Which heat test can realistically estimate white wine haze risk?

French viticulture is currently facing major challenges as it enters the new century: climate change, the need to reduce inputs, societal issues, changing consumer habits, labor shortages …. Vinopôle bordeaux-aquitaine, to which the teams from the chambre d’agriculture de la gironde belong, supports winegrowers of the gironde and bergerac-duras regions in the gradual evolution of their practices.

Ellagitannins (ETs) have been reported to be the main phenolic compounds found in oak wood. These compounds, belonging to the hydrolysable tannin class of polyphenols, are esters of hexahydroxydiphenic acid (HHDP) and a polyol, usually glucose or quinic acid. They own their name to their capacity to be hydrolysed and liberate ellagic acid and they have an impact on astringency and bitterness sensation, which is strongly dependant on their structure. The toasting phase is particularly crucial in barrels fabrication and influences wood composition.

Smoke impact is an ongoing and growing issue for vintners across the globe, with the west coast of the U.S. and Australia being two of the largest wine industries impacted. Wine has shown to be especially sensitive to smoke exposure, often acquiring off-flavor sensory characteristics, such as “burnt rubber”, “ashy”, or other medicinal off-flavors.1 While several studies have examined the chemical composition of smoke influences on wine, some studies disagree on what compounds are having the largest impact on smell and flavor.2 This study is designed as a bottom-up approach to inventory the chemical compounds derived from smoke from a grassland-like fire that are potentially influencing wine chemical composition.

In 1979 an enlightened and farsighted business owner in an area and in an activity unknown to him and in 120 hectares of land cultivated with corn and wheat expressed to one of us that he wanted to start a business in the wine sector. The first innovative “Vigna Dogarina Scientific Applicative Project” has become famous and harmoniously inserted in and with the “Territoir” of eastern Veneto in northeastern Italy. The revolutionary project allowed one of us: 1. to put into practice results of research related to the applied philosophy, vision, methodology of the “Great MetaEthic Chain 4.1C®” algorithm of the “Conegliano Campus 5.1C®” that considers all material, immaterial, spiritual, technical, economic, environmental, social, existential, relational, ethical, MetaEthical factors with basic indexing in a harmonious chain “ 4.1C®” and application “5.1C®”, 2. to implement:

The OIV[i] defines terroir as a concept referring to an area in which collective knowledge of the interactions between the physical and biological environment (soil, topography, climate, landscape characteristics and biodiversity features) and vitivinicultural practices develops, providing distinctive wine characteristics. Those are perceptible in the taste of wine, which drives consumer preference and, therefore, wine’s value in the marketplace. Geographical indications (GI) are recognized regulatory constructs formalizing and protecting the nexus between wine taste and the terroir generating it. Despite considering updates, GIs do not consider the nexus as a dynamic one and do not anticipate change, namely of climate. Being climate a fundamental feature of terroir, it strongly impacts wine characteristics, such as taste. According to IPCC[ii], many widespread, rapid and unprecedented changes of climate occurred, some being irreversible over hundreds to thousands of years. Climatic shifts and atmospheric-driven extreme events have been widely reported worldwide. Recent climatic trends are projected to strengthen in upcoming decades, whereas extremes are expected to increase in frequency and intensity, forcing wines away from GI definitions. Geographical shifts of viticultural suitability are projected, often moving into regions and countries different from current ones. Some authors propose adaptation in viticulture, winemaking and product innovation. We show evidence of climate changing wine characteristics in the Douro valley, home of 270-year-old Port GI. We discuss herein resist or adapt stances for when climate changes the nexus between terroir and wine characteristics. Using the MED-GOLD[iii] dashboard, a tool allowing for easy visual navigation of past and future climates, we demonstrate how policymakers can identify future moments, throughout the 21st century under different emission scenarios, when GI specifications will likely need updates (e.g., boundaries, varieties) to reduce climate-change impacts.