Terroir 2020 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 International Terroir Conferences 9 Terroir 2020 9 History and innovation of terroir 9 In search of the taste of terroir – a challenge for sensory science

In search of the taste of terroir – a challenge for sensory science

Abstract

The definition of terroir has evolved throughout history, from something clearly negative in the XVIth-XVIIIth century to a complex multi-parametric construct with positive connotations but also with many scientific unknowns. Terroir has always been linked more or less explicitly to the sensory properties of the resulting products.

Wine consumers have little access to objective terroir information and even if they had, it would be very difficult for them to interpret in terms of wine quality. In Europe, the proxy for terroir is the Protected Designations of Origin (PDO) system, which is what consumers have come to know. According to INAO “It is the notion of soil (terroir) that is the basis of the concept of Appellations d’origine” and results in a product with original and typical features.

From a cognitive point of view, terroir-based and other wine sensory categories have been approached from prototype categorization theory, according to which categories are stored in long-term memory as prototypes. The prototype would be abstracted from the instances of the category during previous tastings and shared between experts. The prototype is highly typical of the category and serves as reference to categorize new items. Such categories are based on family resemblance (instances from the same category share more features then instances from different categories) and are organized according to a typicality gradient.

The main sensory methods used to explore the structure of wine sensory categories are typically ratings and sorting tasks combined with descriptive analysis. The sensory studies dealing with PDO-based categories are scarce. Globally, the results suggest that PDO-based categories are quite difficult to distinguish sensorially. A possible explanation is that high within-category variability makes it difficult to pinpoint a prototype and yields quite fuzzy borders.

DOI:

Publication date: March 19, 2021

Issue: Terroir 2020

Type: Video

Authors

Jordi Ballester1,2*

Centre des Sciences du Goût et de l’Alimentation, AgroSup Dijon, CNRS, INRA, Université Bourgogne – Franche-Comté, F-21000 Dijon, France.
IUVV Jules Guyot, Université de Bourgogne, 1 rue Claude Ladrey, 21078 Dijon, France.

Contact the author

Keywords

Terroir, PDO, typicality, expert panel, sensory concept

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2020

Citation

Related articles…

Antifungal and Laccase-Suppressing Activity of Phenolic Compounds and Their Oxidation Products on Grey Mold-Fungus Botrytis cinerea

Botrytis cinerea causes grey mold that results in severe problems for wine makers worldwide. Infected grapes lead to quality deterioration including formation of off-flavors or browning. The latter is caused by the enzyme laccase which is capable of oxidizing a wide range of phenolic compounds. Since the use of conventional pesticides is associated with many concerns of consumers and authorities regarding environmental and health related issues and may result in fungicide resistance, the development of green alternatives is gaining more attention.

The Shield4Grape project to improve the sustainability of European viticulture

Grapevine (vitis spp.) Is one of the major and most economically important fruit crops worldwide. Unlike other cropping systems, viticulture has ancient historical connections with the development of human culture and with the socio-cultural background of grape-growing areas. The vitis genus is characterised by high levels of genetic diversity, as result of natural genetic mutations, which are common in grapevines and further assisted by ongoing vegetative propagation.

Comparative proteomic analysis of wines made from Botrytis cinerea infected and healthy grapes reveal interesting parallels to the gushing phenomenon in sparkling wine

In addition to aroma compounds also protein composition strongly influences the quality of wines. Proteins of wine derive mainly from the plant Vitis vinifera and may be influenced by abiotic stress as well as fermentation conditions or fining. Additionally, fungal infections can affect the protein content as well by introducing fungal proteins or affecting grape protein composition. An infection of the vine with the plant pathogenic fungus Botrytis (B.) cinerea was shown to cause a degradation of proteins in the resulting wine. Moreover, it influences the foaming properties in sparkling wine.

Old but gold: the interest for minor grapevine varieties – a case study in the Veneto region (Italy)

The biodiversity of cultivated vines has been significantly reduced due to a series of factors that have favoured the cultivation of a limited number of varieties and clones over time. In veneto, since 1980, a series of important actions have been implemented to counter this process. These actions have focused on the conservation of germplasm identified in the territory and the recovery of varieties historically present in the region, which were in danger of being abandoned and disappearing.

Establishment of a geodatabase ‘for the characterization of the viticultural “terroirs” of “canton de Vaud” (Switzerland)

La caractérisation objective des terroirs viticoles est nécessaire pour mieux comprendre les relations existantes entre les sols, la plante et la qualité de la production vinicole. Dans le cadre d’une recherche sur les terroirs viticoles du canton de Vaud – Suisse, un géorépertoire pédologique et agronomique a été conçu et réalisé.