Kimmeridgian age in Chablis: a geological argument for the social building of a terroir

Glutathione is a natural tripeptide composed of l-glutamate, l-cysteine and glycine, found in various foods and beverages. In particular, glutathione can be found in its reduced (GSH) or oxidized form (GSSG) in must, wine or yeasts¹. Numerous studies have highlighted the importance of GSH in wine quality and aging potential². During winemaking, especially during aging on lees, GSH helps prevent the harmful effects of oxidation on the aroma of the wine³. Nevertheless, the amounts of GSH/GSSG present in wine lees are often unknown and the choice of operating conditions (quantity of lees and aging time) remains empirical.

Bases on oxoluminescence, we have developed an innovative device for measuring dissolved oxygen in wines in barrels without opening the bung. This system is directly inserted into the wood during the barrel elaboration and can be positioned at different locations of the barrel (the head, the hull …). During two successive vintages we have used this device notably to follow the oxygen dissolved of whites wines elaborated in barrels. This allowed us initially to monitor the oxygen levels of the harvest to bottling the whole elaboration process in barrels of white wines without using techniques of measurement suitable to modify the real values in wines (opening the bung to plunge an oximeter).

In response to increasing societal demands for environmentally-friendly viticulture, winegrowers are adapting their cultivation techniques, particularly by reducing the use of herbicides.

Terroir is not only a geographical site, but it is a more complex concept able to express the “collective knowledge of the interactions” between the environment and the vines mediated through human action and “providing distinctive characteristics” to the final product (OIV 2010). It is often treated and accepted as a “black box”, in which the relationships between wine and its origin have not been clearly explained. Nevertheless, it is well known that terroir expression is strongly dependent on the physical environment, and in particular on the interaction between soil-plant and atmosphere system, which influences the grapevine responses, grapes composition and wine quality. The Terroir studying and mapping are based on viticultural zoning procedures, obtained with different levels of know-how, at different spatial and temporal scales, empiricism and complexity in the description of involved bio-physical processes, and integrating or not the multidisciplinary nature of the terroir. The scientific understanding of the mechanisms ruling both the vineyard variability and the quality of grapes is one of the most important scientific focuses of terroir research. In fact, this know-how is crucial for supporting the analysis of climate change impacts on terroir resilience, identifying new promised lands for viticulture, and driving vineyard management toward a target oenological goal. In this contribution, an overview of the last findings in terroir studies and approaches will be shown with special attention to the terroir resilience analysis to climate change, facing the use and abuse of terroir concept and new technology able to support it and identifying the terroir zones.

Sustainability is becoming an increasingly present challenge, whether due to an increase in the level of perception and demand from consumers and stakeholders or the rise of events linked to climate change, which directly impacts agricultural-based sectors such as the vine and wine industry.