Un jour, l’AOD (Appellation d’Origine viticole Durable), fusion de l’origine et de la durabilité

In Burgundy, a climat has nothing to do with the weather but accurately designates a named vine plot, often centuries-old, which produces a singular wine. This wine is the combination of history, the natural environment (relief, type of soil, exposure to the sun), a grape variety and know-how going back thousands of years. The grapes of each climat are harvested separately and the wine is made from a single grape variety and has a unique name featured on the bottle. Romanée conti, clos de vougeot, montrachet, musigny, corton…

Following the latest oiv global report (april 26, 2024), the prevailing perception of wine consumption finds itself undergoing one of its most challenging adjustments. It’s plausible to anticipate a shift in the scope of pdo wines towards more human-centered products (wells and stiefel, 2019), necessitating the entire sector to adapt strategies to public interest patterns (touzeau, 2010: 17-31). Previously, a dominant notion of cultural property underscored the value of wine regions; the primary interest revolved around estate owners and retailers, along with vigneron tales.

The notion of «terroir» refers to the link between the composition, quality and taste of a wine, on the one hand, and its place of origin, on the other. It involves, among other things, the signature of soil elements, as well as the influence of climatic conditions and plant material used. The composition of the wine is also influenced by the winemaking, storage and bottling processes. We were lucky enough to have a time series of the same champagne, from the end of the first world war to the present. On this exceptional time series, we followed, with the most advanced methods, all the elemental signatures by isotopic multi-dilution, the evolution of the isotopic ratios of heavy elements with very high precision of Sr, Pb, B and Cu.

The French vine selection partners network is currently made up of 40 regional partners, grouped around IFV (French Institute for Vine and Wine) and INRAE (national research institute for agriculture and environment), whose missions are preservation, selection, and innovation of our varietal diversity. The originality of this device is based on a 3-level organisation: – varietal diversity preservation, with the world reference: the INRAE’s vine genetics resources centre of Vassal-Montpellier (Marseillan, France), the world’s largest ampelographic collection, which includes nearly 6 000 accessions of cultivated Vitis vinifera from 54 countries, as well as rootstocks, interspecific hybrids, wild vines (lambrusques) and wild American and Asian species.

In April 2024, the French official catalog includes 449 grape varieties and rootstocks. In 10 years it has been enriched with 70 varieties. It is an indisputable marker of the interest of professionals in genetic resources of all origins and the expectations they have to prepare the viticulture of the future. The scientific community has now put all irons in the fire and is not neglecting any avenue of adaptation. The regular decline in the use of phytosanitary products and the already marked effects of climate change are the targets of varietal improvement.