Terroir 2020 banner
IVES 9 IVES Conference Series 9 Have the best Bordeaux wines been drunk already? A reflection on the transient nature of terroir, using case study Australia

Have the best Bordeaux wines been drunk already? A reflection on the transient nature of terroir, using case study Australia

Abstract

Aim:  The aim of this paper is to demonstrate that the meaning of terroir should be regarded as transient. This is because climate, one of the principal components of terroir, is changing with time, and can no longer be assumed to be constant with fluctuations about a mean. This is due to the climate crisis.

Methods and Results: The paper reviewed a very recent climate modelling study of Australian grape growing regions (GI’s) especially for temperature. It included Mean Growing Season Temperatures (MSGT) for the present period (1997-2017) and two in the future, (2041-2061) and (2081-2100). The results were in line with several previous projections indicating warming and drying trends over the period. Present hot inland regions will be the most affected. Literature references indicated similar trends elsewhere in the world including traditional vineyard regions of Europe.

Conclusions: 

Results of the climate modelling for Australia and the rest of the world suggest the need for adaptive responses as the terroir changes. This will require changes to variety or of the region. The transition will be easier for presently cool regions than for presently hot ones, as more potential varieties are available. Some currently hot regions may become unsuitable for wine production. There is evidence that the optimum temperature conditions for present varieties in regions like Bordeaux have already been surpassed by climate change.

Significance and Impact of the Study: There is limited evidence to date that global wine firms recognise the scale of this problem and are planning to adapt. A good outcome would be that the world wine map might be redrawn, to feature some new regions and new varieties in existing regions. A bad outcome would be associated with failure to acknowledge or address the impending crisis.

DOI:

Publication date: March 25, 2021

Issue: Terroir 2020

Type: Article

Authors

Richard Smart*

Smart Viticulture, Greenvale, Victoria, Australia

Contact the author

Keywords

Climate change, terroir, temperature

Tags

IVES Conference Series | Terroir 2020

Citation

Related articles…

Climate change projections to support the transition to climate-smart viticulture

The Earth’s system is undergoing major changes through a wide range of spatial and temporal scales as a response to growing anthropogenic radiative forcing, which is pushing the whole system far beyond its natural variability. Sources of greenhouse gases largely exceed their sinks, thus leading to a strengthened greenhouse effect. More energy is thereby being supplied to the system, with inevitable shifts in climatic patterns and weather regimes. Over the last decades, these modifications have been manifested in the full statistical distributions of the atmospheric variables, with dramatic changes in the frequency and intensity of extremes. Natural hazards, such as severe droughts, floods, forest fires, or heatwaves, are being triggered by extreme atmospheric events worldwide, thus threatening human activities. Viticultculture is not only exposed to changing climates but is also highly vulnerable, as grapevine phenology and physiological development are strongly controlled by atmospheric conditions. Therefore, the assessment of climate change projections for a given region is critical for climate change adaptation and risk reduction in viticulture. By adopting timely and suitable measures, the future sustainability and resiliency of the sector can be fostered. Climate-grapevine chain modelling is an essential tool for better planning and management. However, the accuracy of the resulting projections is limited by many uncertainties that must be duly taken into account when transferring knowledge to stakeholders and decision-makers. Climate-smart viticulture will comprise ensembles of locally tuned strategies, envisioning both adaptation and mitigation, assisted by emerging technologies and decision-support systems.

Physiological response to drought and heat stress in the leaves of table grape varieties

Increasingly pronounced climate changes, including prolonged drought periods, pose a significant challenge to the cultivation of table grape varieties.

First large-scale study of thiol precursor distribution in red grape berry compartments and implications for thiol-type red wine production

Climate change and the growing need to reduce the use of phytosanitary products demand the exploration of disease-resistant grape varieties and/or adapted to drought conditions.

Rootstock impact on foliar symptom expression of esca on Vitis vinifera cv. Cabernet-Sauvignon

Trunk diseases and esca in particular, represent a major threat to the sustainability of the vineyards. The percentages of unproductive vines in a plot could vary from 4% to over 20 % depending on local conditions and vintages.

Climate and mesoclimate zonification in the Miño valley (Galicia, NW Spain)

Galicia est une région située dans le Nord-Ouest de l’Espagne avec une longe tradition de culture de la vigne. A jour d’oui la vigne occupe en Galicia presque 28.500 ha, desquelles 8.100 correspondent aux 5 zones ayant droit à l’appellation DO (« Denominación de Origen ») équivalent aux AOC françaises.