The pyramidal organization of AOC in France: a process of identification and valorisation of terroirs

In this audio recording of the IVES science meeting 2022, Gonzaga Santesteban (Department of Agronomy, Biotechnology and Food Science, Public University of Navarra (UPNA), Pamplona, Navarra, Spain) speaks about cover crops in viticulture. This presentation is based on 2 original articles accessible for free on OENO One.

Le concept AOC permet, par une délimitation précise, la mise en valeur de terroirs particulièrement adaptés à la viticulture. Seuls les terroirs ainsi identifiés peuvent produire des vins portant le nom de l’AOC. Le nom de cette AOC ne peut être utilisé que pour des vins issus de terroirs compris dans l’aire d’appellation, sous peine de sanctions pénales. La délimitation ainsi opérée participe à la protection du nom de l’AOC. A l’inverse, le terroir délimité n’est pas protégé.

ln 1997, twenty six cultivation sites of cv. Muscat of Alexandria different for pedological conditions, altitude and exposition were selected through ail Pantelleria isle. ln each site, described and classified according to USDA Soil Taxonony and FAO Soil Classification methods, grapes, collected at technological ripening, were microvinificated, following a standard procedure which allowed to obtain the naturally sweet wine DOC Moscato di Pantelleria. Wines, five months after vinification, were analysed by gaschromatography.

The objective of the present work is to assess yeast effects on the development of wine varietal aroma throughout aging and on wine longevity.

Three independent experiments were carried out; two fermenting semi-synthetic musts fortified with polyphenols and aroma precursors extracted from Tempranillo (1) or Albariño (2) grapes and with synthetic precursors of polyfunctional mercaptans (PFMs), and a third in which a must, mixture of 6 different grape varieties was used. In all cases, fermentations were carried out by different Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains and one S. kudriavzevii, and the obtained wines were further submitted to anoxic accelerated aging to reproduce bottle aging. The volatile profile of the wines was analyzed using several chromatographic procedures, in order to provide a comprehensive evaluation of wine aroma. Aroma compounds analyzed included fermentation volatile metabolites, grape-derived aroma compounds including PFMs, and Strecker aldehydes (SA).

Results revealed that the effects of yeast on wine aroma throughout its self-life extend along three main axes:

1. A direct or indirect action on primary varietal aroma and on its evolution during wine
aging.

2. The direct production of SA during fermentation and/or their delayed formation by producing the required reagents (amino acids + dicarbonyls) for Strecker degradation
during anoxic aging.

3. Producing acids (leucidic, branched acids) precursors to fruity esters. More specifically, and leaving aside the infrequent de novo formation, the action of the different strains of yeast on primary varietal aroma takes four different forms:

1.- Speeding the hydrolysis of aroma precursors, which leads to early aroma formation without changing the amount of aroma formed. In the case of labile molecules, such as linalool, the enhancement of young wine aroma implies a short-living wine. 2.- Metabolizing the aroma precursor, reducing the amounts of aroma formed, which can be of advantage for negative aroma compounds, such as TDN or guaiacol; 3.- Transforming grape components into aroma precursors, increasing the amounts of aroma formed, as for ethyl cinnamate, leucidic acid or vinylphenols; 4.- Forming reactive species such as vinylphenols able to destroy varietal polyfunctional mercaptans.

Overall, it can be concluded that the yeast carrying alcoholic fermentation not only influences fermentative wine aroma but also affects to the wine varietal aroma, to its evolution during aging and to the development of oxidative off-odors

In the Bordeaux vineyards, press wine represents approximately 15% of the total volume of wine produced[1]. Valuing this large volume of wine is necessary from an economic point of view, but also because of their organoleptic contribution to the blend, and their contribution to the construction of wines for laying down. Therefore, this study was developed considering the lack of recent scientific knowledge on the composition of red press wines. The aim of this study is to establish an initial assessment of their chemical composition including aromatic compounds and a phenolic part.