Terroir 2012 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Pinot noir: an endemic or a flexible variety?

Pinot noir: an endemic or a flexible variety?

Abstract

Pinot noir has its historical roots in Burgundy and is generally considered as an endemic vine variety which means that its adaptation is very specific to this environment and that its wines are the most expressive in the same particular situations. Now, Pinot noir has become an international variety because growers rely on its exceptional œnological potential and reputation to reproduce something excellent under their own conditions, and also because the general style of the wines is original and dominated by ‘finesse’ which is a new trend on the international wine market. In that context, it is interesting to evaluate the ability Pinot noir has to adapt, either as a vine variety interacting in a first time with the climate which is the entrance door to the terroir,, or as a wine in terms of ‘typicity’ and specific elements revealed by sensory analysis.

The method which is used is a survey of some sensory analysis of Pinot noir wines around the world done by the authors, which is based, first on the characterization of the degree of maturation on the main trend called ‘fruity unfolding’ (from non mature, to fresh, then mature, dried, jam or cooked fruit), second on the identification of some very specific elements such as general balance (acidity) or particular fruits (wild cherry) or elements of the ‘derived series’ (floral, spicy, mineral, balsamic, mushroom characters…).

The main analysis concerns the type of macro/meso-climate in relation to the wine ‘typicity’. The interest of the study is that wines are produced under a maximum range of situations. Some Burgundy terroirs under Semi-Continental climate being references and considered as able to produce some exceptional wines, the following climates are chosen: Continental (Cosne s/Loire, Alsace, Franconia, Valais), Continental Semi-Arid (Gansu), Cool – Mountain (Eastern Pyrénées – Hautes vallées), Cool (North Oregon, Australia – Victoria), Temperate – Cool (Loir et Cher, New Zealand – Malborough), Temperate (Friuli,), Mediterranean – Temperate (High Languedoc, Penedes, California – Monterey), Mediterranean – Mountain Kosovo), Mediterranean (Languedoc plain), Mediterranean – Semi-Arid (Mendoza-Tupungato), Subtropical (Carmelo – Uruguay), Subequatorial – High Altitude (Boyaca– Colombia).
The results show that:

Pinot noir can be cultivated and produce quality wines under many climates within the range of 1700-2300 °C; days of Huglin’s Heliothermal Index, which gives some security in front of the climate change.

The type of adaptation of Pinot noir depends on the elements of the wine ‘typicity’: it may be considered as ‘flexible’ because it reproduces very often on a wide range of climates the sensory characteristics of ‘fruity-cherry’ and ‘balance/elegance’; it may be considered as ‘endemic’ because it expresses a lot of specific sensory characters which depend on the ‘viticultural terroir’ (perception of acidity, wild cherry, artemisia, violet, mild spices, leather, truffle, chocolate, degree of excellence…).
That study needs to be deepened in the fields of micro-Climatology, .sensory analysis, grape berry Biochemistry.

DOI:

Publication date: October 1, 2020

Issue: Terroir 2012

Type: Article

Authors

Alain CARBONNEAU (1), Robert BOIDRON (2)

(1) Professor of Viticulture of Montpellier SupAgro, IHEV bâtiment 28, 2 place Viala, 34060 Montpellier cedex
(2) Honorary Director of ENTAV, ‘La Rochette’, 71960 La Roche Vineuse

Contact the author

Keywords

Pinot noir, Burgundy, world climates, adaptation, wine sensory analysis,’typicity’

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2012

Citation

Related articles…

The Shield4Grape project to improve the sustainability of European viticulture

Grapevine (vitis spp.) Is one of the major and most economically important fruit crops worldwide. Unlike other cropping systems, viticulture has ancient historical connections with the development of human culture and with the socio-cultural background of grape-growing areas. The vitis genus is characterised by high levels of genetic diversity, as result of natural genetic mutations, which are common in grapevines and further assisted by ongoing vegetative propagation.

Isolated Antarctic soil yeasts with fermentative capacity with potential use in the wine industry

The wine industry is currently on the search for new aromas and less browning in their products. In the improvement process of wine, lower fermentation temperatures have been considered, however, the yeasts in the market cannot tolerate such temperatures

Frost risk projections in a changing climate are highly sensitive in time and space to frost modelling approaches

Late spring frost is a major challenge for various winegrowing regions across the world, its occurrence often leading to important yield losses and/or plant failure. Despite a significant increase in minimum temperatures worldwide, the spatial and temporal evolution of spring frost risk under a warmer climate remains largely uncertain. Recent projections of spring frost risk for viticulture in Europe throughout the 21st century show that its evolution strongly depends on the model approach used to simulate budburst. Furthermore, the frost damage modelling methods used in these projections are usually not assessed through comparison to field observations and/or frost damage reports.
The present study aims at comparing frost risk projections simulated using six spring frost models based on two approaches: a) models considering a fixed damage threshold after the predicted budburst date (e.g BRIN, Smoothed-Utah, Growing Degree Days, Fenovitis) and b) models considering a dynamic frost sensitivity threshold based on the predicted grapevine winter/spring dehardening process (e.g. Ferguson model). The capability of each model to simulate an actual frost event for the Vitis vinifera cv. Chadonnay B was previously assessed by comparing simulated cold thermal stress to reports of events with frost damage in Chablis, the northernmost winegrowing region of Burgundy. Models exhibited scores of κ > 0.65 when reproducing the frost/non-frost damage years and an accuracy ranging from 0.82 to 0.90.
Spring frost risk projections throughout the 21st century were performed for all winegrowing subregions of Bourgogne-Franche-Comté under two CMIP5 concentration pathways (4.5 and 8.5) using statistically downscaled 8×8 km daily air temperature and humidity of 13 climate models. Contrasting results with region-specific spring frost risk trends were observed. Three out of five models show a decrease in the frequency of frost years across the whole study area while the other two show an increase that is more or less pronounced depending on winegrowing subregion. Our findings indicate that the lack of accuracy in grapevine budburst and dehardening models makes climate projections of spring frost risk highly uncertain for grapevine cultivation regions.

Cover crops competition for water in vineyards: case studies in mediterranean terroirs

Vineyard cover cropping is a cultural practice widely used in many of the world’s winegrowing regions being one of the most recommended practices to face climate changes and to promote vineyard environmental sustainability.

Sensory definition of green aroma concept in red French wines. Evidence for the contribution of novel volatile markers

The aromatic complexity of a wine results from the perception of the association of volatile molecules and each aroma can be categorized into different families. The “green” aromas family in red wines has retained our attention by its close link with the fruity perception. In that study, the “green” olfactory concept of red wines was considered through a strategy combining both sensory analysis and hyphenated chromatographic techniques including HPLC and MDGC (Multidimensional Gas Chromatography). The aromatic space of this concept was specified by lexical generation through a free association task on 22 selected wines by a panel of wine experts. Then, 70 French red wines were scored on the basis of the intensity of their “green” and “fruity” attributes.