Have the best Bordeaux wines been drunk already? A reflection on the transient nature of terroir, using case study Australia

a) wine, a qualitative and user-friendly product, favors a visual support, even for a scientific study because it refers to the image of the terroir, in particular by its visible landscape. b) the vineyard landscape, which is fairly open by definition, favors this type of approach. c) the framework of the Terroir Test conducted by the URVV (INRA – Angers) comprises 15 micro-plots of 100 strains, and requires at this scale precise surveys of the environment, hence systematic shots, of the center of the plot, over 360°, at 50 mm intervals, at 1.70 m from the ground and horizontally.

Trends already extended for more than 12 years show a decline in both consumption and international trade, particularly in volume. However, there are also positive signs in several categories of wine, segments and markets, as well as a better trend in terms of value. How are these trends affecting wine producers and distributors? Are they short or long term? do they mean radical and permanent changes to which a way of adaptation has to be found or are they just temporary changes that may only require some calm? How are companies adapting to these new trends? Which are their effects on wine regions?

Genetic variants known to produce single residue missense mutations have been associated with phenotypic traits of commercial interest in grapevine. This is the case of the K284N substitution in VviDXS1 associated with muscat aroma, or the R197L in VviAGL11 causing stenospermocarpic seedless grapes. The impact of such mutations on protein structure, stability, dynamics, interactions, or functional mechanism can be studied by computational methods, including our pyDock scoring, previously developed. For this, knowledge on the 3D structure of the protein and its complexes with other proteins and biomolecules is required, but such knowledge is not available for virtually none of the proteins and complexes in grapevine.

The notion of «terroir» refers to the link between the composition, quality and taste of a wine, on the one hand, and its place of origin, on the other. It involves, among other things, the signature of soil elements, as well as the influence of climatic conditions and plant material used. The composition of the wine is also influenced by the winemaking, storage and bottling processes. We were lucky enough to have a time series of the same champagne, from the end of the first world war to the present. On this exceptional time series, we followed, with the most advanced methods, all the elemental signatures by isotopic multi-dilution, the evolution of the isotopic ratios of heavy elements with very high precision of Sr, Pb, B and Cu.

The postharvest dehydration of grapes is a traditional practice to obtain wines with unique traits (e.g., sweet, dry/reinforced).