Macrowine 2021
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 On the losses of dissolved CO2 during champagne aging

On the losses of dissolved CO2 during champagne aging

Abstract

A misconception lingers in the minds of some wine consumers that Champagne wines don’t age. It’s largely a myth, certainly as far as the best cuvees are concerned. Actually, during the so-called autolysis period of time (in the closed bottle, after the “prise de mousse”), complex chemical reactions take place when the wine remains in contact with the dead yeast cells, which progressively bring complex and very much sought-after aromas to champagne. Nevertheless, despite their remarkable impermeability to liquid and air, caps or natural cork stoppers used to cork the bottles are not 100% hermetic with regard to gas transfers. Gas species therefore very slowly diffuse through the cap or cork stopper, along their respective inverse partial pressure. After the “prise de mousse”, because the partial pressure of CO2 in the bottleneck reaches up to 6 bars (at 12 °C), gaseous CO2 progressively diffuse from the bottle to the ambient air (where the partial pressure of gaseous CO2 is only of order of 0,0004 bar). Moreover, because gaseous and dissolved CO2 experience thermodynamic equilibrium in the closed bottle (through the so-called Henry’s law), the level of dissolved CO2 also inevitably decreases as time proceeds during aging on lees. Actually, in champagne tasting, the level of dissolved CO2 is indeed a parameter of paramount importance since it is responsible for the bubbling process (the so-called effervescence). Keeping the dissolved CO2 as long as possible inside the bottle during aging is therefore a challenge of importance for Champagne wine elaborators, especially for old vintages collections likely to age on lees for long periods of time. Here, measurements of dissolved CO2 concentrations were done in a collection of various vintages (from a prestige cuvee provided by our partner), initially holding the same level of CO2 after the “prise de mousse” (classically close to 11.5 g/L), but having experienced different periods of aging on lees (ranging from several months up to 35 years). Progressive losses of dissolved CO2 concentrations were evidenced, depending on the period of time spent in contact with lees. Our results were compared with a previous set of experimental data, and with a multi-parameter model recently developed which provides the level of dissolved CO2 in wine as a function of time. It is worth noting that both the diameter of the bottleneck, and the bottle volume, were found to be key parameters as concerns the losses of dissolved CO2 during champagne aging. Equipe Effervescence (GSMA), Université de Reims, France Laboratoire de Recherches, Champagne Moët & Chandon, Epernay, France

Publication date: May 17, 2024

Issue: Macrowine 2016

Type: Poster

Authors

Gérard Liger-Belair*

*Equipe Effervescence (GSMA)

Contact the author

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Macrowine | Macrowine 2016

Citation

Related articles…

Analysis of voltammetric fingerprints of different white grape musts reveals genotype-related oxidation patterns

Must oxidation is a complex process involving multiple enzymatic transformations, including the oxidation of phenolics containing an ortho-diphenol function. The latter process has a primary influence on wine aroma characteristics and stability, due to the central role of ortho-diphenols in the non-enzymatic oxidative reactions taking place during winemaking and in finished wine. Although oxidation of must is traditionally avoided, in recent years its contribution to wine quality has been revisited, and in some cases improvements to wine aroma have been observed with the application of controlled must oxidation. Nowadays there is a great interest in the wine industry towards the identification of specific markers or patterns to characterize and classify the response of grape must to oxidation.

Reduction of herbaceous aromas by wine lactic acid bacteria mediated degradation of volatile aldehydes

Consumers typically prefer wines with floral and fruity aromas over those presenting green-pepper, vegetal or herbaceous notes. Pyrazines have been identified as causatives for herbaceous notes in wines, especially Bordeaux reds. However, pyrazines are not universally responsible for herbaceousness, and several other wine volatile compounds are known to produce distinct vegetal/herbaceous aromas in wines. Specifically, volatile aldehydes elicit sensations of herbaceousness or grassiness and have been described in wines well above their perception thresholds.

Glutathione content evolution during spontaneous alcoholic fermentations of Sangiovese grapes

Glutathione is a tripeptide (γ-Glu-Cys-Gly), which can occur in grapes, in must and in wine prevalently in the reduced form as well as in the oxidized form as glutathione disulfide. The importance of the reduced form of glutathione lies in its antioxidant activity. In must, it limits browning by reducing o-quinones produced by polyphenol oxidase activity on hydroxycinnamic acids; in wine, it exerts a protective effect on various aromatic compounds. Glutathione concentration in wine is lower than in grape juice and variable as it depends on several factors, ranging from the native content of grapes to winemaking technique.

Ellagitannins and flavano-ellagitannins: concentration ranges in different areas and sensory evaluation

C-Glucosidic ellagitannins, which are the main polyphenolic compounds in oak heartwood, are extracted by wine during aging in oak barrels. Although such maturing of alcoholic beverages in oak barrels is a multi-centennial practice, very little is known on the impact of these ellagitannins on the organoleptic properties of red wine. The objectives of the present investigation were (i) to isolate oak ellagitannins and to hemisynthesize some made-in-wine flavano-ellagitannins, such as acutissimin A; (ii) to analyse their concentration ranges depending on the cultivar area and (iii) to evaluate their sensory impact on the basis of their human threshold concentrations and dose/response relationships in different types of solutions.

Spontaneous fermentation dynamics of indigenous yeast populations and their effect on the sensory properties of Riesling

Varietal Riesling aroma relies strongly on the formation and liberation of bound aroma compounds. Floral monoterpenes, green C6-alcohols, fruity C13-norisoprenoids and spicy volatile phenols are predominantly bound to disaccharides, which are produced and stored in the grape berry during berry maturation. Grape processing aims to extract maximum amount of the precursors from the berry skin to increase the potential for a strong varietal aroma in the wine. Subsequent yeast selection plays an important part in this process.