Terroir 2012 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 On the meaning of looking for terroir perceptions in blind tastings

On the meaning of looking for terroir perceptions in blind tastings

Abstract

If one considers as “physical or sensory attributes” of a wine its concentrations of alcohol and of other substances, it can be stated that another class of attributes exists, which can be called “metaphysical attributes”, mainly linked to feelings ignited by terroir information. Therefore, wine consumers can be divided in two categories: a) the common consumer, who drinks wine as a hedonistic experience, focusing in the physical attributes (taste, aroma, texture); b) the wine lover, who, besides asking for these basic pleasures, longs for metaphysical or spiritual information, which comes along with data on the production region, its traditions and landscape, the vineyard, winemaking methods and culture, and on the winemaker’s persona. All these metaphysical information are lost in blind tastings, where, primarily, the physical attributes are sensed.

Measurements of chemicals in wines from different terroirs tend to indicate that typicity can be detected; nevertheless, variations in vintage, clones, assemblages, and methods give variability even to terroir wines. In a blind tasting, the eventual identification of terroir characteristics makes a call to the memory, which is not an exact recorder This work reports results from 30 blind tasting sessions, focused on wines from dozens of viticultural regions; it reports also results from seven non-blind tastings of handcrafted wines from the same producer, performed in the winery, as reported in the media. Results show that, even in panels of veteran tasters, terroir attributes are heavily lost in blind tastings; however, reports from non-blind tastings are remarkably focused in a few descriptors. It is concluded that perception of the terroir component, and so, the terroir value, is deeply linked to knowledge of metaphysical attributes, being, nevertheless, consistent from a sensorial perspective.

DOI:

Publication date: October 1, 2020

Issue: Terroir 2012

Type: Article

Authors

Jorge DUCATI (1,2), Vilmar BETTÚ (3)

(1) Centro Estadual de Pesquisas em Sensoriamento Remoto e Meteorologia, Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Sul, Av. Bento Gonçalves 9500, Porto Alegre, Brazil
(2) Sociedade Brasileira dos Amigos do Vinho – Regional Sul, Rua Liberdade 120, Porto Alegre, Brazil
(3) Reliquiæ Vini, Estrada do Sabor, Estrada Geral Sao Gabriel, Garibaldi, Brazil

Contact the author

Keywords

wine attributes, sensory perception, taste of place

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2012

Citation

Related articles…

2018 updates on the agronomic performances of fungus resistant wine grapes in Trentino (Italy)

On the market there are several wine grapes which are tolerant to the main fungal diseases. These varieties, commonly defined “resistant”, were developed in the grapevine breeding programs carried out mainly in Germany, France, Hungary and Italy. Some of these cultivars have been included in the national catalogues of wine grape varieties and have sometimes been allowed for specific kinds of wine. The VEVIR project, aimed at the enological evaluation of resistant vines, involves 33 cultivars achieved at the State Institute for Viticulture Freiburg in Germany, the Research Institute of Viticulture and Enology Pecs in Hungary and the Fondazione Edmund Mach S. Michele all’Adige (FEM) in Italy.

Anthocyanin profile is differentially affected by high temperature, elevated CO2 and water deficit in Tempranillo (Vitis vinifera L.) clones

Anthocyanin potential of grape berries is an important quality factor in wine production. Anthocyanin concentration and profile differ among varieties but it also depends on the environmental conditions, which are expected to be greatly modified by climate change in the future. These modifications may significantly modify the biochemical composition of berries at harvest, and thus wine typicity. Among the diverse approaches proposed to reduce the potential negative effects that climate change may have on grape quality, genetic diversity among clones can represent a source of potential candidates to select better adapted plant material for future climatic conditions. The effects of individual and combined factors associated to climate change (increase of temperature, rise of air CO2 concentration and water deficit) on the anthocyanin profile of different clones of Tempranillo that differ in the length of their reproductive cycle were studied. The aim was to highlight those clones more adapted to maintain specific Tempranillo typicity in the future. Fruit-bearing cuttings were grown in controlled conditions under two temperatures (ambient temperature versus ambient temperature + 4ºC), two CO2 levels (400 ppm versus 700 ppm) and two water regimes (well-watered versus water deficit), both in combination or independently, in order to simulate future climate change scenarios. Elevated temperature increased anthocyanin acylation, whereas elevated CO2 and water deficit favoured the accumulation of malvidin derivatives, as well as the acylation and tri-hydroxylation level of anthocyanins. Although the changes in anthocyanin profile observed followed a common pattern among clones, such impact of environmental conditions was especially noticeable in one of the most widely distributed Tempranillo clones, the accession RJ43.

The effects of cover cropping systems on vine physiology, berry and wine quality in a climate change scenario in Switzerland

Sustainable weed control with little detrimental effects on vine physiology, yield, berry quality, soil structure, health and biodiversity is a key factor in vineyard management. Few options are available to avoid herbicide utilization and minimize negative effects of frequent tillage on soil quality. The present project aims to investigate and develop different cover management strategies in a cool climate viticultural region in Switzerland. The impact of different treatments on vine, must and wine has been studied in an experimental vineyard in Changins, Switzerland for one year and will be continued over the next three years.

La valorisation des Terroirs Viticoles par les Indications géographiques et les appellations d’origine

Le sujet proposé dans le thème “l’environnement juridique” est plus économique que juridique, et constitue une sorte de complément au sujet qui l’a précédé : analyse des marchés, stratégies commerciales et terroirs”.

Soil Temperature and Climate Change: Implications for Mediterranean Vineyards 

More frequent and extreme temperatures and droughts pose challenges to the wine sector in Mediterranean Europe. Soil is crucial to sustain the equilibrium of ecosystems, economic growth and people’s prosperity worldwide. In viticulture, soils are a major component of the terroir and do influence vine’s growth, yield and berry composition. Soil temperature (ST) affects soil´s physical, chemical and biological processes and also crop growth. The impact of ST becomes even stronger when dealing with row crops such as grapevine, when considering the increased exposition to radiation. However, the impact of ST on crop performance remains poorly described, especially for extreme climatic conditions.