Chemical boundaries of wine identity: rationalizing grape and wine aroma diversity for improved terroir management

In this video recording of the IVES science meeting 2025, Jordi Ballester (Centre des sciences du goût et de l’alimentation, CNRS, INRAE, Institut Agro, Université Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, Dijon, France) and María-Pilar Sáenz-Navajas (Instituto de Ciencias de la Vid y el Vino (ICVV) (CSIC-UR-GR), La Rioja, Spain) speak about the concept of natural wine. This presentation is based on an original article accessible for free on OENO One.

Color is a key quality trait for grape berry and the producing wines. Berry color of red genotypes is mainly determined by the quantity and composition of anthocyanins accumulated in the skin and/or pulp. Both genetic and environmental factors could influence the quantity and composition of anthocyanins, while the underlying mechanisms are not fully clear. To explore the mechanisms underlying the diversity of anthocyanin accumulation in grape berry, we compared two grapevine genotypes showing distinct sensitivities to ABA-induced anthocyanin biosynthesis, where one genotype showed minor responses to exogenous ABA application while the other showed significant increase in anthocyanins after exogenous ABA application.

The quality of wines has often been associated with their geographical area of production. The aim of this work was to characterize Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) Xinomavro red wines from different geographical areas of Amyndeon and Naoussa in Northern Greece, elaborated with variables that contribute to their differentiation, such as soil characteristics, altitude, monthly average temperature and rainfall.
Xinomavro fruit parcels from different vineyards within the two PDO zones (5 PDO Naoussa and 6 PDO Amyndeon) were vinified following a standard winemaking process. A total of 25 aroma compounds were quantified using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) with simultaneous full scan and selected ion monitoring for data recording, and odor activity values (OAVs) were determined.

Cis-acting regulatory elements are DNA sequences that can be bound by transcription factors to regulate the expression of genes in a condition-dependent and tissue-specific way. It is nowadays possible to search for DNA motives and sequences that a given transcription factor is binding or at least can, but it is still hard to have a glance at all the transcription factors that are contemporaneously located at the same locus. Inspired by an existing technique that uses the CRISPR-Cas system in mammal cells, we are trying to develop a protocol to study such regulation in Vitis vinifera. Using the highly sequence-specific binding capacity of a catalytically inactive Cas9 protein (dCas9), our idea is to set up a system to target a desired sequence and precipitate all the crosslinked proteins and distantly interacting chromatin at this locus and analyze them.

Quantity and quality of flavonoïds in grape berries are important parts of their global quality. Several studies had shown that tannins are responsible for some major flavour properties of red wines such as colour, bitterness and astringency. Nevertheless, their synthesis and properties are still misunderstood. Some studies had suggested that the tannic pool was set before veraison. Thus, the comprehension of the relations between environment and setting of this tannic pool, up to the harvest, is not sufficient.