Analysis of climate spatio-temporal variability in the Conegliano-Valdobbiadene DOCG wine district

Abstract
Wildfires are an increasing concern for wine-producing regions worldwide, as they generate smoke containing volatile organic compounds that can be transported over long distances and can be absorbed by wine grapes [1].

Global warming is accelerating grape ripening, leading to unbalanced wines from fruit with high sugar content but poor aroma and colour development. Reducing the size of the photosynthetic apparatus after veraison has been shown to delay technological ripeness in cool climates, but methods have not been tested in areas with high irradiance and temperature where fruit exposure could have disastrous effects on berry composition. In this Cabernet-Sauvignon trial, we compared the application of an antitranspirant (pinolene), to severe canopy topping and above bunch zone leaf removal, all performed at mid-ripening, with an untouched control. We monitored the vines weekly by measuring stem water potential, gas exchange, fruit zone light exposure. We sampled berries to measure berry weight, total soluble solids, pH, titratable acidity, and the anthocyanin profile. At harvest, we assessed yield components, measured carbon isotope discrimination, rated sunburn on clusters, and produced experimental wines. We submitted harvest samples to metabolomic profiling through PFP-Q Exactive MS/MS and wines to sensory analysis. Application of the antitranspirant significantly reduced stomatal conductance and assimilation rate but did not affect the stem water potential. Inversely, leaf removal and topping increased water potential but did not affect leaf gas exchange. The late topping was the only treatment able to decrease sugar content (up to 2Bx), increase titratable acidity and pH, and improve anthocyanin content because of lower degradation of di-hydroxylated forms. Late leaf removal above the bunch zone increased lightning conditions in the canopy and produced the most significant damage on fruits. Yield components were not affected. This work suggests that late-season canopy management can effectively control ripening speeds and improve grapes and wines. Still, the effect on grape exposure in a critical time must be well balanced to avoid problems with the appropriate technique.

Several winemaking operations, such as filtration, pumping, and racking, are known to potentially facilitate the incorporation of atmospheric O2 into the wine. Control of grape must oxidation is one key aspect in the management of white wine aroma expression, color stability and shelf-life extension. On the one hand, controlled must oxidation may help to remove highly reactive phenolic compounds, which otherwise could contribute to premature oxidation. And on the other hand, in certain cases of extreme protection of the must from O2 (e.g. pressing under inert atmosphere), it can help to preserve varietal aromas and natural must antioxidants.

Winemaking grapes contain a diverse array of non-volatile precursors that become noticeable only after hydrolysis reactions or molecular rearrangements, during which aroma compounds are generated and released [1]. Among these, glycosidic precursors are the most abundant and play a key role in the development of wine aroma [2].

The hill Somló looks like a huge island wich jumps out of the see, a few kilometers away from the slope of Bakony highland and on the edge of the Hungarian small plane.