Novel contribution to the study of mouth-feel properties in wines

Bases on oxoluminescence, we have developed an innovative device for measuring dissolved oxygen in wines in barrels without opening the bung. This system is directly inserted into the wood during the barrel elaboration and can be positioned at different locations of the barrel (the head, the hull …). During two successive vintages we have used this device notably to follow the oxygen dissolved of whites wines elaborated in barrels. This allowed us initially to monitor the oxygen levels of the harvest to bottling the whole elaboration process in barrels of white wines without using techniques of measurement suitable to modify the real values in wines (opening the bung to plunge an oximeter).

Must clarification is an important step occurring just after grape extraction in the elaboration of white wine, consisting in a solid-liquid separation. Traditionally, low must turbidity, around 50-150 NTU, is generally reached in white winemaking in order to prevent reductive aromas and facilitating alcoholic fermentation. Alternatively, a higher turbidity (300 NTU or above) can be sought for reasons such as a better expression of grapes identity (terroir), or for getting a must matrix that could supposedly lead to wines having greater ageing potential.

The aromas found in young Bordeaux red wines made with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon suggest a complex mixture of aromas of fresh red fruits such as cherry or blackberry for Merlot, and strawberry or blackcurrant for Cabernet Sauvignon. The aromas of these wines are closely linked with the maturity of the grapes. The climate change that has occurred during the last decade in Bordeaux has induced changes in the ripening conditions of grape berries. It is now widely admitted that over-ripening of the berries during hot and dry summers results in the development of characteristic flavors reminiscent of cooked fruits (fig, prune). The presence of these overriding odors found in both musts and young wines affects the quality and subtlety of the wine flavor and may shorten its shelf life.

A misconception lingers in the minds of some wine consumers that Champagne wines don’t age. It’s largely a myth, certainly as far as the best cuvees are concerned. Actually, during the so-called autolysis period of time (in the closed bottle, after the “prise de mousse”), complex chemical reactions take place when the wine remains in contact with the dead yeast cells, which progressively bring complex and very much sought-after aromas to champagne. Nevertheless, despite their remarkable impermeability to liquid and air, caps or natural cork stoppers used to cork the bottles are not 100% hermetic with regard to gas transfers. Gas species therefore very slowly diffuse through the cap or cork stopper, along their respective inverse partial pressure. After the “prise de mousse”, because the partial pressure of CO2 in the bottleneck reaches up to 6 bars (at 12 °C), gaseous CO2 progressively diffuse from the bottle to the ambient air
(where the partial pressure of gaseous CO2 is only of order of 0,0004 bar).

The present study was performed in a traditional winery located in the viticultural area of Brunello di Montalcino, Siena, Italy, in the vintage 2015. Actually, in this winery Sangiovese grape musts are fermented in large oak barrels by a single strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae previously isolated in the same winery. Pumping over operations are carried out once or twice a day until the end of alcoholic fermentations. The aim of this work was to investigate on the oenological properties of Sangiovese wine produced with the traditional winemaking process adopted by the winery under study obtained from the fermentation of whole berries compared to that from crushed grape must. In particular, two lots of 65q of Sangiovese grapes from the same 3ha vineyard were vinified in 150hL oak barrels.