Influence of viticulture on the temporary evolution of the landscape: the case of the AO Ribera del Duero (Central Spain)

Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG is a special dry red wine produced from partially dehydrated Nebbiolo wine-grapes growing in the Rhaetian Alps valley of Valtellina (Lombardy, Italy). Valtellina terraced vineyards are located at an altitude of 350–800 m according to ‘heroic’ viticulture on steep slopes. The harvested grape bunches are naturally dehydrated indoors, where a slow and continuous withering occurs (about 20% w/w of weight loss), until at least 1st December when the grapes reach the desired sugar content and can be processed following a normal winemaking with maceration.

The geology of a region is deemed to be an important component of terroir, as it influences the shape of the landscape and the climate of vineyard. The nature of rock and the geomorphological history of a terroir affect soil physical and chemical composition through a dynamic interplay with the changes of climate, vegetation and other living organisms, as well as with man activities.

The cultivated area of table grapes worldwide has experienced a paramount increase over the last two decades. In this current scenario, traditional varieties are being replaced by new cultivars that prioritize a profitable and sustainable agriculture, while satisfying consumer demands. It is widely recognized that wine varieties, especially those with red berry flesh, are renowned for their high antioxidant capacity and phenolic compounds, which promote health. Recently, this topic has also gained significance in table grape breeding programs.

At a time when the world’s winegrowing industry is having to adapt to a number of challenges, winegrowers are wondering about the consequent changes they will have to make (grape varieties, changes in vineyard and cellar techniques). For winegrowers and consumers alike, there is also the question of how these changes will affect the taste of their wines. This research, based on the study of numerous sources and archives from the 20th century, some of which have never been published before, aims to show that, in the recent past, the winegrowing world has shown incredible resilience in the face of crises, and that the taste and perception of fine wines has changed considerably in 100 years.

During Champagne or sparkling wine tasting, gas-phase CO2 and volatile organic compounds invade the headspace above glasses [1], thus progressively modifying the chemical space perceived by the consumer. Gas-phase CO2 in excess can even cause a very unpleasant tingling sensation perturbing both ortho- and retronasal olfactory perception [2]. Monitoring as accurately as possible the level of gas-phase CO2 above glasses is therefore a challenge of importance aimed at better understanding the close relationship between the release of CO2 and a collection of various tasting parameters.