist Susan Crate (2011), aims to bridge this growing disjuncture between climate science and everyday life through the exploration of the social meaning of climate change. It seeks to investigate the confrontation of its social salience in different locations and under different environmental guises (Goodman 2018: 340). By understanding how wine producers make sense of the world (and the environment) and act in it, it proposes to focus on the co-production of interdisciplinary knowledge by identifying and foreshadowing problems (Goodman 2018: 342; Goodman & Marshall 2018). It seeks to offer an original, transformative and contrasted perspective to climate change scenarios by investigating human agency -individual or collective- in all its social, political and cultural diversity. An anthropological approach founded on detailed ethnographies of wine production is ideally placed to address economic, social and cultural disruptions caused by the emergence of these new environmental challenges. Indeed, the community of experts in environmental change have recently called for research that will encompass the human dimension and for more broad-based, integrated through interdisciplinarity, useful knowledge (Castree & al 2014). My paper seeks to engage with climate ethnography and discuss what it brings to the study of wine environmental futures while exploring the limitations of the anthropological environmental approach.

DOI:

Publication date: May 31, 2022

Issue: Terclim 2022

Type: Article

Authors

Marion Demossier

Faculty of Arts and Humanities, University of Southampton, Southampton, United Kingdom

Contact the author

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terclim 2022

Citation

Related articles…

Does the location of wine cellars have significant impact on the evolution of madeira wine polyphenols?

Unlike table wines, Madeira Wine (MW,17-22% ABV) benefits from a long aging period under thermo-oxidative aging conditions, during which it gains its unique and complex flavour. A broad study is ongoing and aims to assess if the differences in the storage conditions impact significantly the evolution of MWs during canteiro aging. Considering that polyphenols have a significant role in the wine aging, we intended to appraise if there are significant differences in the evolution trends of polyphenols of MWs aging in different cellars under canteiro. Different MWs were aged into brand-new oak casks in two different wine cellars, one in Funchal (B) and other in Caniçal (Z). Temperature and humidity data were sensor recorded. RP-HPLC-DAD was used to perform the identification and quantification of polyphenols [1]. CIELab parameters were also assessed, using an UV-Vis spectrophotometer.

The temperature‐based grapevine sugar ripeness (GSR) model for adapting a wide range of Vitis vinifera L. cultivars in a changing climate

 Temperatures are increasing due to climate change leading to advances in grapevine phenology and sugar accumulation in grape berries.

EFFECTS OF INDUCED SUNBURN DAMAGES ON WHITE WINE PROPERTIES

Climate change is a great challenge for the environment and affects the wine industry as well. Sunburn damage of sensitive grapes increase with severe heat periods. Besides significant loss of yield sunburn, modifies sensory properties of the wines and may cause climate-related off-flavours. To initiate sunburn in a controlled way, in 2021 sunburn was directly induced in the vineyard with the GrapeBurner device, exposing grapes of the varieties Riesling and Pinot Blanc with UV and IR radiation. This device was first assembled by Kai Müller of the university in Geisenheim and consists of a carriage with 6 UV/IR lamps. A 15 min irradiation was applied in early September at 60°Oe. Due to the colder season in 2021 the grapes were not harmed by previous sunburn damage.

An intra-block study of bunch zone air temperature and its impact on berry and wine attributes

Temperature is a key environmental factor affecting grape primary and secondary metabolites. Even if several mesoscale studies have already been conducted on temperature
especially within a Protected Designation of Origin area, few data are available at an intra-block scale. The present study aimed at i) assessing the variability in bunch zone air temperature within a single vineyard block and the temporal stability of temperature spatial patterns, ii) understanding temperature drivers and
iii) identifying the impact of temperature on grape berry attributes.

Residual copper quantification on grapevine’s organs

Copper is listed among the active substances candidates for substitution (Regulation EU 2015/408). Yet still, because of the lack of valid alternatives, the European Commission recently confirmed its usage authorization by limiting the maximum amount to 28 Kg per hectare in 7 years, i.e. an average of 4 kg/year (Reg. EU 2018/1981).This restriction is due to copper accumulation in soils and surface waters both caused by a steady application, especially on perennial crops (Riepert et al., 2013). The aim of this work is to determine if treatments with reduced copper dosages are able to reach different grapevine’s organs, with particular focus on the core of bunches, and if these small amounts can ensure the respect of the legislative prescription, without compromising the phytosanitary conditions of the vineyards, thus grape yields.