Aromatic profile of Savatiano Greek Grape Variety as affected by various terroirs in the PGI zone of Attica.

Questo simposio organizzato dall ‘Associazione nazionale Città del Vino, che mi onoro di presiedere, è per me motivo di particolare soddisfazione perché porta a compimento parte di un percorso iniziato dall’associazione da alcuni anni e che ha un obiettivo apparentemente semplice: sollecitare gli amministratori delle Città del Vino a perseguire con tenacia, tal­volta anche con la necessaria caparbietà, programmi ed interventi che abbiano al centro, sempre, la qualità della vita dei loro territori.

From the effect of global climate change, wildfire occurrence during grape ripening has increased. These wildfires produce smoke that can carry organic compounds to a vineyard. These smoke compounds are adsorbed in the grape berry and result in wines with elevated levels of smoke-related phenols. These wines are described as having a smokey, burnt, and dirty aroma (Kristic et al, 2015). Not only are volatile phenols carried by smoke, but additionally glycoconjugate forms of these phenols are present as will. These have been found to have a large impact on the flavor of wines, being the cause of a lasting ashy aftertaste post consumption (Parker et al, 2012). When evaluating the sensory profile of these wines when tasted one after the other, there is an observed problem due to the lasting nature of these undesirable attributes and high level of carry-over from sample to sample. The aim of this work is to evaluate the extent this carryover occurs, along with the best sensory practices to mitigate its influence via different inter-stimulus rinse protocols.

The phenolic profiles of little known red grape cultivars, namely Garnacho, Moribel and Tinto Fragoso, which are autochthonous from the Spanish region of La Mancha (ca. 600,000 ha of vineyards) have been studied over the consecutive seasons of years 2013 and 2014. The study was separately performed over the skins, the pulp and the seeds, and comprised the following phenolic types: anthocyanins, flavonols, hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (HCADs), total proanthocyanidins (PAs) and their structural features. The selected grape cultivars belong to the Vine Germplasm Bank created in this region in order to preserve the great diversity of genotypes grown in La Mancha.

With climate change, it is progressively more often to obtain grapes with an acceptable content in sugars or acids but with immature tannins described as green, aggressive or hard (noted as GAH onwards). During winemaking, the oenologist has to make decisions related to the elaboration of such grapes based mainly on empirical experience, given the lack of objective criteria to this concern. An increase in the chemical and sensory knowledge of immature tannins would allow managing this GAH character of grapes with the maximum possible efficiency during winemaking processes. The present work aims at isolating and identifying the group of compounds responsible for the GAH character present in wines.

Climate is the major factor influencing the dynamics of the vegetative cycle and can determine the timing of phenological periods. Knowledge of the phenology of varieties, their chronological duration, and thermal requirements, allows not only for the better management of interventions in the vineyard, but also to predict the varieties’ behaviour in a scenario of climate change, giving the wine producer the possibility of selecting the grape varieties that are best adapted to the climatic conditions of a certain terroir. In 2014, Symington Family Estates, Vinhos, established two grape variety libraries in two different places with distinctive climate conditions (Douro Superior, and Cima Corgo), with the commitment of contributing to a deeper agronomic and oenological understanding of some grape varieties, in hot climate conditions. In these research vineyards are represented local varieties that are important in the regional and national viticulture, but also others that have over time been forgotten — as well as five international reference cultivars. From 2017 to 2021, phenological observations have been made three times a week, following a defined protocol, to determine the average dates of budbreak, flowering and veraison. With the climate data of each location, the thermal requirements of each variety and the chronological duration of each phase have been calculated. During maturation, berry samples have been gathered weekly to study the dynamics of sugar accumulation, between other parameters. The data was analysed applying phenological and sugar accumulation models available in literature. The results obtained show significant differences between the varieties over several parameters, from the chronological duration and thermal requirements to complete the various stages of development, to the differences between the two locations, confirming the influence of the climate on phenology and the stages of maturation, in these specific conditions.