Extreme canopy management for vineyard adaptation to climate change: is it a good idea?

The Valpolicella area (Veneto Region, Italy) is famous for its high quality wines: Amarone and Recioto, both obtained from partial post-harvest dehydrated red grapes.

The online monitoring of fermentative aromas provides a better understanding of the effect of temperature on the synthesis and the loss of these molecules. During fermentation, gas and liquid phase concentrations as well as losses and total productions of volatile compounds can be followed with an unprecedented acquisition frequency of about one measurement per hour. Access to instantaneous production rates and total production balances for the various volatile compounds makes it possible to distinguish the impact of temperature on yeast production (biological effect) from the loss of aromatic molecules due to a physical effect³.

Context and purpose of the study. Croatia has rich grapevine genetic resources with more than 130 native varieties preserved.

The objective of the present work is to assess yeast effects on the development of wine varietal aroma throughout aging and on wine longevity.

Three independent experiments were carried out; two fermenting semi-synthetic musts fortified with polyphenols and aroma precursors extracted from Tempranillo (1) or Albariño (2) grapes and with synthetic precursors of polyfunctional mercaptans (PFMs), and a third in which a must, mixture of 6 different grape varieties was used. In all cases, fermentations were carried out by different Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains and one S. kudriavzevii, and the obtained wines were further submitted to anoxic accelerated aging to reproduce bottle aging. The volatile profile of the wines was analyzed using several chromatographic procedures, in order to provide a comprehensive evaluation of wine aroma. Aroma compounds analyzed included fermentation volatile metabolites, grape-derived aroma compounds including PFMs, and Strecker aldehydes (SA).

Results revealed that the effects of yeast on wine aroma throughout its self-life extend along three main axes:

1. A direct or indirect action on primary varietal aroma and on its evolution during wine
aging.

2. The direct production of SA during fermentation and/or their delayed formation by producing the required reagents (amino acids + dicarbonyls) for Strecker degradation
during anoxic aging.

3. Producing acids (leucidic, branched acids) precursors to fruity esters. More specifically, and leaving aside the infrequent de novo formation, the action of the different strains of yeast on primary varietal aroma takes four different forms:

1.- Speeding the hydrolysis of aroma precursors, which leads to early aroma formation without changing the amount of aroma formed. In the case of labile molecules, such as linalool, the enhancement of young wine aroma implies a short-living wine. 2.- Metabolizing the aroma precursor, reducing the amounts of aroma formed, which can be of advantage for negative aroma compounds, such as TDN or guaiacol; 3.- Transforming grape components into aroma precursors, increasing the amounts of aroma formed, as for ethyl cinnamate, leucidic acid or vinylphenols; 4.- Forming reactive species such as vinylphenols able to destroy varietal polyfunctional mercaptans.

Overall, it can be concluded that the yeast carrying alcoholic fermentation not only influences fermentative wine aroma but also affects to the wine varietal aroma, to its evolution during aging and to the development of oxidative off-odors

The effects of anthropogenic activities on vineyard (different plant protections) and in winery
(pressing/clarification step, addition of sulfur dioxide) on fungal populations from grape to wine were studied. The studied anthropogenic activities modify the fungal diversity. Thus, lower biodiversity of grapes from organic modality was measured for the three vintages considered compared to biodiversity from ecophyto modality and conventional modality. The pressing / clarification steps strongly modify fungal populations and the influence of the winery flora is highlighted.