Terroir or Tūrangawaewae? Expressing sense of place in an emerging New Zealand wine region

The evolution of wine quality issues is historically expressed by the passage from wine quality (what is a wine?) to wine quality (what is a good wine?). Perhaps the next question could be: what is a good sustainable wine? To contribute to reflection on this theme, it may be worthwhile to undertake an exercise in prospective fiction, which we have identified in the hypothesis of the AOD, the “appellation d’origine durable”, a scenario we will develop in the light of developments in the wine industry and the regulation on geographical indications.

The concept of terroir is defined by a set of natural and human factors. On the slopy vineyards of the Burgundian « Côte », the « Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) » spread out according to the slope in their order of quality : « AOC Grand Cru » at the top, « AOC Premier Cru » and « AOC Village » and « Bourgogne » on the piemont. In order to correlate the hierarchy of the vintages with the evolution of the topographic and pedological criteria, two toposequences were studied, in Gevrey Chambertin (« Côte de Nuits ») and Aloxe Corton (« Côte de Beaune »).

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In the current context of global climate change, anticipating the evolution of the oenological potential of emblematic grape varieties of regions such as Burgundy and Champagne is a guarantee of the sustainability of a sector which has considerable economic weight. however, if various models of climate change cast doubt on the sustainability of these grape varieties in these regions, appellation decrees, as well as consumer expectations, do not allow or consider the use of alternative grape varieties. In addition, control/compensation methods such as irrigation are also not permitted.

The presence of acetic acid bacteria in wine can lead to the appearance of acetic acid at concentrations above the perception threshold, causing the wine rejection by the consumer. During the winemaking process, avoiding the presence of acetic acid bacteria is very difficult, as there is always a residual population accompanying the wine[1], and the problem arises with the significant development of these microorganisms that metabolizes large amounts of acetic acid.
The concern of wineries to control the presence of acetic acid bacteria in wines during their conservation is due to the absence of simple and effective analyses that allow the detection of these microorganisms in the initial stages.