Evaluation of aroma characteristics in Vitis amurensis grapes across different regions by using HS-SPME-GC/MS

Viticulture’s adaptation to the harmful effects of climate change is globally the biggest challenge of the near future. Short, extremely intensive rainfalls and longer periods of drought are getting more frequent in the Tokaj Wine Region, where the majority of the vineyards are cultivated on steep slopes. Hence, erosion has high risk, especially when combined with the loess-based soils on about ten percent of the region. The environmentally beneficial cover crop and mulch usage can effectively reduce the risk of erosion, according to research done by the Tokaj Wine Region Research Institute of Viticulture and Oenology.

Vine water status is one of the most influential factors in grape vigor, yield, and quality (Ojeda et al., 2002; Guilpart et al., 2014). Severe water deficits during the first stage of crop development (bud break to fruit set) impact yield in the current year and the following year. While during grape ripening, water availability impacts berry size, grape composition, and health status. Therefore, a correct assessment of plant water status allows for proper water management with an impact on grape yield and composition (McClymont et al, 2012; Pereyra et al., 2022).

Wildfires are becoming more common in many areas of the world that are also associated with wine grape production, especially the Pacific northwest United States, Australia and even some areas of France.

Globalisation and climate change have radically transformed world wine production upsetting the established order of wine ecologies. Ecological risks and the future of traditional agricultural systems are widely debated in anthropology, but very little is understood of the particular challenges posed by climate change to viticulture which is seen by many as the canary in the coalmine of global agriculture. Moreover, wine as a globalised embedded commodity provides a particularly telling example for the study of climate change having already attracted early scientific attention. Studies of climate change in viticulture have focused primarily on the production of systematic models of adaptation and vulnerability, while the human and cultural factors, which are key to adaptation and sustainable futures, are largely missing. Climate experts have been unanimous in recognising the urgent need for a better understanding of the complex dynamics that shape how climate change is experienced and responded to by human systems. Yet this call has not yet been addressed. Climate ethnography, coined by the anthropologist Susan Crate (2011), aims to bridge this growing disjuncture between climate science and everyday life through the exploration of the social meaning of climate change. It seeks to investigate the confrontation of its social salience in different locations and under different environmental guises (Goodman 2018: 340). By understanding how wine producers make sense of the world (and the environment) and act in it, it proposes to focus on the co-production of interdisciplinary knowledge by identifying and foreshadowing problems (Goodman 2018: 342; Goodman & Marshall 2018). It seeks to offer an original, transformative and contrasted perspective to climate change scenarios by investigating human agency -individual or collective- in all its social, political and cultural diversity. An anthropological approach founded on detailed ethnographies of wine production is ideally placed to address economic, social and cultural disruptions caused by the emergence of these new environmental challenges. Indeed, the community of experts in environmental change have recently called for research that will encompass the human dimension and for more broad-based, integrated through interdisciplinarity, useful knowledge (Castree & al 2014). My paper seeks to engage with climate ethnography and discuss what it brings to the study of wine environmental futures while exploring the limitations of the anthropological environmental approach.

Dans une approche globale, nous proposons la définition suivante du zonage : “représentation cartographique associée à une sectorisation du territoire en zones unitaires homogènes à partir de facteurs discriminants établis sur la base d’indicateurs quantifiables et d’avis d’experts”. La première application de cette méthode a porté sur la caractérisation du terroir en liaison avec les aspects qualitatifs des vins. Il est également possible d’envisager d’appliquer cette démarche dans les stratégies environnementales et paysagères liées aux approches territoriales et aux pratiques viticoles. Cette méthode peut servir de base dans la mise en œuvre des outils financiers associés aux mesures environnementales (CTE, aides spécifiques).