From the “climats de Bourgogne” to the terroir in bottles

The jurist feels like an intruder when talking about terroirs. He looks at the press and tries to understand. We can read there about the cooking festival of May 30, 1996 which “..highlights products whose quality depends on a region”, that Camembert du pays d’Auge is the only one to be protected, I was thinking of camembert from Normandy, that 80% of Greek feta is made in the Netherlands, I thought it was in Denmark, and that the European Community protects geographical indications of IGP origin, probably a new category replacing the indications protected areas (1). I also learned that distributors are asking for more local products because “they come to confuse the cards in the part engaged with the big brands”. Carrefour has its “Terroirs and drawers”, Prisunic its “Vent d’Ouest”, Intermarché “Les bouquets du terroir”, Monoprix “Les terroirs de France” (2), Promodés and its brand “Reflets de France” for the “Continent” hypermarkets (3). At the same time it is asserted that “The term is a mere common noun. Unprotectable and therefore unprotected” (4).

Climate change has numerous detrimental consequences and creates new challenges for viticulture around the world. Transitory or constant high temperatures frequently associated with an excess of sunlight (UV) can cause a variety of physiological disorders, such as sunburn. Diverse environmental factors and the plant’s response mechanisms to stress determine the symptoms. Grapevine berry sunburn leads to a drastic reduction in yield, and may eventually decline berry quality. Consequently, this poses a significant risk to the winegrowers.

The creation of disease-resistant varieties adapted to climate change is a key challenge for the future of the wine industry. At present, the selection of these new varieties is essentially based on screening for genetic markers of resistance and agronomic criteria, due to the small number of vines available per genotype. Integrating screening for oenological criteria into the early stages of selection would speed up this process.

Yeast assimilable nitrogen (YAN) in the grape must is a key variable for wine quality as a source of aroma precursors. In a situation of YAN deficiency, a foliar urea application upon the vine at veraison enhances YAN concentration and facilitates must fermentation. In 2013, Agroscope investigated the impact of leaf-fruit ratio on the nitrogen (N) assimilation and partitioning in grapevine Vitis vinifera cv. Chasselas following foliar-urea application with the aim of improving its efficiency on the YAN concentration.

Elemental sulfur is commonly used in vineyards as a fungicide to prevent diseases and protect grapevines.1 The challenges of climate change are intensifying disease pressure, further increasing the reliance on sulfur use. Understanding the range of potential impacts of residual sulfur during the winemaking process is becoming increasingly important.