The importance of soil and geology in tasting terroir; a case history from the Willamette valley, Oregon

Mousy off-flavor is one of the defects of microbial origin in wine. It is described as a particularly unpleasant defect reminiscent of rodent urine (a “dirty mouse cage”), and grilled foods such as popcorn, rice, crackers, and bread crust. Prior to the 2010s, mousiness was very uncommon but it has been becoming more frequent in recent years. It is often associated with an increase in pH as well as certain oenological practices, which tend to significantly decrease the use of sulfur dioxide.

Les effets de l’état hydrique et de l’alimentation en azote sur le potentiel aromatique des raisins de Sauvignon blanc ont été mesurés sur des vignobles du Bordelais. Les déficits hydriques ont été caractérisés par le potentiel tige déterminé en milieu de journée ΨTmin)­. L’alimentation en azote a été étudiée à partir d’une zone carencée en azote. Une part de cette zone a été supplémentée avec de l’azote minéral.

Young white wines are typically released to the market a few months after harvest, to be consumed within a year, when their fresh fruity aromas are still dominant and appealing to modern consumers. Esters, particularly higher alcohol acetates (HAAs) and ethyl esters of fatty acids (EEFAs), play a central role in the fruity expression of young white wines [1]. However, these esters are known to undergo significant hydrolysis during the first months of aging [1, 2].

Measurements of parameters spatialy positionned, with on line sensors mounted on classical machinery or airborne imagery is no more a problem in viticulture. In a short time, high resolution data dedicated to the assessment of the vine characteristics, the soil, the harvest, etc. will become a reality.

The characterization of the plant is the obliged pathway between the environment and the product. The responses of the plant amplify or reduce the variations of the environment, while determining directly the type and the quality of the products. These results are inscribed inside the Viticultural Terroir Unit (VTU). VTU is the complex interaction between the Basic Terroir Unit or BTU (interaction mesoclimate x soil/subsoil), the genotype (variety x rootstock), the management system, the oenological technologies. Thus, at the most complex level, a global biological triptych is found again : environment (source) x plant (structure) = produced and exchanged substances.