Exploring multisensory interactions through the study of astringency diversity of mono-varietal Italian red wines

The chemical composition of grape berries at harvest is one of the most important factors that should be considered to produce high quality wines. Among the different chemical classes which characterize the grape juice, the polyphenolic compound, such as flavonoids, contribute to the final taste and color of wines. Recently, an innovative non-destructive method, based on chlorophyll fluorescence, was developed to estimate the phenolic maturity of red grape varieties through the evaluation of anthocyanins accumulated in the berry skin. To date, only few data are available about the application of this method on white grape varieties.

At CREA – Centro di Ricerca di Viticoltura ed Enologia, based in Velletri (RM), an experimental vineyard including 10 downy mildew resistent/tolerant grape varieties and two susceptible varieties was set up with the principal goal to evaluate the behavoir of these varieties in term of resistance to downy mildew (Plasmopara viticola). This evaluation, together to oenological studies, are necessary to register them also in Regional Register (in Lazio region). Monitoring of behavior towards Plasmopara viticulture of resistant vines were done in 2020 and 2021 at different times (phenological stages) and until harvesting, according to an international standard code BBCH a centesimal phenological scale, based on coding system.

During the 1985 harvest, I was able to notice in the taste perception a break in the harmony of the wine during even partial blends of grapes from different plots. At the same time, I noted a good reaction from customers for greater product customization. As a result, I was led to seek the objective limits of the terroir of a cuvée and by a constant and permanent refinement of the parameters specific to each of the terroirs.

STICS est un modèle de culture développé à l’INRA (France) depuis 1996. Il simule les bilans de carbone, d’eau et d’azote dans le système culture-sol, piloté par des données climatiques journaliéres. Il calcule à la fois des variables agricoles (rendement en quantité et qualité) et environnementales (pertes en eau et en azote). Une des originalités de STICS est son adaptabilité à de nombreuses cultures (herbacées, ligneuses, annuelles, pérennes) rendue possible par le choix de paramètres génériques et d’options de formalismes. Le travail présenté traite, dans un premier temps, des spécificités de STICS pour la vigne en terme de bilan trophique, de fonctionnement énergétique et hydrique et d’estimation des teneurs en sucre en en eau du raisin. Nous montrons ensuite diverses sorties du modèle qui permettent de caractériser des terroirs du vignoble des Côtes du Rhône.

In the global economic context, an Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée must now more than ever control the typicity and originality of the wines it produces. It is in this spirit that the Côtes du Rhône have decided to acquire the means necessary for this control.