ASSESSMENT OF ‘DOLCETTO’ GRAPES AND WINES FROM DIFFERENT AREAS OF OVADA DOCG

This paper focuses on how taste in wine (and other foods) changes and the implications of this process
for producers and merchants.
It draws primarily on the changing taste of and taste for champagne in Britain in the 19th century. Between 1850 and 1880 champagne went from a dosage level of around 20% (20 grams sugar / litre) to 0%. Champagne became the ‘dinner wine of the elite – drunk with roast meat and savoury dishes.
Contemporaries accepted that while most people could distinguish the taste of good champagne from that of bad, very few could distinguish very good from good.

Climate change is a great challenge for the environment and affects the wine industry as well. Sunburn damage of sensitive grapes increase with severe heat periods. Besides significant loss of yield sunburn, modifies sensory properties of the wines and may cause climate-related off-flavours. To initiate sunburn in a controlled way, in 2021 sunburn was directly induced in the vineyard with the GrapeBurner device, exposing grapes of the varieties Riesling and Pinot Blanc with UV and IR radiation. This device was first assembled by Kai Müller of the university in Geisenheim and consists of a carriage with 6 UV/IR lamps. A 15 min irradiation was applied in early September at 60°Oe. Due to the colder season in 2021 the grapes were not harmed by previous sunburn damage.

Powdery mildew, caused by Erysiphe necator, is a widespread disease that causes high economical losses in viticulture. The main strategy to control the disease is the recurrent application of sulphur based phytochemical compounds. However, in order to reduce their accumulation in the environment and promote the sustainability of the sector, the European Commission has applied restrictions to the number of pesticide treatments and the maximum quantity of fungicides to be applied in viticulture. Seaweeds, in particular macroalgae, are marine resources rich in sulphated polysaccharides with bio-protective potential for the plant, representing an environmentally-friendly alternative approach for sustainable wine production.

Climate change has brought several impacts that are becoming increasingly intense during the last few years and put at risk the quality of the berries or even the plant’s sustainability. Such extreme climatic events impact the composition of the wine while modulating its quality and the consumer preferences (Tempère et al., 2019). The three most important changes that take place in the must are: 1) decrease acidity, 2) increase of the concentration of sugar, hence increase of alcohol in the wine, and 3) modification
of the sensory balance and the development for example of cooked fruit aromas.

Malolactic fermentation (MLF)¹, the decarboxylation of L-malic acid into L-lactic acid, is performed by lactic acid bacteria (LAB). MLF has a deacidifying effect that may compromise freshness or microbiological stability in wines² and can be inhibited by fumaric acid [E297] (FA). In wine, can be added at a maximum allowable dose of 0.6 g/L³. Its inhibition with FA is being studied as an alternative strategy to minimize added doses of SO₂⁴. In addition, wine yeasts are capable of metabolizing and storing small amounts of FA and during alcoholic fermentation (AF).