Terroir or Tūrangawaewae? Expressing sense of place in an emerging New Zealand wine region

Atypical aging (ATA) is a white wine fault characterized by the appearance of notes of wet rag, acacia blossoms and naphthalene, along with the vanishing of varietal aromas. 2-aminoacetophenone (AAP) – a degradation compound of indole-3-acetic acid (IAA) – is regarded as the main sensorial and chemical marker responsible for this defect. About the origin of ATA, a stress reaction occurring in the vineyard has been looked as the leading cause of this defect. Agronomic, climatic and pedological factors are the main triggers and among them, drought stress seems to play a crucial role.[1]

Wine is at risk of being labelled as a dangerous health product, based on studies that focus on its alcohol content. However, multiple studies suggest that moderate consumption is healthy. Changing the focus from health impacts to the environmental and socioeconomic impacts that wine companies cause, what can be said?

Variations in average growing season and ripening season temperatures within the Walla Walla Valley American Viticultural Area are related to elevation and regional and local topography.

According to winemakers, wine experts and sommeliers, aromas of wet stone, mineral, struck match and flint in white wines styles, such as those produced from Vitis vinifera L. cv. Chardonnay, are considered to be hallmarks of positive reduction.1,2 In recent years, the production of Chardonnay styles defined by aroma characteristics related to positive reduction has become more desirable among wine experts and consumers. The chemical basis of positive reduction is thought to originate from the concentration of specific volatile sulfur compounds (VSCs), including methanethiol (MeSH) imparting mineral and chalk notes,3 and benzenemethanethiol (BMT) responsible for struck match and flint.1,4

Esca is a grapevine vascular disease with detrimental consequences on vineyard yield and longevity. Recently, esca leaf symptom development has been shown to result in the occlusion of xylem vessels by tyloses in leaves and stems, leading to hydraulic failure. However, little is known regarding the response of xylem anatomy and stem growth to esca in different varieties . Here we studied the impact of esca leaf symptom development on grapevine physiology, stem growth, and xylem anatomy in two widespread cultivars, Cabernet sauvignon and Sauvignon blanc.